Seahag1978

Just returned from the dealership. '05 all silver turbo, 5 speed... nice car. Going on the web for a little ammunition for negotiations. Wish me luck!

This could be a good time to do this... car sales are non-existent around here this time of the year. I did see Subafreak's... I was impressed with it, and they really like it. I haven't spoken to a dealer for a couple of years, so they may have been knocked off their high horse. The way they talked, it was the best thing since sliced bread and they would sell them as fast as they got'em in. I'll take a major hit on my Hyundai for sure... I get hit now or later...no time is a "good" time to trade a Hyundai. OUCH! I think I might take a ride. I'll let you know.

I was just going to have him contact you... you're within a couple hours of the car. Well, as long as there aren't any blizzards that day (moment)! LOL!

I agree, I wish I were closer to them, we're as far away from each other as can be without getting our feet wet. I have bought parts from Lithia... they are very nice to deal with! They ship too!

The computer system takes a while to get on the right track. It sees mileage only. I was being sent service advisories for a car I traded in... then the computer updated itself and is right on now. I just wish I could get it to send the reminder notices to my home rather than my work. It's only because it's the last address the computer saw... it's where they sent a mobile unit to replace a windshield?! Ahhh. computers... ya gotta love 'em

Godspeed to you!

I have been wanting a Baja since I saw one a few years back. I have a '78 Brat and an '04 Hyundai Elantra GT. When they first came out, the dealers were completely rude, like they were doing me a favor by selling it to me, "Well, we only have a few and don't expect any more soon.", and so on... you get the picture. Now, for the people who have had them a while... what has been your primary use? The reason I ask is directly related to buying a used one, I would never buy a used WRX for instance (beat factor). Do you have any complaints as far as service, parts availability? Are any out of warranty yet? If so, repair expense? Any input would be appreciated! Thanks! Mary

Ohhhhhh, are you putting that beautiful, awesome, perfect, gorgeous, cherry, pristine shifter knob in as a prize? j/k

Ahhhhh, that explains why your selling posts in the marketplace are reminiscent of a carnival hawker! Could it be something in the water?

A screwdriver at the very least... don't leave home without it! Way back, I was driving a GL-10 that had a few quirks. I had jury duty and security took my screwdriver, lest I wreak havoc with in the courtroom?! We got out late because of deliberations and security was closed so no screw driver... by the grace of God it started that night!

I might be wrong, but ask Moosens, he may have one. I remember something about him and a Brat tank that was for sale? I tried getting one from my local dealership and it took one month before I was informed they aren't available anymore. Mine wasn't really leaking it was a little vent line that's on the top front of the tank that you can't see until you pull the tank. The line was broken off at the tank and when the gas expanded it leaked out.

Hi Jerry, I'll check that before changing out the booster... this stalling thing is making me crazy! It drives great, power, everything you'd ever want in a '78 When I drive, I go into neutral and brake when I'm going to stop, (stalls). When I take a tight corner, I drop into neutral, brake to slow, (near stall here) then I clutch and grab a gear when I accelerate. If it's a tight turn and the space is confined, the braking may be longer and it will stall. Any braking over 10-15 seconds while driving, causes a stall. Does this make any sense?

You're first mistake was assuming that the "mechanics" at the Subaru dealerships are familiar with Subarus... they are familiar with diagnostic computers... and if the computer can't give them the answer, then there is none. The members of this board know the answers... just explain in good detail... they'll figure it out! Believe me on that! Good luck! Mary

My 78 Brat idles and runs great until I brake... then it stalls while driving ad brake to a stop or if I step on the brake while parked. It has been suggested that I have an internal vacuum leak in my brake booster. I have found a used brake booster but think maybe I should get a new one? I have searched every parts place and have come up empty. What now? Any substitute? Thanks! Mary

Yikes! Those posts are scary! I'll add one here. My boyfriend Tim took his F-350 diesel to the dealer for the "complimentary" oil change offered on a new truck purchase. Filter wasn't tightened properly... vibration of the diesel engine... no, he didn't lose it all, but... you can imagine what 15 quarts of oil on the driveway would look like!

