stickedy

What could be another leak? Through the rust? These struts are my used ones from the car, as I said, the leakage is so small on both that the car stays in a raised position and the compressor isn't runnig all the time. This is the case for several months now... I couldn't test them until monday since I'm on an excursion tomorrow... If it's not the diaphragma and it's repairable, what's the best possibility to protect the diaphragma? Sure, I attached two images. The breach is located inside the red circle. A bit hard to see, but I couldn't manage to make a bigger picture since it's nearly dark outside. The package wasn't damaged, I didn't see the breach first, just today when I want to install it. I believe you that it was a good one, perhaps there was some rubbing in the packet on shipping? Don't know... For the sealant: If I want to try this, I guess a good place to ask would be a tyre shop?

I know, many of you told me to convert the whole mess to conventional suspension... Perhaps it would have been better. But OK, I'm working on it, so perhaps there's possible help. The conversion would be the last escape, starting on monday if there's no other possibility. I have three used rear air struts here, all of them are leaking air. One of it has a breach in the diaphragm, about 0.3 or 0.4 inch long, from which it's definitely leaking air, I checked this with soap water. The two others are also leaking, but I don't really know where. I guess it's also somewhere in the diaphragm. These two were installed in the car I drove around, there is a continous loss, but it's so few that the car raised itself and stayed raised when driving. But as soon as the car stands for about 10 minutes, all air left the struts. There rust on the struts, I will remove it and coat the strut(s) so that the diaphragm won't get damaged too soon... So, is there a chance to repair this breach(es)? I read somewhere (I guess it was on xt6.net(?) that this tool to repair damaged tyres (in spray cans) could also repair these damaged diaphragms? Will this last long? And how to connect these cans to the air struts? Some kind of adaptor will be necessary, but how and what? Yeah, many questions... I'm a bit frustrated right know Please some opinions and hints on that!

...and all the parts for fixing up my car finally arrived! And I'm the happiest guy in Germany right now! :banana: New rear brake discs new ball joints used air struts for the rear complete air condition trip computer and many other small parts And all the other parts I have already here: new front brake discs new front axles new front wheel bearings digi dash and some other things So, I have much work to do in the next days! The car must be fit for the trip to Wacken Open Air (W:A:O - http://www.wacken.com) But it will be a pleasure to fix it up completly! And I have done some body work in the last weeks, so the car will be in a really good condition again in a few days! But no thread without question: Where is this trip computer to be installed? The display is no question, but where to bold up the control panel?

Ah, OK, thanks! That really sounds easy and seems to be nearly the same procedure as in the front. I will try it on a donor car during this week.

Yesterday I discovered that on one side the boot of my rear axle is ahm more or less completly gone. Not really something to worry about, but I have to do the general inspection in November and I'm sure that the car won't pass it with this damaged boot. And since my rear air strut replacements and my brake discs will arrive soon (at least I hope so), I have to take apart the rear drivetrain in any case and so I want to replace the rear axle completly since there I have at least six ones still mounted in various older donor cars. So, but what's the easiest way to remove them? It's no question in the front, I have done that a couple of times, but in the rear? On the donor cars, I could remove the rear diff since it has to be removed any way sometimes, but I want to make myself as little work as possible on my daily driver. So, any good ideas and comments? As I said, the air struts and the brake discs have to be changed, too.

If you love that car that much, just keep it!! Otherwise you will regret it sooner as you think of. Rust is repairable, almost always and it can be done step by step. And yeah I also believe that at least some cars have souls. My 1989 Leone/Loyale shows that signs, too: It's reliable like hell - like any other Subaru I know - and I never really have any concers that it will break down or something like that. But I know one girl - many describe her as insane :-\ - who really wasn't good for me (but that's another three year long story) and almost every time I picked her up last year, there were some issues with the car. Any other time everything was fine, but as soon as she was in the car, something happened (ignition coil failed, alternator failed, starting troubles and so on). It was really unbelievable... As it wants to protect me. Or my car is a girl and she was just jealous of her. Who knows...

