kingbobdole

I just got a carbbed wagon, so I know nothing, keep that in mind. You also might check the PCV system hoses and make sure they are clear. Plugged can cause high oil pressure.

You left us ehh? Well, I have heard that there are more Subaru enthusiasts on the east coast then the west. The reason being that out here a Subaru is more common place and in the east they seem... rare. I have heard there was a shortage in junked rus, but I know there are quite a few guys on the XT6.net fourms at least that are out there.... you might also try the market place here, or post this again in the old school fourms as this is meet and greet, not a saying hello, a physical meet and greet setup fourm. You have to have working horns for inspection out there? Wow, here its just gotta smell nice:grin:

I've never had a problem with mine, but...... Would the coil ignitor make this kind of problem? Also if your getting power to the coil, but its not firing.... check signal, as in crank angle sensor.

I've lost 3 now, one in, trashed the main front cover, and T belts. One went out and rubbed on the fans. The last one I dropped:banghead: Now I have a light weight one I got from David at Proecm. Its a single piece, so it cannot fall apart. The point was that they can go in and trash EVERYTHING

Yes, what is this? I know what it sounds like, but if you could extrapolate, that would be great.

I was actually looking into getting the 6 banger one....... but they are only AUTOS!!!!!

Anyone care to nail down a day? As far as location, theres a place Westminster called Cicis pizza, $3 pizza bar, all you can eat and shove in your coat. They have cinnamon rolls, apple crisps and brownies and cookes AYCE too. Whats this Rocky Mtn roos business? BTW the 17 is a Monday, but I'd be down for the 16th

Hey, Get in touch with Subarustyles. Hes got his all red, but he tutored me on how to smoke them as well.

*streaches fingers* Time to resurrect this thread cuz its so damn funny. I drove a Justy once, and it was great. I also have been doing like 70s in 55 zones only to be fast passed by a Justy, and your in awe when it happens. Some one mentioned R/C cars for power to weight. My car weighs a huge 2520 grams. Yeah, I said huge. Its got a 3.49 cc displacement making 2.5 horse and a top redline of 35,000 Rpms. No, that IS a comma. 0-60 MPH, not scale mph, real ones is right around 2.5 seconds, but mines geared lower. And of course thats assuming I can get traction. I could stoplight race an STI and win, long as it didnt get much over 60, I think the car tops out right around 80. 60-80 mph has to be like 5 minutes. So put that in your pipe and smoke it!

Sorry, but reading your post made my brain hurt. Try using periods to get more responces. Anyways, In my XT I had the same problem, you could hit the headlights and the parking lights were a no go, but hit the parking light switch and it was happy. My problem is that I have big feet, and I pulled a wire loose under the dash. Check there first, If I remmeber, there are two wires going into a connector right above where your feet would be. As far as a dimming on one headlight, check the connector at the light. Sometimes corrosion can get in there and gum up the works. Clean it up a little, of course it could be the bulb. Good luck,

Hey, I might need to brush up on my German, but doesn't that claim 90 horse for the N/A and 136 horse for the turbo? I thought USDM was lower.

That might be a big deal. It took me a few tries to find a pre 82 car that would pass co emissions. Just had to get away from them damn Rx-7s:drunk:

Ok, Question from my friend, but its good..... Does it pass the wretched CO emissions?

I would 32nd the use of NGKs. When I first got my 6, I put some new bosch plats in and took it to the track..... got two runs before it fouled #5 so bad it was missing. Bleh. I got some basic NGK (strapped for cash at that point and "other" mishaps) and they are still in the car. I use craftsman tools and are great when you break them. I've used every excuse when I return 3/8s drives. Everything from "wouldn't you like to know" to "I put a 6' breaker bar on it, and it didn't hold for some reason", they still take it back. The down side to craftsman vs like maac or snap on is (I think) the wrenches, they flex real bad when you really get on them. A bud of mine in a shop showed me the difference getting the front axle nuts off. Used the craftsman on one side with its tons of flex, I used lots of power just flexing the wrench, the snap on had no flex, lots easier. The rachets are good as long as you use them right, even through light abuse they are great. Their sets are also rather cheaply priced. I'm done. ohh, and welcome

Hmmmmmmmmm................... Do you know that theres one in Pull and Save off peoria right now? You could get that regulator real cheap. My mother would KILL me..... thats never stopped me before

Soooo, What have you done to it and what haven't you done to it?

