stickedy

I have a 1983 Leone 1800 dashboard with no damages here. It has a green light if I remeber right. Perhaps we should look at some pictures if you still need it.

Too bad :( But thanks for the answers!

Hi everyone! Is the air suspension or better der struts in the rear of EA82 and Legacy identical or are they exchangeable to each other? I ask because I could get cheap Legacy struts for my EA82T, Thanks to everyone and sorry for my english!

The distributior seems to be OK and so I just changed the ignition coil (I have enough of them ) and it seems to be working right now. I have made some test driving and everything seems to be fine. Hopefully it's really so... Thanks for your tips!

Since yesterday I have a new serious problem (after all the whole car seems to be a problem ) with my engine (EA82 carbed with manual transmission): I was driving the car down a hill (just idling, without opening the throttle) and when I was downhill,, the car dies after hitting the clutch and I wasn't firing back on. I quick-checked several easy things (ignition cables, battery) but no result. The starter works but the engine didn't fire on. So I try to start it by letting the car start rolling and it worked! So, I drive some time and the engine idles but I had problems to accelerate: When I open the throttle more than approx. quarter, there was no more acceleartion, but the tachometer jumps high and the car stutters! E.g. I was drivig 50 kmh at - let's say 2.800 RpM - and give full throttle, the tachometer jumps to 4000 RpM but the speed remains the same, no acceleration, stuttering and some misfires. So it seems that there is not enough gasoline. OK, so driving was possible in some way and because I had to do some duties, I was driving for about 35 km mostly uphill (that was no fun! 2nd gear with 2.500 - 3000 RpM) and then suddenly the car dies when driving (1st gear). So I try to start the engine and surprisingly it fires back on at once and the problem was gone! Well, not really gone, it comes back after another 40 km... This problem-there, problem-gone phenomenon repeats a couple of times. So today I checked the fuel pump and the gasoline filter (changed this one) but the problem still exists. We have also discovered that there is overpressure in the gasoline tank (that seems very weird) and that the car is dieseling when the engine is shut off. Let me summarize (when the problem is present): * The engine won't start with the starter but only by letting it role on * Sometimes it's enough when using just the starter to move the car bit and the engine fires on * When driving and giving more than quarter throttling the tachometer jumps high but there is no acceleration * There is pressure in the gasoline tank * The engine is dieseling when shutting it off * The gasoline filter was changed. And the odd thing is that the problem disappears sometimes without any noticeable change. *shrug* I have no idea left, so please help!

This is the Auxillary Air Valve (hig idle valve) for increasing air flow when the engine is cold and started. It's contolled by the coolant temperature so it's integrated in the themostat housing. If this hose is not connected properly there will some idling problems! The hose should be connected to the air intake system.

Yeah, original Subaru parts are very expensive in Germany and there are no third part suppliers because the are not many EA82 cars left. Spare parts for foreign devices are expensive in common. For example, I have looked for a drive belt of a Simplicity snowbuster. This belt costs about 8 $ in the US with shipping included, but nearly 50 US $ in Germany - without shipping. Horrible... Buying in the US would be the other option I have but it's a bit tricky since I don't have PayPal or credit card. So another person could buy it for me, but it would be a lot easier if a more common fitting radiator would exist. So I asked...

Since my radiator is in very bad condition and now summer seems to be just around the corner, I need to replace it. But a new one here in Germany costs 300 € (360 US $) or more and an used one in good condition is as rare as an EA82 without rust So, because I don't want to spend 300 € (the whole cars are sold for less), I have to look for alternatives. Are there any radiators from other cars which will fit without or just with minor modifications? The radiator will have to cool an carbed EA82 engine with manual transmission. Nothing serious or special. But in the near future an EA82T will be placed in the car, but I can look for an sufficent radiator for that Turbo in the meantime!

Has anyone a wiring diagram for the power door locks? I want to upgrade my car with a remote control for the power door locks ans therefore a wiring diagramm would be fine. Hm, but afair, there is no servomotor in the drivers side door of the car. So inserting a upgrade central locking system in this door only would make it work, right? Nevertheless, a wiring diagramm would be fine to understand the whole function.

I want to thank you one more time! I have now rewired this things and now the engine runs fine again! :cool:

Thanks! That helps me. To what are those connected? Is there some kind of control unit(s)?

On my carbed EA82 engine there are 4 wires connected to the engine. Two are for water temperature and oil pressure, but I don't know what the other two are for? They seem to be connected to the carb. Any ideas? Thanks!

Thanks for your answer! It has helped me a lot. Anyway, the engine is now running, but we have several troubles with the ignition. There was no ignition signal from the ECU, so we rebuild the whole ignition circuit of the old carbed car and wired everything together. Takes a couple of hours, but it works. We have installed the original fuel pump under the hood - also with new wires. For oil and water temperature we made a custom adapter to the MPFI connectors, they are working fine. But we have one problem left: The car fires up fine and drive is OK. But a soon as it should idle, it goes off. It will fire back on immediately, but this shouldn't be. So, this needs to be fixed. I have discovered that there are two wires going to something near ot at the carburateur, directly under the airbox. I have no idea what this or does nor how and to what it is to be wired! What is this? I guess that this could be related to the failing idleing since it isn't connected right now. Unfortunanetly I have no elcetric plans for the carbed engine... P.S.: Thank you for your great article about engine removal!!

