jj421

Yeah, definitely not your fault that it leaks. Just poor manufacturing. Kind of like axles. Most "new" remans just don't work like they're advertised. The thing that irks me, however, is how on O'Reilly's site, it says the pump is new. You can buy a cheaper, remanufactured pump, but the pump you installed is advertised as new. Ergo, it should work without flaw. But I guess OEM Japanese parts will always trump aftermarket parts. I believe that when I tighten down the bolts with my 1/4" ratchet, it torques them perfectly. Not tight enough to shear the bolts, but not loose enough to create concern. I think since the torque values on these bolts are so low, it doesn't matter much, as long as if they are snug. I noticed RTV got on the bolts when I reinstalled the pump, so that makes sense. I'm thinking I should spend the extra couple dollars for a gasket from the dealership. According to subaruparts.com, it only costs $3 for the gasket. I can stop by the dealership tomorrow, since it's right next to my school. Maybe sticking my old pump on will be the best option for now. Not sure how long EA82 water pumps last, but if I have to replace it again, I'm going to the junkyard. If my water pump failed, I'd probably buy this pump from O'Reilly anyways. A pump from the dealership costs $100 (according to subaruparts.com), which is twice as much as this one from O'Reilly. As a broke, 17-year-old college student, with a 15-hour-per-week minimum wage job and a $180/month car insurance bill, I'm all about saving money when I can. If I was doing a full engine rebuild, I'd definitely use dealership parts. But just replacing one part, I generally tend to keep to cheaper stuff, if it's acceptable. A thermostat, cone washer, valve cover gasket, etc., I'll go to the dealership. But for an alternator (for example), I'll just buy from O'Reilly. Once one problem gets solved, another shows up. The one thing I like about this problem is the mileage. When I swapped the motor, I reset the trip odometer inside the car. Now the car is a sitting duck exactly 400.x miles later. I was actually mistaken. I have grey silicone RTV, made specifically for water pump and thermostat gaskets. The packaging was blue, which threw me off, haha. But like I said, I put some RTV on the rubber o-ring, and I really doubt that that will leak from now on. Too bad I don't have compressed air, so I can't do that test. I have no problem suspecting the elbow hose and other hoses, but they're not wet with coolant. The top of the water pump is dry. The bottom of the water pump is wet. So it has to be leaking from the water pump's height or lower. As far as I'm concerned there are no other coolant lines below that. Ergo, isolating the pump. Again, I'll test the hoses when I take the car apart, but I'm 95% sure those aren't the problem (yet). That's one of the first things I looked at when I first saw it leaking. But when I had the TBI gasket in, the bottom half of the TBI was wet with coolant. The coolant ran down the driver side of the intake manifold, and dripped near the gasket where it bolts onto the engine. Not to mention it hydrolocked the engine. Haven't noticed any of those symptoms since taking that gasket out, and still haven't noticed those symptoms with this leak. The TBI is dry, intake manifold is dry, the block/heads are dry. Also, with the TBI gasket in, it didn't leak out this fast nor in front of the engine. I also checked the intake manifold gaskets, since I didn't put RTV on those. They're still holding up and are dry. The entire top half of the engine is dry. Not a single wet spot, nor any visible leaks. Not to mention that that car is parked on an uphill slope (in the same spot where is was parked when we dropped the motor in), so if any leaks occurred, gravity would pull the coolant down to the rear side of the engine. But this rapid leak is coming from the front of the engine, somewhere behind the water pump and crank pulley, and is dripping down to the oil pan. It has to be coming from the water pump or the connecting lines (which, again, I will test them when I pull the pump off again). Before I replaced the gasket, I could see it leaking from the pump. Couldn't see it leaking after the installation of the gasket, but the timing belt tensioner pulley right underneath the pump was soaked. After the gasket replacement, it was leaking out just as fast as before, which tells me that the gasket swap did nothing (and ergo wasn't the problem).

I definitely don't want to run any chemicals through my system. I'm against chemicals and additives, haha. Are you sure it's an IDENTICAL problem? Haha, because the coolant leaks out almost as fast as I put it in. If I were to run the car, I'd have to top it off every five minutes. If I put 2 fl oz of coolant into the system, it'll all be on the ground within 40 seconds. Yeah, it leaks that fast. When I take the pump off again, I might test that elbow hose. Cap off one end, fill it with water, check for leaks. Blow into the hose, listening for leaks. But I really don't think it's that hose, since the top of the water pump is dry. So, my bet is on a faulty water pump. I'll see what I can do with buying a legitimate Japanese pump, but I doubt my paycheck will be big enough for that. As much as I'd like to try that water pump you might have, it seems like a waste of time and effort. Unless it's a low mileage OEM pump, waiting 24 hours to let RTV cure just to test it doesn't seem like it's worth it to me, haha. I might head to the junkyard this weekend, if I can. An original water pump with fewer than 170K or so might be worth it. My old pump on my old engine had 261K on it, and it was still going strong. Unfortunately, Subruise took my old engine, so I can't take it off of that. We talked, and he's going to try and find the receipt, but doubtful I can exchange it.