This how-to at least applies to the ECUs of the EA82 engines with MPFI (Turbo and non-Turbo) when the fuel pump doesn't run and the fuel pump, the relay and the cables are OK. But of course I give no warranty that it will solve your problem! You should only work on electronic devices if you know what you are doing! And please check every other possible malfunction before working on the ECU To describe the back story in some words: I purchased a very cheap 1993 Loyale in summer 2006 which has a damaged ECU because the previous owner somehow managed to confuse the two battery poles. So the the ECU seemed to work but the engine didn't start. After getting the car home with another ECU, I made some research in June 2007 to fix up this damaged ECU. Look at this thread how things proceed: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76466. It seems that the circuit for powering on the fuel pump is some weak point of the electronic design and seems to fail quite often. If your engine won't start anymore, you can easily check if it's related to the fuel pump: Just put the two green test connectors together and switch on the ignition. The ECU is now in some kind of test mode and it switches the fuel pump continuously on and off in a short intervall. You should easily hear the pump kicking in and out. If you don't hear it, then your start problems are most likely related to the fuel pump (if the starter kicks in at all when you try it). So there are mainly four possibilities: 1. The fuel pump itself is broken 2. The fuel pump relay is broken 3. The electric circuits for the fuel pump are somehow damaged 4. The electronic inside the ECU is damaged. So, if you test or replace the first three points and the fuel pump still doesn't work, then it's most likely a damaged ECU. You can check it by replacing it with a known good one, if the fuel pump then runs, it's the ECU. And this is most likely repairable since the electronic design is from the 80ies and therefore it's very simple and you can fix most things with basic electronic and soldering knowledge. 1. You have to open the ECU by removing the eight screws, which most likely are very tight. 2. Search for the transistor Q701 (look at the picture above, it's the one with the red circle). Q701 is a preamplifier for Q702 which controls the fuel pump. 3. Check if the transistor Q701 is working. If you know how to do it, just do it, if you don't know, search someone who knows or search the internet for instructions. It's not really difficult if you have a electric meter and some electronic knowledge. 4. If the transistor is damaged, replace it. Since this NPN transistor is original a NEC 2SC2719 and this one isn't any more in production, you should use another type with the same ot better technical datas (look at this datasheet for informations about 2SC2719: http://www.datasheetarchive.com/datasheet.php?article=3746501) as replacement. A BD139 will work great and because this is a very common type, it's very cheap (about 50 US Cent in Germany). It's produced by many companies, e.g. TI, STM, Siemens, Motorola, Fairchild and others. Look here for some datasheets of BD139: http://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=BD139 If the transistor Q701 seems to work, then you could check Q702, but I guess this one won't be damaged that easily. If it's indeed damaged, replace it with a proper type (not BD139!!). If Q701 and Q702 aren't damaged at all, you could have a look at the other electronic components of the fuel pump circuit or just replace the ECU. 5. After replacing the transistor, put everything back together and make a test if the fuel pump now works (the green connectors, remember?). If it kicks in and out, disconnect the green connectors and try starting the engine! Congratuluations if it's running now!!! If it's not running, then there is another malfunction, but at least the fuel pump now works again... I attached a ZIP file with all datasheets and the picture. ECU repair.zip

Of course: It's Q701! I forgot to mention it... I made the article: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76906 I hope this will help other people, too

So, my buddy managed to solve the problem! This Transistor was damaged: It's original a NPN transistor, type NEC 2SC2719, and this type isn't in production any more since several years. But you can just use a more common type with the same or better technical datas, so my buddy choosed a BD139 as replacement. This is a very standard type and available from nearly every semiconductor company, for example Texas Instruments, STM, Motorola/Freescale, Fairchild, Siemens, Philips and so on. Here are a few datasheets for BD139: http://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=BD139 Anf here is a document which describes the original one: http://www.datasheetarchive.com/datasheet.php?article=3746501 As you can see, the BD139 is far better, but because it's such a common part, it's really cheap. One piece cost about 0.50 US$ here in Germany. The replacement is easy, you can do it with basic soldering knowledge. So, the ECU now works fine as it should! I write an article for the USRM in within the next hours! AND: My problems regarding acceleration are gone!! So it seems that the ECUs interchangeable to some degree and the engine should run, but it runs bad. The test drive was a real pleasure

A badge? I'm a bot confused about the meaning. Something like a decal or label? How is it related to the intake?