In Massachusetts, I don't know of any rules regarding engine swaps, they don't check that at all. We do have a strict Lemon Law and the only safe way to sell a used car to a private party is to declare it as "parts only" on the bill of sale. It's the only protection the seller has when selling $100 POS. I have never seen anyone have a hassle registering a "parts only" car. All vehicles must be titled to the tune of $50. We also have excise tax $25.00 per $1,000. of value. We have to register and insure EVERY vehicle, whether it's driven or not, within 10 days of taking possession. If you retire a vehicle, it's illegal to keep an unregistered vehicle for more than 30 days, even on private property. We are exempt from any emissions once a vehicle is 15 years or older. Newer vehicles are tested every other year for emissions. There is a safety inspection for all years, every year. Glass must be intact with no cracks, wipers, horn, lights (no broken lenses), e-brake, tires (tread must come to the top of Lincoln's head on a penny), front end suspension: tie rods, control arms, ball joints, no sharp edges on the body, no holes in the body that could cause exhaust to enter the vehicle. Seat belts, only if original equipment.

Oh, that's just "forced acclimation" to foul weather, it's usually when they decide to act up the most

We had planned on towing the Brat down in May, it would be fun to meet you all. I spent some time reading the posts on the Carlisle forum to get a feel for the area/fairgrounds. I'm going to pass on it... renting a trailer, fuel, hotel, food, admissions and so on... seems a bit pricey. We have 2 large shows locally... $8.00 includes car and driver, $5.00 for spectators. They have the same amenities, car corral, live auction, vendors etc. Why the huge difference in costs? Yikes! We also have local weekly shows Tues. Wed. Thurs. that are free for participants and spectators. The weekly shows are fun because the cars range from perfect restorations to just-hauled-it-out-of-the-field wrecks... no competitions. Just people who love cars getting together.

Congrats! It's a good feeling!

Tim guesses you aligned the piston oil rings instead of offsetting them?

I saw one stop moving completely... mismatched tires on dry pavement. Also, don't try to engage or disengage your 4WD while cornering, your wheels must be straight.

I can't post what Tim calls mine... I'd get tossed off the board... it changes with the level of frustration... one thing is for sure... he always incorporates the words, "lemon" and "yellow" into the phrase

It does it when I step on the brake while idling when parked and while driving and actually braking to stop. So yes, it could be a vacuum leak in the brake booster, we never changed those lines. There was a restriction in the linkage which we cleared. The accelerator was also not returning properly, we fixed that too. The rattle is a mystery yet. Now here's a really strange thing it's doing. It idles fine with the breather off, as soon as you move the breather to within one inch of the throat of the carb it has a drastic drop in rpm's. This drop happens with the can lid OFF, so there's no air restriction happening. We disconnected the hose that goes to the black cap thing (what IS that for?!) on the snorkel and it improves the weirdness, but the idle needs to be set very high in order to to compensate for the drop when the breather is put back on.

Today, checked and replaced all the vacuum lines. Replaced the voltage regulator. The accessories are all functioning better. Checked all the fuses. Checked all the plug wires, (the "mechanic" didn't have them in right, they were barely on there). Tested the fuel pump, it's shooting gas (about a mile). The fuel filter near the tank isn't there, someone must have removed it? He set the idle a bit higher than it should be. So, now it runs with all the accessories, heat, lights, radio, wipers on, but when I step on the brake I get a definite drop in idle, almost to stall, and a kind of hollow, dull metallic rattle under the hood, near the steering column, like something's loose. It idles great and then starts racing without touching anything. I tried to kick down the idle and it didn't help. Leave it be for a few minutes and it kicks down itself. A few minutes later it starts racing again. This is happening when it's warmed to temperature, it was warm here today... well above freezing. It seems the most reliable when the engine is still cold... once warmed it goes weird. Any clues?

Tim said you got the beer icon right... he said, "That ^&%$# junk will drive me to drinkin'!"