tboned

I agree with oleman77. the engine comes out really quick. you don't even have to take the hood off. (if you're me haha) just push the hood all the way back. I think the whole thing is just 4 bolts to the bell housing and 2 engine mounts, aside from disconnecting the electrical, and the rad hoses. shouldn't take more than an hour if it's your first time.

^^^^ I think you may have been right about the coolant thing. I managed to fix that. The engine was missing, this was remedied with new spark plug wires. Now I'm on to figuring out the abnormally high draw coming from the electric fan on the radiator, which causes the engine to die when it kicks on. Also noticed the coil and the fuse for the ignition was really really hot. Would anyone happen to have the wiring diagrams for this motor?

you don't need to use any sealer on the oil pump when re-installing it, just the proper gasket. this link is to a manual i found extremely useful when i was rebuilding my ea81. i think you may find it invaluable as well. http://www.scribd.com/doc/24542568/How-to-Keep-Your-Subaru-Alive

gaskets are brand new and the manifold is torqued down nicely, at least i think it is. is there a specific torque they need to be?

valve lash was set up before the engine was re installed. I've fiddled around with the timing and it didn't seem to make a significant difference. It seems to run a bit better with some advance, but like I said before, 1k~900 rpm is about the best I can get out of it before it dies. I also sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the intake manifold and played around with the vacuum lines a bit because I thought maybe there was excess air getting down in there from somewhere. Still no improvement Here's the project I'm working on by the way! all new tires put on last week. the wheel you see on the ground is part of a set of 4 which I'm willing to part with if anyone is interested

i'm having a bit of trouble getting the motor dialed in. the motor was just rebuilt fully, had the valves and seats re-cut, has a brand new carburetor and all that good stuff. engine starts up without any trouble. but once it's running, it dies when i try to bring the idle down below 900 or so. poking around the engine i noticed that cyl 1 and 3 are running quite lean. but on the flip side cyl 2 and 4 are running quite rich. at this point i'm pretty stumped. anyone have any experience with this or insight as to what may be going on?

so... do you spray paint another oil filter every time you change the oil? or did you do a whole batch of them all at once? lol

daaaaaaaaaaaamn that's pretty.

damn i love your car. i wish i could find one of these...

The 4wd is gone because the previous owner did mostly highway driving. The fwd 5 speeds have a higher top speed and is much better on gas. I'm flip flopping between going back to 4wd or going full ej swap with a modern awd system

1979 Brat with an ea81 and a fwd-only 5 speed. Picked it up for 800 bucks last month and drove it home. It has NO rust (ok a little surface rust here and there hehe) He also gave me a truck-bed load of spare parts for it including 2 of the 'offroad tires'. I got another 2 of them at the junkyard so as soon as I get all 4 painted the same color we'll be good to go! > Big plans for the little truck! *ahem* car!

UPDATE!!! Used a much thicker gasket to seal the carb to the intake manifold better and that solved the lean running. but now i can't get the idle down under 1500 revs even with the fuel screw all the way in and the idle screw not even touching the throttle. i managed to get it down to 1200, but when i take it around the block it wants to die as soon as i get on the clutch.

plugged the hole. now the idle is much more smooth, but it is still a pain to get it just to fire. spark plugs are clean and i adjusted the valves about a week ago. when cranking the engine over, sometimes it'll sound like it's about to start so i let off the starter. the engine coughs and that's the end of that. the engine is still dying at idle. maybe i got the gap on one of the valves wrong? now i would really rather just go buy a weber and be done with this. but i still need to smog this sucker, and a smog guy will fail the visual if he sees a weby. also i'm partially motivated to keep with this carby because it seems to still be usable and it would be nice to keep the motor's equipment as original as possible.

I'm having trouble with a carby to an ea81 (hitachi). The sucker does NOT want to idle on it's own and sounds as though it wasn't getting enough fuel. I've checked the fuel filter, it's not clogged. The fuel pump is pumping like a champ, the jets are clean enough to eat with and the float is fine as well. The choke also appears to be functioning as it should. Now I'm looking at vacuum lines and they are all going where they go but I found a rogue port on the carb that doesn't seem to go anywhere (pictured) Does anyone know where this one goes? all the vacuum lines seem to be in use so I have no clue what to hook it up to. Can it be blocked off? P.S. the timing and valves are also adjusted nicely and the motor has great throttle response when it's warmed up. it just wants to die if i allow it to drop below 1500 rpm. Any help or .02 cents is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!