kingbobdole

Actually.. I'm thinking more the cat... how advanced is your scanner? Usually I'll just look at the front and rear O2 sensor readings... cruising down the road the front will be in pretty good flux, but the rear should be flat lined. The P0420 you have is a cat efficiency code, not a heater code. Heater codes look at one thing.. continuity of the heater circuit and draw. This cat code compares the front and rear O2 readings... if they are similar, it sets the light. You can be right though... a very lazy(faulty) front or rear sensor can also cause the code... but with the conditions you describe.. you probably just broke it... Here's a quick test... while the exhaust is cold, lightly rap on the cat... If it sounds like a rattle, you need one:-\

I didn't read your threads so this might be out of context, but answers the OP question as well... If the tranny has torque bind or a Duty Solenoid C issue (the one that controls the 4WD) You do not need to replace the tranny. I've been very successful in the past taking the rear extension housing off of the tranny and either replacing the solenoid (very common) or the clutch pack. Sometimes also a simple transmission fluid flush will take care of binding issues. Typically if the fluid looks fresh, and you are getting a code in the tranny for solenoid c and the tranny otherwise doesn't slip... then you can play Dr. In some instances I've got binding trannys that slip badly in gear... flushing makes them not move... they are done. I've also had issues in the past with TCUs going south.... Are you getting any codes? (power light flashes at start up) Also, a simple note on the electronics. When the rear solenoid GETS power it DUMPs fluid resulting in 2wd. When you put the fuse into the holder, it GROUNDS the TCU which APPLIES POWER to the solenoid. That's why if it's stuck, or the TCU is bunk, the solenoid stays closed which is full 50/50 4wd. Ok, too much info... basically it's this. if inserting the fuse, like you have it in fwd, with NO binding, means the solenoid works... or the clutch pack is wore out (hopefully the first one) from there if the tranny doesn't slip, you're set.

That guy totally needs to trade me wagons:grin:

when it was 15 below zero the other day... my wagon or XT would not start... I had to jump the wagon with the wife's toyota... Now the block heater is blowing the breaker.. fun... and I must have left the XT's door open that day and now the battery is flat.:-\

My 87 SW with spfi swap is pretty anemic in the cold. Seems my dry cell battery doesn't like the temps in the negatives... the other day it was -18 when I got up and it just wouldn't start, couldn't crank fast enough... Jumped it and it was off. Normally, I remote start it in the moring... the night before I put it in neutral, turn the heat to the windshield and flip on my heated seats... it quite the snow beast once it's warm.

I did a quick search, but didn't turn up anything. I have an '87 EA82 SW... I want a block heater... can I just get a new gen one and put it in? Anyone sourced them elsewhere?

The ol wag... And here's one of Shawn

I see you flogging that thing all the time.. Does everything you own have a billion lights on it?

Ok, I'll play... I need a more updated engine pic, but you get the idea:rolleyes:

Is that a running SW for $300... I got mine a bit cheaper:rolleyes: I say jump on it... but I bet its an 85, not an 84... seeing as it's a 3rd gen. I put the EJ25 into the Rx that Mikey owns... it was a great swap really... lots of power, great fuel milage.... ohh and it was cheap since everyone hates the EJ25.

yes... trying to run a gas engine as a diesel will just blow the bottom end apart... everything is beefier in a diesel.

I have a very low post count here... does that make me a n00b? I've only swapped like 8 engines... SPFI'd a few and lifted a couple.... man I better do a search first:rolleyes:

I put '03 vdc legacy outback seats into my 87 ea82 wagon. Front bolted up well, but like the last guy I had to make the rear work a little on the inside... Mine sit a bit higher, but not by much... I think it is simply the thickness of the butt cushion.

That's nice and all but, I do not "fear" carbs, and I can understand why you would want them. A LOT of cheap and easy power can be made with them. At the same time, There is really no "cheap" in a custom intake to me. Yeah, you can make it for free, but how much time does it take? And then swapping heads so you can run a dizzy too? Why not just put some points into it and screw wiring anything? I think carb guys just "fear" wiring. The BIGGEST reason I mentioned going FI was because the OP mentioned fuel milage and wheeling. Two huge advantages to FI there. You're right, this does come up on the boards a lot. buncha old carb guys vs a buncha young whippersnappers and their fancy electrons:horse: Back on topic. I agree that 2.2 heads would be the answer to the distributor problem... Also check out Volkswagen guys for some carb answers... There's more then one dual webber subaru powered beetle out there... I bet fabbing up an old air cooled VW manifold and making it fit the sub wouldn't be that hard

Didja change the Tstat? Did it have the little hole or jiggle valve in it? If you have some ramps you might get it up on those to purge the air, it usually helps... also the spill free funnel is actually great despite it false claims. Stick with it, it's not that bad.

As far as I know the piston tops don't have any valve reliefs and that helps make more compression while making it interference. Here's a question.. why go to all that work to make it carbbed? If your looking for MPG, the EFI cannot be beat, that and with wheeling. My 88 Rx with the 2.5 got about 32 MPG mostly or about 28 when I was really after it. Here's this: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=6787&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=project+stalling

keep the faith, they are good cars they just typically need some lovin' by this point. Just a note since you seem to be doing the job in car. Get some assembly lube or heavy grease of some sort. You just dab some on the top of the rocker to help them hang in place while you get the cam carrier back on... that was always the hardest part for me. Then before you snug down the carrier reach your hand in there and make sure all the rockers are flat against the cam... Otherwise it's cake.

SPFI FTW... it's about the first thing I ever did to my wagon. My carb was in poor shape and since I prefer FI anyway I got on it. Every time I've done it as well it is always very cheap too. The second time zeke on here gave me 90% of the parts to do it!

My latest creation Body: The Cheese wedge, '89 XT-6 Engine: '03 Legacy 3.0 H6 Trans: 2005 STi 6 speed manual 3.9 fd awd cable Suspension: Lowered stock XT-6 on KYBs IIRC Wheels: '05 Legacy GT 17"s Other: I converted the FailWD to awd due to the number of transmission I broke. Seems the box didn't care for twice the power, kept breaking the diffs. Soon to be supercharged...

I generally don't care about the new guy meets... one of them yelled at me tho saying he missed my strange cars. I still haven't gotten my beast running, hopefully this weekend... I just can't get more then 4 hours a week to work on it:-\

I have one... for some reason... The only 2nd gen I think I've owned was a DL and had no center lamp...

You cannot have my wonderful wagon.. I'd miss my heated seats:grin: I'd want a few grand for my Rx.. Oh while I ditched I did this:

I'ma ditch and work on the XT... sorry... I have to work sat and won't get it done then, probably just the engine in place. Hey danny... wanna buy my Rx?:-p

If I'm on my toes, it'll be the shake down cruise for the new and improved XT-6... but I'll probably end up ditching to work on the blasted thing.:-p

If you have some chassis ears, or access to them, I'd use those... otherwise you might try putting it up on stands and getting a stethoscope and listening to the bearings. Just let it run at idle, and make sure to check the side bearings in the transmission as well, but it does sound like a wheel bearing