Make sure your spark plug wires are correctly orientated. Sounds like what happened to me when I swapped my motor. Turns out I had the wire for cylinder #2 and #4 mixed up.

Well, I started adding coolant and it was going fine. However, it eventually started leaking again, at about the same rate. Only difference now is, I cannot see it leaking when I'm looking above my engine. I cannot see it leaking from the water pump nor anywhere else. However, it's still rapidly dripping off the oil pan and skidplate. The tensioner pulley right underneath the water pump is wet with coolant though, so I believe my the water pump is cracked or faulty somehow. Keep in mind that the pulley is right underneath the pump itself, not the gasket. If the gasket is leaking, that pulley shouldn't be wet. I'm not very happy about this, haha. Now I can't drive my car until Saturday, because I don't have the money to buy the part today. I can't exchange the old pump, because I don't have a receipt for it. So now I have to spend $50 (at least) on a new pump. A dealership pump will cost me $100, and I definitely don't have the money for that.

I believe you're talking about the small line going to/from the block and thermostat housing. That's the only one I can think of, and like I said above, I already replaced that line. Again, it is visibly leaking from the bottom of the water pump. It has to be a problem with the pump because if another coolant line was leaking, I would see wet spots or something, but I don't. I'll let you know how the gasket goes tomorrow morning.

Aha, a little late for that. Already put everything back together. Can't wait until tomorrow to see if it leaks. I have a feeling it won't seal for some extraterrestrial reason, but I'll just have to wait and see. The majority of my coolant lines are in good shape (no cracks). But I'll probably end up replacing all the rubber in my engine sometime in the near future.

Cool, I'll put some RTV around the o-ring when I put it back on. It looked to be in good shape, and was in there pretty snug. The leak was coming from the bottom of the water pump, and there weere no wet spots near that pipe. But I guess it never hurts to take extra precautions. I hope I don't need to order a new pump. It'd be one thing if I could get money back for this pump, but I can't. EDIT: I picked up the gasket and installed it. The water pump is back on my car. I put a little RTV on the rubber o-ring, but not a lot. Gasket looks like it is on flat. Tightened the bolts in the star formation, like you would with lug nuts. I am using my 1/4" ratchet to tighten them, because once I can't turn the bolts anymore, they're torqued perfectly. When I get back from class this evening, I'll double check the bolts and put everything back together. I guess the only thing to do now is wait until tomorrow morning.

I currently can't afford a new pump, haha. I dumped every dime I had into purchasing the engine, since I didn't expect to be replacing anything on the engine for a few years. A brand new water pump would run me about $50 USD at my local auto parts store. Took a closer look, and found that the product image on O'Reilly's site has PH -1682 on it, which is what is on my pump. So I believe I have an Import Direct water pump (part #CP161). It says it's built new, not remanufactured. My water pump does sit flat and flush. I'll just pick up the new gasket, put some RTV on it, put it on, let it sit for a day, tighten bolts again, and start adding coolant. Hopefully it won't leak, but you never know. Hey, on the bright side, this gives me an opportunity to paint my alternator brackets red.

Okay, so here's some pictures of the pump. I looked closely, and I can't see any cracks. Nothing popped out at me, but then again, it's the first time I've seen a water pump outside of an engine. Let me know if you guys see anything on it, but to me, it looks intact. scoobiedubie, if there's a way to match these to the water pump you returned, that'd be great. I cannot match these numbers to part numbers on O'Reilly's site nor RockAuto's.

That proves my point even more, as to why I do work myself. I have no idea where the pump was bought from, but I'll take some pictures of it. I haven't noticed any cracks, but I haven't really taken a good look at it. Maybe you can see something I can't. I bought the engine from Subruise, and I'm assuming he was the one who replaced the water pump. I sent him a text asking if he was the one that installed it, but I haven't heard from him since I sent that text almost 30 hours ago. Maybe he'll chime in if he's reading this. Mr Loyale, I've already replaced that hose. When my old engine "died," that's the first thing I replaced. I have a new hose and new clamps there. I think that was the problem with my old engine, but I replaced the TBI gasket at the same time, which let coolant into the cylinders which led me to believe the heads were cracked. Ergo, I swapped the motor, only to find out having a TBI gasket caused major leakage. Lots of details in my thread, "Random Coolant Leak." Long story short, I replaced that hose, haha. Plus, the coolant is visibly leaking from the water pump, and puddling below it. I didn't even need to run the engine before it started leaking.

