kingbobdole

WARNING!!Results not typical I have no idea how seafoam could possibly do that.. I kinda thought that the sender unit was sealed to some extent and did not get fuel inside of the electronic parts.:-\

What's wrong with you?!?! I mean really....:-\

My alt has been dying for some time... in fact my alt did die, so I stole the overcharge king off of the Rx's motor... its a very bad alt... turns the lights on dimly when idleing, charges to 16 V sometimes... its neat... As far as grounding... I have about 4-5 big Stereo wires running between, the block and the frame, frame and the negative, and negative and the block.. its well grounded... Lastly, on the spacer... the thing I need is what goes behind the pulley.. Since mine is V and the 6 is serp... I have the split V pulley, I just need the thing that holds it off the front.

Roni and I went bowling tonight BTW:banana:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Is there anyway to like, cut the fan off the old alt and use that spacer? The spacer is all I need and I kinda am broke ATM...

ok then.... I actually have one, but I need the spacer thing to make it run a V belt... I know my alts an issue... is there no way to get the tach thing to work?

Pictures here... I'll upload more later... I got about 65 or so. http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a190/kingbobdole/Jan%2006%20Meet/2-07%20offroad/?start=0 Also search YouTube for "EJ22 Subaru hatch" theres a vid uploading.

So I installed a remote start on my SW, which is about the coolest thing BTW, and it has an issue... in order to sense the wagon running, the thing is looking for 1 volt above battery voltage. My wagon doesn't charge that high at idle, so the car shuts down rather quickly. The other way to sense that the car is running is the tach wire... Book says to turn my DVOM to AC power and check for .65-1.5 volts at idle and tap in there... I checked it out at the ignition coil and its more then that and the remote still does not work... Thoughts? -87 GL SW with carb->SPFI conversion.

IIRC there's a vet clinic right there.

If anyone wants to ride along in my wagon... I'll have some room... just let me know. I was gonna take D but then I thought about it... I'm trying to sell and don't want to break it... that and its as reliable as a french car...

Thats a lie! Anyway if anyone has a few parts I need.. .bring them please! I'm looking for an XT-6 3 piece rear transmission mount and shift linkages out of anything thats not an XT6 or a D/R... I need them for my 2.5 Rx.

I drive my 87 GL daily. Its got an AA 4" lift with AA wheels and 29s. I converted the carbby ea82 to SPFI and I drive it to work and such all the time. I love the look, and being a car guy I love to show off. A Jeep guy at my work always tries to challenge me, saying he has more lift. We measured at the lowest point and we have the same clearance! (14") I also have the D/R the LSD and I chose to keep my sway bar in the front. I did intend to build this car mostly as a winter car and a slight off roader as I only really get out to the trails 3 times a year. I also get descent MPG... 26 in 2wd, >20 in 4wd Lo:lol: but the EFI has been a PITA with the cold recently and I've been meaning to see if there are any codes.

I usually use LOTS of PB Blaster and time.... Soak it a few times a day and just let it sit... other then that there is a slide hammer that they make to pull axles out.

You keep reaching for that rainbow jeff.

I Doubt that... he did fine in the cheese last time and IIRC: Cheese wedge > Death wedge x 10,000 The original is always cooler:cool:

That'd be ok too.

Or Dorothy:-p

A typo. its fixed.

So the alt was tested bad, and I found that the negative clap on the battery was loose due to being over extended... Once he gets a new alt, it should be ok.

Doesnt the swift share parts with the Geo Metro?? Anyhoo... it seems most voted about 1 month to a year, with most lasting 6 months to a year. Roni's car, then Mikes and now my car Dorothy lasted a bit over a year... Steve threw it together for the Dragon 2005, then we got it later that year... she had it 6 months and then Mike got it and it went a few months after that. Anyway, thanks for the input. Rick is thinking of turboing his XT swapped '82 wagon

If you've had(or have:rolleyes: ) a High compression turbo, meaning a 9.5:1 or higher then 7.7:1 in a Turbo EA82, please tell how long it lasted, or is lasting and what you have done to make it last:headbang: or blow it up Basically Vote on: A. Barely made it out of the garage B. About a month C. 2-6 months D. 6 months to a year E. More then a year F. I'd like to build one G. Thats the dumbest thing I've ever heard Thanks!

Thats the odd part though... The battery is checking at 13+ volts at idle. I'm still kinda thinking ignition or maybe wiring from the battery to the ignition... also the voltage gauge will read about 12 volts at idle(real is 13) and the low voltage light will be on. Then when you rev it (and real volts go up) the gauge reads less voltage. I think its broke goood:Flame:

This is a post for Rick, but I'm trying to fix it for him. Problem is that when the key is on, or the car is running, the voltage gauge reads very low(although the actual voltage is good) the brake light, stop lamp and E brake light are all on. Also the blinkers are very slow. When I checked voltage at the flasher can it was getting only about 8 volts and the battery still had about 12 in it. I'm sure just the dash cluster is not getting good power or good ground. Thoughts?