kingbobdole

I've seen that thing on the street... IIRC he had some other body on it... like a kia SUV with a subaru badge and stuff like that... He musta wrecked the previous body... I think Rick knows something about it, I think he talked to the guy

I've forgotten what he calls that little blue thing... blast, he texted me earlier and called it whatever...

IIRC the tone ring is simply pressed on to the outer end of the CVs. That shouldn't be a problem really, but mounting the sensors and the modulator and wiring the whole thing is just a waste. ABS sucks and really is only intended for panic stopping, not winter use or anytime traction is really the problem. Just learn to keep your distance and pump your own brakes if need be, it works better, is cheaper and less problematic.

I'd love to go but I'm in Longmont... :-p Actually I really need to get my garage cleaned out so I can bring the XT home next weekend and swap it.

Update on this: We replaced both front axles tonight with new units. Both the outer boots were torn and the right side joint was dry and getting purple.

+1 Happy Birthday mang! We all need to actually have an old school BBQ soon... it's been a while.

Looks nice.. I went 5 lug so I could use XT-6 wheels... I'm not sure it needs to be lower(well I'd do it, but that's beside the point) I just think you need to straighten the front wheels and take another pic... looks strange with the wheels turned in that manner... I like the rims, what are they?

The ol' EJ25 Rx has been getting about 30 mixed driving mostly floored:burnout: My lifted 87 GL wago has been getting 24 or so mostly highway... it's a record! Once it snows the wagon can see as low as 12:eek: Blasted low range and snow drifts:-p

My 2 cents... I personally, to "power" the switch, would grab a "pre-fused" switched power from the fuse box. That way, it'd: A. be a separate fuse, not that it takes a lot of current. B. be shorter wiring. and finally C. could not be left on all day. In your circuit you can turn/leave the fan on anytime... possibly draining the battery.

I have an optima yellow top ad an XT-6 90 amp alt... I also had trouble with my stock tiny winch wires melting.:-\

OBD I 2.2 harnesses are about as basic as they come. When I ran my 2.5 W/O P/S I went to advance auto. I took the old crappy belt off, cut it to the length I needed and drug it around everywhere.

I'M SORRY!!! :( :( :( I finally got my house and was getting it ready to move in all weekend (leaky pipes and it's just kinda gross) The whole party thing slipped my mind! SORRY! Hope yous guys had fun without me, and HBD!

Depends. I got mine out of an "american" JY years ago... loaded all sorts of parts into a box and he charged me $150 for it all. After that Zeke just gave me a whole setup. So between free and $150? If loyales are plentiful and cheap in your area, look for a crappy one and get it for $100 or less for the parts.. that'd work

I get about 22 mpg or so... sometimes as high as 24, not usually lower then 20. I was getting 32 unlifted... 87 EA82 carb swapped to SPFI MT5 D/R 3.9

Are you going to drive it with all those ladders on top too?:-p I was working on a customer's just the other day. He grenaded the rear wheel bearing so bad the inner race had tore up the drum. We tried to order a new one, no luck... Got a used one, closest was in the Springs 100 miles away... The car in general has been kinda hard to get parts for in the past. Other then that it is kinda rough, being a 3 banger.. but it's quick.

+1 billion... I also have some magic pieces of metal cut into the shape of fans for you all... Stick them in your intake to swirl the air.. 10% HP BOOOST! only $79.95 :-p

That's just not true. Firstly swapping in the 4wd isn't that hard, and secondly, they sold 2wd legacies... get a 2wd leg tranny, like-a this: Other then that, One thing you need to decide is how fast do you want to go? If you just want it peppy... tune it up. Change the plugs and wires, and make it run the best it can. Then you might try and advance the ignition timing a touch to grab a bit more power out of it. Not going to get you a lot though. If you want more then that, swap it. EJ or bust, settle for nothing in between. Know this: The ER27, and EA82 Turbo are of no interest. The ER is hard to source parts for, and isn't all that exciting as well as having a hard install. Don't get me started on the turbo:rolleyes: The basic EJ22 will jump you up about 40 HP and is super reliable and pretty cheap. Wiring can be a problem for some (it's only 3 pages or so, but still) and you'll need a tranny, possibly axles if you get the wrong tranny, you'll need turbo EA axles. Custom parts here and there, not a swap for the unexperienced. The Ej25 is out there as well. people don't like them, so you can pick them up cheap. It's a 75 HP jump from stock, but the wiring is a bit more and they can be problematic if not cared for. I have one in my Rx... makes it move pretty good. As far as wheels go, yeah, you're boned. Find another turbo XT cap.:-p

I think it's the lack of trim.... it looks odd, but fun.

Thanks pops.:-p

Sooo... big turn out so far, or am I the personal killer of meets?

My wagon needs one of those... good job.

On the tranny side.... you'll need the axles as the Turbo ones are more splines. You'll also need to change the rear diff to accommodate the Turbos final drive.... but, any EA82 will bolt up to any ea82 tranny... so you really don't get anything by swapping the tranny... unless you need one anyway. On the engine side you can put it in, it will bolt up, but you'll have to wire it. Not a simple task for sure, and it may not be something you want to take on...

Probably more... H6 outbacks roll in at 3770 lbs.. I'm more at the 2400 lbs or so... +1 on Huck being the man... Don't really recall him having transmission issues....

+1... TCU failures are rare, but you must replace the TCU if you change the transmission with one of a different TCU type. I put a 1993 tranny into a 1994 and had power light troubles and torque bind... It had come with a TCU, but I had neglected to put it in... After swapping the TCU all problems went away. You just have to check the number on the TCU... no idea what the difference between them is, but I know it makes a difference. On a side note, to test the duty solenoid all you need is a voltage source... hook it up and try and blow through the solenoid. There should be a click as well...

4">2" FTW!