I have a question and a point. First the question.... this would work on an XT-6 as well right? Don't they have the same rears as the rest? Now the point. Another real nice thing about the front E-brake on a FWD car is if your kinda stuck and the one wheel is slipping, I can pull the ebrake slightly and it will make the diff transfer the power more over to the other wheel. I wish I had 4wd

I've wanted to ask this since the meet, but how much do you want for ol eyesore? Its been killing me, but that thing is cool.

No, you all are nuts. Subaru used a importing loop hole as far as number of vehicles imported. They could register cars as trucks and import more of everything. Talk to a guy at an emissions stand about early Subarus passing emissions, they all will mention having to look up vins, making sure its not regestered as a truck as they can have lower standards for some reason. I donno

I like "Lack of acceleration" the best! I think what Myxalplyx is reffering to is the swift Gt... the DOHC motor really moved the swift....swiftly?:-\ How do you shut off the bold?!?!?! Anyhoo, another good idea would be... amazingly enough the Geo motor.... yes... I said GEO! Reason is that the guys with the original brit Minis use those motors as they are cheap and easy to get parts for (vs 40 year old british parts) Anyhoo the result is Geo preformance parts. I would love to mod/rally one.. actually I just want something to drive around town in while wearing my racing helmet...

Ummm, Call me dumb, but what did you do? Were they orange before or what? Did you just dye them? Could this be done to say... Xt's rear lights? I guess, I just don't know what they looked like before....:-\

I dare ask..... Does he...... want to sell?

I've got a july of 85 road and track with a review of the XT Turbo in it... Some of the ads are great. One for a Murker, one for a Turbo 4 door dodge colt with the slogan, "Colt. It's all the Japaneese you need to know." Then theres one for the Rx Turbo. "The first Subaru that tests the driver's performance." it says. Its got a D/R 5speed, struts and an LSD... Also claims that only 1500 were made. Same slogan as said before though.... What else? Nissian Stanza wagon now with dual sliding doors.... I think the market place ads are the best.... kinda wished I could still get some of these gems....69 Alfa GTV for $3800.. Ohh the best is the title to the article on the Ru.... "Subaru 4WD Turbo XT Coupe 'Anchient religions and hokey weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid' -Han Solo" The article praises the car, but calls it... "gimmicky", and they compair it to a prelude.... and the preludes suspension being "more crisp" They say how nice it is, then bash it about its looks, and everything I find cool. Sorry I kinda went off there

Hey, I don't know much about RX-7 as I've only owned 2 of them, and never really did very much to them but........ Are you sure thats a 13B? It really looks like a early 12A out of the first gens.... One reason I say that is the oil cooler.... later cars had a filter mounted coolers, early cars had the type you have. I know for a fact that the 1980 Rx-7 did not have a 13B, but a 12A as one of the reasons that they are not allowed into spec 7 racing is because of rules concerning stock cats, and the 79 and 80's had thermal reactors. I had an 80 that wouldn't pass emissions, even had a little sticker under the hood that said it wouldn't pass beyond 3000 feet, but the E-guy was an rump roast. Anyhoo, why doesn't it run? Does it crank and crank, or is it like in the pics and need an intake of some kind? The reason I ask is cause theres some "tricks" to diag rotary cars. One thing EFI 13Bs would do is have leaky injectors. The fuel would load up in the engines and push the apex seals back, killing all compression. There were two soultions for EFI cars. On mine I rigged a switch that allowed me to kill the fuel pump, and thats how I shut the car off. No pressure, no leaky. Another way was to gain access into the intake manifold, put some light oil into it (MMO, atf) and let it sit for a bit... like 5 minutes. Then try to start it. That also worked on mine, and would at least get the car to start if it was lacking in compression. As far as cooling goes... why not just cut a big ol' hole in the hood and put on a scoop? One thing I noticed with my 2nd gen is that it ran REALLY REALLY hot. I mean the engines like a cracker jack box in size, and even the legendary taurus electric fan mod couldn't keep up with it when I got on it. ok, I'm done

I dont know much about the 82s... I'm a 27 guy. Knowing that... Have you taken anything apart recently? Sometimes when I get to working on stuff I forget to plug the distrubiter cable back in. in the 27s the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR is in the distrubiter... I would assume thats what its looking for. The 27s is also optical an if very dirty can malfunction.