kingbobdole

FWD subarus are the black sheep of the board. Seems no matter what I do to my FWD XT-6, everyone always finds lifted GL wagon cooler.:-\ You WILL get more MPG out of it, but since it's previously 4wd and not awd, it won't be a whole lot.

Bah, drilling is over rated... I just cleaned mine up real well, lined it up, and welded the gear to the shaft. I might have cut the shaft a bit short as well so I could get a good bead on the inside of the gear... I don't remember. I know it was a bit shorter, but I don't remember if I cut it or if it was just that way.:-\ Just another option.

It, like said could also be a simple vac leak. You did replace the intake gasket right? Hear any sucking? Also the speed sensor will not cause a high idle. Mine's not hooked up on my SPFI swap and it idles perfect, high when cold and low when warm.

I have an ea82, but I switched from carb to SPFI... now I'm seeking more power for the street with 235s. It wheels ok, but it just needs more grunt. This site is The Fellowship of the Carb, but I haven't touched any of my FI setups since I have installed them. I'm also wheeling at a MUCH higher elevation then I live, so to me it's a much better option. I also get about 24 mpg with my wagon, but my stock tire'd spfi ea81 brat got in the 30's

I'm running 28/29s on my DR wagon... it's hella slow, but does ok. You said loyale tho... so maybe?

I'm in about the 3 month area for a full swap. The XT was more of a 6 month or so if you count from when I built the harness. I was broke so I did the free first, then I whipped the engine in there in about 3 months. Back to the task at hand... so... it's all together, just get it running Russ-o! Then drive it to The Dragon and we'll race for slips:lol:

This is not an issue because the O2 sensor is upstream, before the cat. That is where you want it to get the best read because after the cat it will mostly always be "lean" and the engine will have to run super rich for the O2 behind the cat to get a rich signal. Running catless is just stupid. Yeah, it's cheap and easy, but you don't really free up any power, all you do is pollute your rump roast off. Most areas tampering with equipment like that is illegal. Save the fricken earth.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol: OMG really?! Talking smack at two posts! Awesome!

I got a summit generic trick flow which is a competitor for the walbro. Stupid thing was defective right out of the box so I sent it back... Now I'm waiting... and wishing I'd spend the extra $70 on the walbro....:-\

I just did this to an MI car like two weeks ago... We got a whole new pipe from the dealer. Covering rust holes=future rust. Like mentioned, it's a real cake job... but have the PB BLaster ready:lol:

If I were you... I'd swap the tranny and use the EJ clutch as well... some early 2wd imprezas have 23 spline axles that will match your current axles. You just have to rig a mount and custom the linkages and you're set. Yes on the springs...

OMG! at this rate your car should be running by like... next summer. J/K Russ... keep at it. :-p

I'm gonna annoy you and say it's gonna go boom. 2.5's really are not that good with head gaskets as it is.

When I went EZ in my fwd XT6 I used the legacy tranny. As a side note as well, they did make a 23 spline FWD impreza tranny... all the legacies are 25 spline, but some imps are 23. Also, +1 on being kinda hard to find. The EJ tranny may be harder to start with, but it will make the car less complex over all and open up future clutch options as well.

87 GL SW carb to SPFI converted EA82, soon to be turbo 4" AA lift 15" bent AA wheels 235/75R15 29"ish tires LSD rear useless winch 04ish Toyota kick plate '03 Legacy heated leather interior:banana: '03 legacy all weather floormats.. coolest mod ever. next mod: SJR rear bumper Front and cleaned up In front of the folks house:lol:

For some reason I keep getting auto donors... I've never had too many issues... My ol' Rx would stall a few times right after you reset the ECU, but the XT has had no troubles what so ever...

Very nice... I really like the seats.

EEEEVVVVIIIIILLLLLLLL Don't ask how much it's worth, more like how much you can get it for... Noss got a really, really rust free nice maroon one a while back for a very good price. Less then $500 IIRC... Thing was pure evil though... I'm not sue it ever ran right.:-\

I had to space my rears as well with the same wheels/tires. I used two standard sized washers on each lug. Another thing you'll break is lug nuts/studs ... even now my bigger wheels are pretty hard on them...

You think it looks... better?:-\

I've got one of those... it's almost like a paint pen, it's great.

Sweet... so if I use the H6 290mm setup I have laying around, my rear brakes will be bigger then my front!

It's my thread! Sorry I'm late to the party, but I don't get on here as much anymore. The question of EG33 vs EZ30 is one of cost only really. Like said, I've found the EG for a few hundred dollars... in fact right before I decided on the EZ I was offered one for $250. $2k for an EZ at this point is a smokin deal. I paid a little over that for my wrecked VDC car and have sold very little else off of it. I also did get a whole lot of parts including the long block with wiring and ECU and everything else. Other things to consider is that with the EG, you pretty much lose your A/C forever. It's also MUCH bigger then both the stock ER and the EZ in both dimension and weight. If you ask Huck (The EG33 XT-6 owner) he'll tell you that his car is nose heavy, and riding in it, you can tell it has a lot more understeer then even my FWD did stock. The EZ on the other had is lighter and MUCH shorter. Where Huck has a few sheets of paper clearance between the front of the motor and the radiator, I have a few miles. The engine is also newer, which was my personal biggest motivation, my engine only had 75k on it. It also has a timing chain instead of belts and the EZ30D like I have is a bit less HP then the EG. The EZ30R will be much more expensive but also have 20 more hp the the EG. Overall, either way is a good way to go, but you will have to swap that tranny. The EG seems like it's harder to get in the car, but easier to wire and cheaper overall for slightly more power, but possibly less handling. As far as hardness, to me a swap's a swap. The engine bolts in, with a few mods and then you wire it up. If you feel you can tackle it, go for it. It really makes for one hell of a car either way. More power and better MPG... I've been getting about 27 MPG in mine... lets see a WRX do that!

Personally I think that tranny is silly... just swap it to the EJ trans when you do the EJ engine. It's less work and you won't need the lo gear... that that it's that low anyway.

+1 Do this. I did it on my SPFI BRAT as well and my carbbed swapped EA82 wagon I run a TON of timing... Since you're lower compression then normal SPFI you can add a few degrees... IIRC I'm upwards of 28 degrees on the wagon, but I'm also at 5k feet. The relay should not get hot... that's why there's a relay... either the pump has too much draw or the wire to the relay is too small, or it's wired wrong. Adjust the TPS, mine was out too. Maybe check the resistance on your CTS as well? How is the pump mounted? In rubbers I hope. Advance your timing:)