kingbobdole

I'll be doing it here soon... hopefully later this month... well kinda... by EZ30D car, more like a car with an EZ30D :-p

OMG really?!?! You Don't look a day over 40! Set me down for 2 tentatively. I was supposed to get my house today, but they hosed me... again... so it'll be next week. but about that time I should need a break from house stuff.

Sorry to abandon my thread.... but I'm back. The reason I didn't test drive it right away is because I ran out of time to do so. I checked the codes and got a fancy 24... Duty Solenoid C, which I had just replaced with a used unit that tested well. To CMA I testing the wring from the TCU to the harness and then pulled the rear housing off again and replaced duty solenoid C with a fancy brand spanking new one with valve body-ness. Double checked the clutches(because the guy keeps asking me about them) then the harness to solenoid wire, and resealed. Cleared out the computer and started it up, same thing. code 24, but the binding seemed worse... maybe just my head. Still with the FWD fuse, binding was gone. After poking around on identfix I decided to ditch the TCU. Got a used one from Super Rupair and installed. Much better. Code is gone and the car doesn't bind anymore...

I have your transmission! 75K miles... Came out of an '03. TCU and Torque converter included.

Your math is a bit wrong... mostly because it doesn't account for all the cylinders.... and the evap and such... it does take a lot of water to hydrolock an engine... I feed engines water all the time, but mostly I've switched to seafoam, which is also a liquid. Anyway, last time I played in water I broke my sub I had never taken the front end apart on this one before, so it was probably due anyway... Sure was fun

I know it comes and goes with acceleration... but when started, it flashes 16 times right after starting... It has a problem, I just don't know what.

So I'm working on a 1990 Legacy with 202k miles on it. It's for work, but the guy keeps having issues with it, and it never acts up for me, well almost never. He brought it in a week ago with a binding when parking/ around corners issue. He had flushed the tranny elsewhere to try and fix it, but to no avail. After a quick diag, I decided on replacing the duty solenoid C in the back of the transmission that controls the 4x4 lock-up. Problem was solved, no issues. He retuned earlier this week for a slight binding when pulling hard cookies and a flashing power light. I drove it and found it would bind and release at full lock only. After reading up some on a technicians "forum" I decided to add some tough guard ATF additive, like a limited slip stuff, but cannot recall what exactly it was. Helped tremendously, car shifted crisper and the locking was gone. I never saw the power light flash. He brought it back toady, power light was flashing 16 times, which isn't a code. Very short flashes, not long ones. He didn't complain about any drivability issues, so I'm assuming there are none. Any ideas?

+1 on the IAC having to be hooked up to the intake AFTER he MAF but before the throttle body. Deleting the PCV system is a bad idea.

Sweet... Good buy! Much nicer then my brown brat...

Still trying to wreck your daily driver? Or going for the blown tranny record?

BAH! Sure are a bunch of negative Nancys in here. They are kinda right, but kinda silly as well. Firstly, rule out the EA82T. You don't want it. If you want power or speed, and don't care about a turbo, get an EJ22 or EJ25. Easiest way into an EJ22 is to just buy a legacy, the whole car. Here in CO you can get a running driving example with a few billion miles for about $500, and it will contain most everything you'll need for the swap. You must also remember, that the hatchback is LIGHT... Very light. You will have no issues outrunning the stock legacy with the same motor. I've also hear of people cheaply boosting the stock block to about 7 psi with good results. The other option if you want more then that power is the EJ25. They are kinda prone to HG failure, and such engines in the community are rather thrown away. Makes them cheap;) I personally have a single cam version myself, great little engine, and don't let those bullies tell you you'll be buying new heads and gaskets and just don't even go there. This engine is no where near the realm of the EA82Ts junkyness, but at the same time it is no EJ22. The EJ22 makes 130 HP stock. The EJ25 has a bit of a range from 160 to 176 depending on year. The older dual cams tended to have more issues, where as the single cams are no so bad... not that it's a big deal, slap new gaskets, have the heads machined and you're set for 100k miles or more. The other other turbo option is the EJ22T. Great engine, hard to find. Unlike GD says, you can reasonably mod this engine without buying half the country's worth in parts. No engine damage really to be feared if you don't go stupid full hog. Even then the ECU will freak out and put you back in line if you try to overboost it too much. These guys are also way off the mark on prices... like they shop at the dealer for everything. IIRC I built my '88 Rx with the SOHC 2.5 for about $1500 including the price of the car. I got the engine for $400, which I have found others in the same price range. Trans, which I highly recommend the legacy or just EJ trans in general. I paid $65 on craig's list for... expect about $75-$100 at a yard. Then there was a lot of modification done to the trans mount, custom driveshaft for $80, and I swapped my rear diff for about $30. I bought a few gauges, the cheap ones, not the GD style ones , and I actually didn't change my cooling. I'm also running "close to 200 HP" and on an impreza tranny... a 2.2 liter impreza tranny with no stripping or breaking, but then I drive it pretty sane. It is not a swap for the faint of heart, but the site has TONS of info how to do the EJ22 swap and any EJ swap is about the same. Don't let these guys scare you.. it can be done, and for not too much. Hatches are cool, not like boring legacies... I think you made a good choice.

