kingbobdole

I didn't notice anyone jumping out there and saying it, but you cannot do a DOHC head job in the car. The rear lower bolt on both sides will just not clear... You might be able to jack the engine out of the cradle enough to get it but it's about a billion times easier to put it back together correctly with it on a stand. It's also not that hard to pull the thing.. last one I did took me like 45 minutes to pull. Ohh and as for the poll, I always have heads machined.

FYI, your car is considered "old school" The problem you are having... is the car mostly fine when the engine is cold, but it gets worse when the engine gets hot? I'm thinking it's the coil if it does that... it's on the drivers side front of the fenderwell and it a round can... you can get a new one for like $5-$20 depending on source.

This could be a few things. Does it do it when it's "cold" like cold outside or just the engine's cold? Do you have a MAF or is it MAP only? The blower motor is not tied to the vacuum system, the brakes are... kinda. But either way vacuum doesn't have anything to do with this. When you step on the brakes.... your brake lights come on, causing a load and a voltage drop across the system... that's what slows the blower motor. The best way to "fix" this issue is to get some led type bulbs for the brake lights. They draw less current and cause less voltage drop. Otherwise that's pretty normal.

You'll get a +1 on the EA82T being the wrong "swap" engine. SPFI loyale is like 90 HP and the EA-T is 110 or so depending on version. It also likes to blow up. The early EJ22 wiring harness is very simple... no worse then the SPFI harness.. and it's 130 HP and reliable. My advice, don't waste you time on 20 HP for a demon.... and not the good kind at that.

This thread needs more pics of EJ's getting attacked by sawzalls.

Thanks for the support there.... On that note as well, the EZ30 was shorter then my ER27. I would guess (and given half the chance) the EZ30 would fit in a loyale without even moving the electric fan. If I can find a cheap block, I'll let you know.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95392 Hint: Look down.

Firstly... 3 year old thread? An Ej22s are old hat... the EZ30 is where it's at... 4th gear burnouts are so much more fun.

Geeze... and I was happy with my 190 horse out of my XT-6. Good work!

I'm 6'4" and they do sit a bit higher... probably about 2", but maybe more... The reason is all the butt padding.. it makes all the difference. It's a big problem for a car like the XT that doesn't have much of a roof line. I put an STi seat in my XT6 and my head did hit the ceiling and I had to cut the car apart literally to make it sit lower so I could get into it. In my wagon though, there is still a bit of room left between the roof and my head... I usually "homey-ify" the seat a bit, not much, but a good sized bump will get me. At the sae time though, I do take it wheeling from time to time and have very little head issues.

Actually, it really wasn't too much. Bent the front tabs down a bit. Elongated a hole on the inside rear bolts and drilled and bolted the outside. Then, I had grabbed the wiring and switches from the donor car and ran a relay hooked to battery power. Switches light up and the seats heat well.. really great in the cold. I also hooked up the drivers 8 way power to work as well. Rear seat was a bit harder, lots of drilling holes and making spacers.. The bottom was easy, just added the old hinges to the new seat. The back needed more of the custom work. People say tan and grey don't go together, but when I'm this comfy and warm, I just don't care. Here's the inside front bolt Rear lower seat Think I had to drill an extra hole for the hinge and just took the pad off and put a nut on the back Back seat back section... rather rigged center mount... outside feet

+1 on NASIOC but know this... there are a few pretty high powered EJ18 turbo cars out there... the cylinder walls are thicker then the EJ20 or 22... so they can take quite a bit of boost. Search the Mermaid:headbang:

Last dash I pulled took me about an hour to get out and I had to be nice (just doing a heater core) There are surprisingly few bolts holding it in... just get it out of the way.

Ah! It means Vehicle Dynamics Control. In the more current cars (01 onwards) they use a yaw sensor to detect the car about to spin, then the ECU will cut engine output and apply specific brakes using the ABS to correct the drift. In 01-04ish or so it was like a trim level in the outbacks, and IIRC all of them were the H6. The current cars pretty much all have it.

Legacy seats as far as bolt up are mostly the same... they kinda have to be rigged. If you really want comfort, I say get some hea-ted leather seats. I scored mine from an 03 VDC outback wagon with the H-6. Makes my "winter car" that much more wintery.

Heated leather FTW! I have 03 VDC seats in my 87 GL:banana:

+1... Originality is only cool for so long... then you swap in an EJ with a turbo:banana:

Standalone management anyone? Seems like the way to go on a CAN system.

try checking the code from the TCU.. Via Shawn: EXISTING PROBLEM CHECK PROCEDURE Move shifter to D and turn manual switch ON. Turn Ignition switch ON Move select lever to 3 and turn manual switch OFF Move select lever to 2 and turn manual switch ON Move select lever to 1 and turn manual switch OFF Partially depress accelerator pedal (this turns the idle switch off) Verify that the light is blinking on the dash. Count like any Subaru trouble code with long/short. 11-duty solenoid A 12 duty solenoid B 13 shift solenoid 3 14 shift solenoid 2 15 shift solenoid 1 21 atf temp sensor 22 atmospheric sensor 23 engine rev signal 24 duty solenoid C 31 throttle sensor 32 vehicle speed sensor 1 33 vehicle speed sensor 2 There is a procedure for previous problem check, it is : Move lever to 1 and turn manual switch on Ignition switch on Move lever to 2 and turn manual switch off Move select lever to 3 and turn manual switch ON Move select lever to D and turn manual switch OFF Partially press accel pedal Read codes Usually a lack of rear assist is a solenoid C issue or a rear clutch pack. BTW is it the power light flashing or the trans temp?

might want to double check your timing since you pulled the dizzy... other then that sounds like these guys are on the right track, cracked vac or PCV hose FTW.

Firstly, points suck. Secondly, Aerostars also suck. Thirdly, if I had a nickel for every dodge caravan tranny I replaced last year I'd have a bit over a dollar fifdy. Luckily I get much more then a nickel to replace them:banana: The funniest thing I've ever replace on a caravan was the BCM. The timer circuit fried on a customer's that killed the battery in the process and he brought it to us. Unfortunately for him the timer runs just about everything from the interior lights to the head lights and none of them worked. So about $1k later and two weeks(they have to program the vin into it at the factory) he had headlights again.

could be a vac leak... any misfire at all, or just intermittent power loss? Mine isn't the best example but mine also usually revs pretty high when I start it and then settles down... usually with-in about 15 seconds tho... I disagree with the tune up, the only thing I've seen bad plugs do to a subbi is give them misfire with a CEL, and usually that isn't until about 135k or so. +1 on finding the most repeatable offense and taking it in. Don't tell them what you think is wrong with it, just what you think it's doing wrong and how to make it do it.

How many miles is her's?

+1.. I just don't pay over $100 for a tranny myself... yards usually cost about $75 around here and I keep that as my benchmark. As far as sitting hurting the syncros... depends on where it was sitting... if it was in a car with a hood, it's probably fine. If it was out in a field with no dipstick, it could have rust in it. Syncros are typically brass tho, so none there... it's be more the bearings I'd be concerned with.

I have the same problem with my 03 VDC outback seats..... sometimes they work just awesome, sometimes I freeze going to work. I have also noticed it on other's cars I have driven as well and is seems to be more common in the leather seats. No clue how'd you go about proving it though, that's a tough spot. Maybe try for a twofer and get the seats diag'd while they fix the HVAC?