Xadamx1

Well, I did my test the way Fairtax4me described, only to find the drain is a max of 18.4 mA so, it could have been a stuck switch that we unstuck when we were trying to test the wrong way. But now everything seems to be okay on that front. However when I had the Subaru dealer in Palm bay replace my engine they broke the green plug that goes into the alternator, and then gave it back to me. I had to get it towed back up there a week later because of that plug and they just glued it back together. Now the plug has fallen apart completely and is not glue able at this time. But anyway. Thank you for the helpful suggestions all of you! I wish I knew who was right.

Yes, I do, I have disconnected everything I could for those systems no change. Thats what I thought too. I disconnected both the main charge wire and the smaller green connector, no change. It appears I may have just wasted two days. Thank you! I am on my way to go get gator clips now.

That was actually my next thing to check as the SBF #4 fuse is for the power windows, according to the wiring diagram I found. The only power seat however is the drivers and that isnt all the way forward or back. But it is a good thought. Thanks for the response!

I have a 2002 Subaru Outback with the H-6 3.0 in it. Right now I have a battery drain that if the car sits without being started for more than a week it'll go dead. From what I can tell it is going through either the clock.room fuse or the SBF #4 fuse. I have disconnected all the radio components, the security components, the auto AC, and turned off all the interior lights, to no avail. As for the #4 fuse, i have disconnected everything except for the airbag under the steering column to try to locate the drain, still no avail. The multi meter I have will only get to 150 miliamps, and it has blown the meter a few times if I am not quick enough on my readings, does anyone else have any ideas as what to try next? I have seen a lot of topics with the same or similar issues none of them seem to offer solutions to my problem, or they are open ended. There was one that suggested a stuck CD could be causing the problem, I did have a stuck CD but that should have cut out of the equation when I took out the radio, at controller and the multi-disc changer. If anyone has any ideas I would be appreciative.

Well I was hoping for something else. I was on my way to the dealer to get it looked at and possibly a new engine, and the knocking knoise turned into a horrifying grinding noise. So I'm pretty sure she's toast. Now the question I have for you fellas is the 3.6 available for a straight swap into the car instead of a 3.0 or would I even want to do that?

At this point the only place I'm driving it to is the shop. It doesn't sound too bad but its not good. I'll take it to a mechanic on Monday and see what they say. Hopefully its under the tranny warranty. And it isn't a rod knock. I haven't been getting any codes but it could still be a rod knock, I hope not. That would probably cost more to fix then the car is worth.

It does respond, but it does not go away. It just becomes more or less frequent, seemingly matching the RPM's. It does sound like it getsa little quieter at higher RPMs but it is loudest at start.

Yes, it is an automatic, and I did infact have the transmission rebuilt a year ago at the end of the month. Could it possibly be related? And It looks like I am still within my warranty, so if it is I need to take it in soon.

Over the past two or three days my car has developed a horrendous knocking noise, similar to this video( ) except that has the H-4 engine in it. I checked the oil it is at the right level, the noise does not seem to be coming from the pulleys it seems to be further back. The noise is the loudest when starting the car. She has about 140,000 miles on her, I know the car can develop a small knocking noise when not using an OEM oil filter, so I have an OEM filter on the way to put in it and see if that helps. Anything else anyone can think of would be a world of help, I am hoping this doesn't need to turn into an engine rebuild.

Woah small world. Stuart Florida. I'm actually in Orlando now though. Yeah I've done it a few times, fixes it but it always comes back. Not sure why it keeps happening. Yeah I'm not so worried about the power steering, I know I can fix it. Ill probably have the tranny rebuilt here in the next week. The guy I'm getting it done from offered me a year warranty on parts and labor so I don't have to be too worried about it for awhile at least. Thanks for the reply's guys, I've decided just to fix it. I'm 21 so I am still on my parents insurance for now, if I were to buy any car in my name and go on my own insurance it would be insanely expensive.

Thank you for the response, yes I had the transmission serviced, still no change.

I bought a used 2002 Subaru Outback 3.0 H-6 about a year and a half ago, when I bought it there were about 118,000 miles on it. Now it has 134,000 miles on it, the transmission slips going from 2-3 estimates to get it fixed are around 3K. However there are other things that make me hesitant about getting it fixed, I can hear the air in the power steering system so there is a leak there somewhere. Also, since I bought the car it seems like the power in the car has had a significant decline, this may be related to the transmission issue, I am not sure.The interior was not very well kept when I bought it, so I am feeling like the car was neglected by its previous owner. Now it's making me wonder what else if anything is going to go wrong with this car if I do get it fixed. From what I hear the transmission in this car is supposed to be pretty strong, which makes it off that at 134,000 it has this problem.

Okay thank you guys a lot you've all been really helpful. I'm going to try ordering the OEM duplicate from rock auto (best place for parts BTW).

Hm good to know, do you have any recommended brands? Yeah that's what I figured,

You're probably right, the one I got may have the resistance set wrong for some reason. I'll try this when I get a chance. Thanks! I tried putting the old one back in, the temp gauge returned to normal but then the starting issue returned. Thats why I was wondering if I needed to calibrate the resistance or something on the new one to report correctly on the dash. Thanks for the reply! Are you saying that one day it just got the temp right? And yes the one I replaced was a three pronged unit. I believe it may be the same thing we replaced. Thanks for the reply! Yes, the needle was usually right in the middle of the gauge before replacing the unit. In all the diagrams I saw of this car I only saw one engine coolant temperature sensor though. Thanks for the reply! I do have good heat in the car, so I am not sure that is is a thermostat issue, when I got to work this morning I popped the hood and the engine was hotter than I would want to touch, granted that doesn't mean it is where it needs to be. Being that thermostats are only around 12$ I'll look into one, thanks for the reply!