My EA82 is a 4WD with Button and my EA82T is a fulltime 4WD. But I think this clutch question would be visible when both engines are side by side tomorrow. The electrical thing is more important...

Since my EA82T engine needs to be rebuild (head gaskets or damaged head) and I need the car for daily driving, I have to put my carbed EA82 in it from my old car. So, the engine swap itself will be no problem I think, BUT the EA82T ECU will most likely interfer with the carbed engine, particular ignition and starter I think. The ECU and all the cables should stay in place since I want to put that EA82T back in place in summer after fixing it. So there must be modifications made I guess: As far as I see it on the schematic diagramms, the ignition is controlled by the ECU. So I have to change the wirings there. Can anyone tell me how or has an idea about it? Or better: Has anyone done this engine conversion before and can say me what to do? Ah, one more question: The EA82T transmission also should stay in place, so, do I need the EA82T clutch and flywheel or will the EA82 ones work? Thanks in advance for all help!!

I'm sorry.. I was in hurry and didn't use the search function So, thanks for the link! But the problem seems to be related to something other. I haven't noticed the whole behaviour the last time so I haven't posted it yet. This things happen when I drive the car: 1. I start driving, everything seems fine. 2. After about 1 - 2 km the "check engine" light turns on. 3. In the same moment the coolant temperatur rises from about 0 to about 3/4 of the skala. 4. The Heater isn't working at all, but there is enough water in the radiator. 5. The error code of the ECU tells me "22" (knock sensor or circuit failure) So, because of the rising temperature, the non-working heater and the full radiator, I guessed that there is somehow no water circultaing in the engine and that the water pump is broken in some way. So I changed the water pump today and also checked all hoses, radiator and thermostat. Everything seems to be fine. But the problem is still existing! What could that be? Any suggestions are appreciated!

Hello! I have a problem ith my 1989 EA82T MPFI Turbo. When I drive the "Check Enigine" light went one. The diagnostic code tells me "22" = "knock sensor or circuit". When I start the engine, the check light is one, after about 20 seconds it begins to flash and the it goes off. After a few minutes off driving the light wents on again. Is this really the knock sensor? And where is it located? Thanks in advance!

Hm, I tinker everything together yesterday - the broken EA82T housing with the valve now lies above the 4 air hoses and is fixed with some wire - and made a test drive: Everything works fine now, the car idles at just below 1000 UpM when it's warmed up - seems OK to me.

Oh yeah! I just deinstalled this housing completly and I realized that this two houses and that valve (I formerly thought this was some kind of temp sensor) have nothing to do with the cooling circuit. I don't understand why they create a whole new housing instead of simply attach that valve to the old-style EA82 housing or place it anywhere else... To put two things in such way solidly together which don't need to be to together at all is some kind of crazy! Or is there some cause why this is build in that way? Anyway, I have now installed the EA82 housing and put that original housing in there, too to have that air controlled properly. That should work for now... Thanks!!

So, my thermostat on EA82T with MPFI was gone and I replaced it with a new one. So far so good, but - ugly enough - I broke the housing when I screw everything back together. So I need a new housing, but my local dealer and Subaru Germany are unable to deliver this thing in the near future But I need that car for daily driving and I don't have an alternative ready to drive with. So I have to tinker something which will work for a few kilometers! I have the thermostat housing of an older EA82 with carburator but there are two hose connectors and that sensor missing. I assume that the sensor wouldn't be so important and I could live without it for some short time. But the two hoses seem to be a problem: The first one goes from the back of the housing to the top of the engine where the air goes in. And the other one goes from the right side to the engine (I don't know how this part of the engine is called in english). I have the service manual but I really don't find the information there what this two hoses are good for. They seem to bypass the thermostat which I really don't understand Could anyone please explain the usage of this two hoses? I have the idea to install that simple EA82 housing and then insert a T-part (or "tee part"?) in the hose from the housing to the radiator and connect that two houses to this T-part. I think that should work at least for a week or so. The temperature here in Germany is at -10 to 0°C at the moment so it's cold outside and there should be no cooling problems... Has anyone a better idea or could tell me that this will work. Please help, I need that car running on monday! Thanks!

Interestint. Where is this high idle valve? I will check this tomorrow.

I have the problem with my "new" EA82T car, that the engine revolutions are between approx. 1,500 to 2000 rpm while the car is stationary. That is "a bit" too much. What could be the cause of that? Does someone have an idea?

I will do the rust thing. And I should do that before winter comes... Ähm, do you have the link do your posted thread about the cleaning? I tried the search several times, but didn't find it... Does anyone have an idea about the oilpump?

1. Very good idea! Thanks, I will buy such a thing in the next days... But if it is really that tick of death, I want to change the oil pump + gasket (and the timing belt at this opportunity). So my question: Is the oil pump of EA82T identical with EA82 or is there a difference? 2. Thanks! I just have found in this message board two PDFs with detailed technical information about the pneumatic suspension. That will help me a lot for checking or if something goes bad.

Hello! After buying and checking this 1989 EA82T SuperStation I made the decision to fix and repair that car insted of the moving the engine to my old one. So, I have two problem/questions: 1. There is loud ticking/clicking noise from the engine. is that the "tick of death" described in the online repair manual ot could that have another source/cause? 2. I have no idea of the electro-pneumatic suspension! Could anyone tell how the systems works, what could be damaged and how to check the system? Or are there any technical information available online? Thanks for help! Greetings from Germany