Some of my buddies and myself had the idea to make something real crazy before our 30. birthday, something you only make one time in your life. Following the idea of "The Mongol Rally" we had the idea to start a journey to Ulanbaataar (Ulan Bator) in Mongolia with a somewhat older car (Subaru Sambar, called Libero in Germany), to cross several exotic countries on our way there and back and to write a lot of reports and articles. And of course to take a lot of photos. And we want to do all this during the trip as live blog. Another exciting thing is total solar eclipse which takes place there on 08/01/2008, about which we also want ro report, if it's possible live. So, there's the rub: We don't have much money, at least not enough to pay everything. Therefore we are searching for sponsors, which will help uns with money or with donations/loans so that we can do this journey. And after the journey we will put up all the remaining equipment to internet auction and donate the proceeds, because we really don't want to enrich ourselves. I actually just want to hear some opinions, some guestbook entries would be nice and of course some steady visiting of the page to watch the progress of our project. And perhaps there is some who wants to help us in some way? The homepage of our project: http://www.mongolei2008.de (There's an english translation for most parts of the website!)

I'm a bit confused about this and will check it soemtimes....

Yeah, exactly this way it will work fine!

Some minor update: Q600 and Q702 are both in good condition, but it seems that Q701, which is some sort of pre-amplifier of Q702 is damaged. But we couldn't confirm this yet, so stay tuned

To give an update: My buddy at Lear took the wohl unit to work and is checking every transistor for damages and replacing them when necessary He seems to have some extra time at working and more important, he has the equipment to do the job real quick. He will start with Q702 and Q600... So, I will get some results tomorrow in the evening.

Arent't low beam and beam are engaged when using the headlamp flasher? Or don't you have that headlamp flasher in the US? Anyway, Subaru strongly advices not to use the headlamp flasher for longer than three seconds to avoid damages. I don't know if this is related to the bulbs ot to the electric wiring (it's not mentioned). I usually use the headlamp flasher in the night when driving in my home town to look for speed traps with the extra light and nothing happens to my EA82 till now, but I few months ago, I burned one fuse of my mother's Justy J10 when doing this. So, I guess it's somewhat critical for the electric system. You just have to thinks about that.

I just read this thread and had another idea: Why not just "disconnect" the power connection to the ignition system when using this switch? Every standard relay is a two-way-relay which means that an circuit is opened and the other one is closed when using the switch. When the circuit of the power windows isn't connected to the other electric systems any more, you haven't mess around with a proper diode. It also a bit better work to make switching by a relay and not directly by a simple switch I made a simple diagramm about that, not nice a far from standard electronic, but it should should show what I'm speaking about: Do you understand what I mean? In general it's related to the idea of SubaPurple, but using a relay insted of a two-way-switch. Basically, this is a good idea: It happens to me from time to time that the windows are down and the car is already off (and the key is in my pocket already) so that I have to power on the ignition one again to raise the windows... Perhaps I will make also this modification when I install my other speakers to the amplifier under the passenger seat.

Ah, OK, I misunderstood you on that point! I will make more checks this afternoon. Perhaps I will make a circuit diagramm if I find some good tool for it. But now I have to repair my WLAN-Internet connection first

I checked it, Q702 is the one which switches the ground of the fuel pump. I hope you understand my thinking and explenation, my english is somehow limited in this area... The system is somewhat hmm strange: There is an always powered positive wire connected to the fuel pump relay which is switched by the ECU (but this circuit can't be damaged since it is not directly connected to the positive pole of the battery. If this circuit would be damaged, there must be more damages in the electronic). From the fuel-pump relay the current is routed to the fuel pump and from it to the ECU where the ground is switched by this transisor. It's a bit odd that this ignition control for running the pump is solved outside the ECU when the pump itself is also controlled inside the ECU one more time, but OK, could be possible that this security circuit was implemented after the first design or that it's some kind of extra safety. Nonetheless: The transisor is designed to beat 7V difference between Base and Emitter and I guess with switching the polarity this difference is somehow higher and so the "switch" get destroyed. I have no other explanation. I don't know how this could happen after changing the alternator, but I guess this transistor is just one weak point of the design. The circuit should simply be protected by a diode and everything would be fine. Perhaps this was designed in another way first and inserting this fuel-pump relay changed the circuits so that there is no protection any more. OK, I have friend who worked at an electronic company (Lear Corporation) and I'm pretty sure that he can get me one piece of this transistors or some equivalent modell on monday In the meantime I could try to directly ground the circuit and bypass the transistor switch. Should be a working solution for testing... Edit: I don't really understand why JECS used this power transistor which is designed for up to 20 A and does not simply use a relay for switching the pump on and off. Especially since there is already this fuel pump relay involved. Very strange... This transistor creates a lot of heat and therefore it's connected to the metall case of the ECU so that the heat could be lead away... Here is the datasheet of the transistor.