ok then.... if you still want to do anything if it's just me and you... :-\ I'll still bring you parts.... you want me to bring you parts;)

I'll be there still... I'll bring you some cool stuff too... Sooo...what time?

SO since Jeff's out... will it just me Mike and I? Mike, is there a place close to buy goods if need be?

Mikey... PM the locals with the linky FTW:-p

IMHO, the D/R Rx tranny isw not fancy enough to bother keeping. I once was toolin around in Lo, and it took Rick about 10 minutes to notice. Bah. Plus with the extra power, you'll hardly miss it.

I haven't got mine done quite yet... but I have a plan... stock evap, but legacy everything else. Then have custom hoses made... I also got tint

Yes it is... very easy in fact... but why? The EA82T is not the best choice if you are going to go all that way to wire and what not... drop a EJ22 into it FTW. We once put a late XT N/A EA82 into a second gen wagon, and that worked very well... think all we had to do was "modify" the frame rails a touch..

That and your insurance card probably says something lame... like "Subaru GL coupe"... not totally cool like mine that says "Subaru RX Turbo".. but then your insurance may be cheaper:-p Looks like a nice meet gents... sorry I didn't make it, I slept in a bit late to make the trip.

3rd'ed The calipers are the same size.

By That logic, we'd all be driving RX-7s, not model A's. (I drive a model A at work EVERYDAY twice a day... runs great.. ) Anyhoo... I'm a big EA82 fan, just not the turbo, don't get me started. I've had my wagon for 3 years now and had my first problem a few days after my last outing... I drove through some really high mud... the kind that upsets the distributor and makes it not want to run... and turns the engine a nice tan color... After a few days a T-belt idler failed. I had never opened the front of the motor in the past 3 years, and the car had sat for 2 years prior... and it's highly unlikely it had been touched before that at all.. so yeah, lack of maintenance FTL. Anyway I got all new idlers, and actually threw some used belts in there and left it coverless... I've junked so many of these engines due to not needing parts that I have many sets of belts... and as my EA fleet gets converted I end up with even more extra sets. IIRC all I need to save myself is a 12mm and a ratchet? Plus with the lift it is a cake walk. Now I can see the other side as well... I have an EA81 BRAT and all I did to it was change the dizzy and add plugs and wires to get it running... It was a pizza guys car before and well... taking care of it wasn't even on his radar... the little oil there was was thick and creamy. Thing still runs great tho. My opinion.... I prefer the EA82.. I've owned many more of them because I prefer the body style... and I just know how to work on them more as well. The EA81 is a great motor as well, just not my cup of tea, and I personally don't like the body style. I like my cars designed with rulers and sharp right angles... none of these rounded corners!:-p

totally the wrong bandwagon to jump on:-p

ohh! I had this problem with the XT once... same thing.. driving lights wouldn't work with the headlights, but the switch on the column made it so...Hmmm... what was it? IIRC, which is a maybe... I think I might have simply pulled a wire out of some connector right above my feet... I have really big feet and that does seem to be a problem sometimes.

SOHC EJ25

What are you doing there with the H6 stuff on the XT-6 rear? I'm having a hell of a time getting XT-6 rear rotors and I actually have the H6 rear set-up... anything swap over there?