Alright, well I ordered a gasket and took off the water pump. Old gasket looked okay, although there were a couple spots that might have caused a leak, but nothing major. The o-ring looked to be in good shape. Went ahead and scraped all the old gasket material off (my least favorite thing to do when working on cars), and now she's ready for the new gasket. The new gasket should be in tomorrow. Bought some blue RTV, and going to use that since it was used on the old gasket. Not sure if I need to RTV the bolts though. It looks like there was some RTV on the bolts already.

Well, as of today, I'm 90% sure that the water pump gasket is the problem. I tightened four of the five bolts holding the water pump on (couldn't get to the last one), and they all seemed pretty tight. My Chilton manual says these should be torqued to 7-8 ft-lbs, but my torque wrench doesn't go that low. Not to mention I don't have a 10mm socket that fits on a 1/2" drive, haha. Anyways, I tightened up the bolts, but they weren't loose. So I don't think that was the problem. Here is the supply pipe and bracket. This is the very first thing I suspected when I first saw the leak. Right after I got off of work, I loosened the 12mm nut holding the bracket onto the engine, and I made the pipe fit into the water pump better. It wasn't making great contact, but for the past 400 miles, I haven't noticed any problems with it. So anyways, I moved the pipe so it sealed better. Didn't work. As you can see, the pipe isn't sitting flush on the water pump. But I noticed coolant on top of the water pump: I added a bit of coolant, and almost immediately, I noticed it dripping right underneath the water pump. It was dripping right into the crevice right under the pump, behind a timing belt pulley and a small spring. From there, it drips down to the oil pan and skidplate. It drips into this crevice almost as fast as it drips onto the ground (like in the video). So, I'm pretty sure the gasket is shot. Maybe I'll replace that o-ring on the supply pipe and the gasket at the same time. Is the water pump gasket a "you should only buy it from the dealership" kind of gasket? Is RTV necessary or a good idea for the water pump gasket? Is there a specific name or part number for the o-ring?

Okay, so about two weeks I swapped my EA82's longblock. It came with a brand new water pump. The first day, I noticed some coolant loss, but it was a combination of bleeding the system, letting coolant pump through every hose, and I didn't fill up the overflow tank. By the second day, she was holding coolant nicely. About a week later, I notice the temp gauge is reading a bit higher than normal (not overheating though). Up until then, I noticed no coolant loss, and I was checking it every day. However, the radiator went dry and there was no coolant in the overflow tank. I noticed no visible leaks. Filled her up and wanted to double check the coolant to make sure. Wasn't noticing any problems, until I turned the car off when I got to work today. As always, I look back at my car when I walk away, haha. But this time, I noticed coolant was dripping pretty fast out the bottom of the car. I crawl underneath, and find it's dripping from the oil pan onto the skidplate onto the ground. Pop the hood, and notice no visible leaks. Completely dry of coolant, but yet it's still dripping out onto the ground. I had to clock on, so I left the car sitting. Nine hours later, I need to get home. First thing I did was adjust the metal pipe that fits in between the driver side radiator hose and the water pump. Adjusted it so it sits better on the water pump. I start adding some coolant, and it starts dripping out the bottom again. Again, no visible leaks. Luckily, I only live 5 minutes from work, so I was able to drive it home. Got home right as the temp gauge reached its normal readings, so it didn't overheat. Turned the car off, and noticed smoke coming out of the grill. Pop the hood and find coolant sprayed around the water pump. At this point, it is NOT dripping coolant on the ground. So anyways, anyone have tips? I searched topics on water pumps, but there aren't many threads about it. Best solution I could find is that new water pumps will do this, especially if there's debris in the cooling system, and it'll eventually fix itself. I can do some work in the morning, but should I just run the car a bit more and see if it fixes it? Oh, I forgot to mention that I've noticed no other problems. No overheating, no coolant in the oil, no oil in the coolant, etc. Here is video of it dripping out, and what happened when I got home: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fs_l8KwI0I4&list=PLWKW712Na2Z5uYMhUIrlkcgGSaNQ8ozGA&index=1 Thanks for any help! 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 (swapped exactly 400 miles ago, has 116K on the motor, new water pump, longblock)

Woops, didn't realize we were talking about an XT. Well, some of what I said can still apply. DL is the base model, GL is nicer, and GL-10 is the nicest.