I just mad some pictures of the eletronic inside the ECU. Just klick on the image to get a high-res version: Cougar, please have look and perhaps you remember which part was faulty. It's a pita to test all components without a circuit diagramm... @grossgary Yeah, there are coincidences all the time So let's try to solve this problem and I guess we could help many other people with a faulty ECU, too!

YEAHH! I just made some testing and installed the damaged ECU: 1. The fuel pump isn't running. I verified it with the green test connector, with my working ECU the fuel pump kicks in every few seconds, with the damaged one nothing happens! 2. I tried to start the engine - and it fired up instantly!! It just lasted for a few seconds as the pressure in the fuel line disappeared, but that's very, very good! 3. The ECU throws absolute no error codes. So, it seems just to be a burnt circuit inside the ECU which controls the fuel pump. If anyone could give me a hint on which parts I need to have a look, it would be great, otherwise I will try to find anything burnt...

Yeah, it was the same guy What an adventure: Travelling through the whole south of Germany with the train and one rucksack + one big bag full of some car parts (alternator, starter, ECU, battery... man, was it heavy ) and fixing that car up alone somewhere in the middle of nothing And the neighbours were shocked when the car moved away with its own power after standing and rusting there for at least 1.5 years... And yes, I was able to get this car home with no problem, but I noticed some kind of lacking power between about 2.500 and 4.000 RPM, but since I was using highways most the time without many hills and avoiding cities, I really didn't need to accelerate much and I believed that this was some kind of imagination or some specific problem with the car. But it runs well with about 32 mpg and over 100 mph (we are allowed to drive that speed on some parts of the highways). So I thought it was perhaps related to some other part of the car or to the missing knock sensor (which the MPFI engine is lacking and the Turbo-ECU wants it) Yeah, but now that engine is in my GL-10 (should be match the US types best) , together with that Turbo ECU because the original one isn't working, and I notice this lack of power, too. And everything is different besides the engine and the fuel pump. I installed the knock sensor some weeks ago, changed oil, spark plugs, ignition cables and ignition coil, but the problem is still there. And before getting more into this I want to rule out that it could be related to the ECU although I doubt that, but you never know... And fixing it up should be very easy if you know what part is damaged, so I really didn't search for a spare ECU... The search function isn't really helping because searching for "ECU" gets no results, I guess words with three letters are too short. Hmm, the "power problem": If you accelerate up from 1.000 rpm everything is fine until about 2.500 rpm: There you feel some kind of power loss, it feels like the car isn't getting enough fuel and it bucks a bit, but not much. The car still accelerates but slower. And starting with about 4.000 rpm, it's like a boost and runs fine again. It's not really bad if you drive normal, but it's worse when you try to climb a hill... And we have some decent ones here around And I want to fix that up together with the other parts of the car during summer. @grossgary Thanks for shipping! You indeed forget to write about it

You're not serious? These parts cost about 250+ US$ here in Germany (more than a whole car btw) and are more rare than rear break discs! Ah, and this are used ones I just live in the wrong country...

I have a damaged MPFI ECU here which was fried when the previous owner of the car confused the battery connectors... So now, the ECU seems to work, the LED is blinking and the starter cranks, but the engine won't fire on, the cause seems to be no spark, could be the fuel pump, too. I was told that the ECU is always damaged when the battery connectors are confused since it's directly and always connected to the plus pole through the fusible links for storing the fault codes (you can check this with the FSM) So, something was damaged inside the ECU but not that terrible that the basic functions aren't working anymore. But what is damaged? I have opened the whole unit and the electronic isn't that complex (as you can guess with a design of the 80ies) that you can't fix it by yourself, but without better informations or a cicuit diagram this would take some real amount of time. So, are there any in-depth informations about the ECUs? Or has anyone even find that faulty electronic component? Main cause for doing the work: ECUs are rare and expensive here in Germany and I have some kind of power problem with my non-Turbo MPFI car/engine which is now driven by a Turbo MPFI ECU which is possibly related to using the "wrong" ECU. So I want to rule that out before searching for the error...

Don't worry, I have no problem in understandig english as far as there are not too much technical terms involved. My knowledge about this car related technical terms ins somewhat limitied and I have to look often the translation. Sometimes I think I know the right translation but, but that's not true, so sometimes I get some things wrong... But "normal" english is just fine! For that connectors: I think it's better to ask in the marketplace about it, perhaps someone just parted a proper car or is in the process of doing it. These connectors are neither heavy nor very big, so shipping wouldn't be that expensive, in fact it should be cheap. If there's nobody responding, perhaps we find something to make a deal between us OK?