What year is it? I'm assuming it's an EA82 body, since I don't think the GL-10 was available until the release of the EA82. The DL is the base model, and the GL-10 is the most luxurious model. The GL is in between. The DL will have things like (but not necessarily all) manual windows, manual mirrors, missing tachometer, no power steering (depending on the year), no A/C, FWD only, N/A engine, etc. The GL-10 will have all the options. Power windows, power mirrors, intermittent wipers, all the gauges, power steering, A/C, sunroof, rear speakers, better radio, 5-speed D/R or 4EAT full-time 4WD tranny, turbo engine, rear dome light (in the back of the wagon), rear disk brakes, trip computer, digital instrument cluster, etc. The GL will be in between. It'll have some options, but not all. EA82 GLs never came with the trip computer, rear dome light, rear speakers, or digital instrument cluster. Those are GL-10 only features. GLs sometimes had turbo engines, but not all. Of course, there are exceptions. My old '81 GL only had intermittent wipers (which didn't work). Everything else was manual. My current '90 Loyale is just like a DL, because it has no options. However, most Loyales (were made from '90 to '94) had power mirrors, windows, etc. So just gauge it off of how many options you have. Every GL-10 I've seen have had GL-10 decals/badges on the car. DLs only have Subaru decals/badges, and GLs usually have GL decals/badges. Different years came with different options, but what's listed above is generally the differences between 'em.

That would be interesting. I don't think I've read of someone doing a manual-to-auto swap. The full time 4WD would be nice up there in the snow, especially during the winter (not sure how much snow you have up there now). I think you'd probably eventually miss manual shifting if you did that swap, but I guess you're keeping the D/R.

My old motor had a crack identical to that on the crank pulley. Like you said, I noticed no problems with the belts or anything. I ran for about 8000 miles, at least. I'm sure the crack was there long before the previous owner sold the car to me. Try and get a new pulley, but if it's not possible anytime soon, you'll probably be fine.

Well, the odometer reads 261,865.1 miles. However, the transmission only has 221,XXX miles. The longblock only has 116,XXX miles. The water pump, clutch assembly, and flywheel only have ~324-500 miles, since they're brand new. Man, it's gonna get hard to keep track of all this.

Like with my old EA81, you can just mount a Gatorade bottle or something similar in the engine bay and use that until you get a better container. Would be a good idea to keep the cap on the bottle, cut a hole in the cap, and shove the hose through the cap. Keep the bottle half full with clean coolant. It'd also be a good idea to bleed the cooling system too. Once you get an overflow setup and have added coolant, bleed the system. Doubt you have air in the system, but it doesn't hurt to do so. With the car off and cool, open the radiator cap. Turn the heater up to the hottest temperature setting, but leave the fan turned off. Start the car, and rev it at a few thousand RPM, whilst keeping the radiator topped off with coolant. If you have air in the system, you'll see it bubbling. Hold the RPMs there until the cooling fan turns on, put the radiator cap on, and go for a drive.

Yup, that sounds like your overflow tube. It usually hooks up to the overflow tank. My old EA81 just had that hose in a Gatorade bottle that was bungee corded in the engine. However, keep in mind that the radiator cap works in two ways. As the engine gets hot, the coolant expands and the radiator cap lets out coolant to relieve pressure, as stated above. But when the engine cools down, the radiator cap sucks fluid back in from the overflow, to keep the radiator topped off. So if your overflow hose isn't sitting in a container with clean coolant, you'll gradually lose coolant over time and you'll have to continue adding more. Someone correct me if I'm wrong because old cars are different. My '81 GL was the oldest car I've ever owned, followed by my '90 Loyale which has an overflow tank. Here is a picture of my EA81's overflow, when the engine terminally failed.

Depends on your audience too. If you just posted this on Craigslist, don't expect to get more than $1000 for it. Obviously, people on here understand the value more than others. But to a stranger who knows nothing about Subarus, it's just another old car with problems. Personally, I'd put a price tag between $1000 and $2000. It's been said above, but don't expect to get your money back from all the things you replaced.

I can't help you with the problem, sorry. But if you are still wondering: CEL = Check Engine Light

Are those front mud flaps I see on your wagon? If so, if you take 'em off, I'll buy them off of you.

I might stop by. Again, I'll be there late in the day. I wish I could camp the night, but I have work in the morning, so I gotta head back home, up north. But I might stop by.

Nice RX! I probably can't help you with anything or sell you any parts, but I definitely want to follow this thread. Have fun with this project, and I'll definitely be looking for updates!