jj421

I see. So you're looking for the feet that would fit those bars and on the EA82 body? The bars can be easily bought on other sites, but I'm not sure about the feet. I do believe the feet in the original link you posted will work though. You can get them and see if they work. If not, ship 'em back. Quite expensive for just the feet though. I'm assuming that you've been checking the junkyard(s) for a roof rack, correct?

I know for a fact that the Yakima 1A bars will fit on an EA81. Probably would fit an EA82 as well. But those are round bars, not square (if you have a preference). I wish I knew the model of the bars I had. But I'm sure if you go through Thule's older stuff, you'll find it.

I think it will, but don't quote me on that. It looks like that's just the feet, so make sure you get the bars separately too.

I was thinking it would engage as soon as the lever is put in the low position. My old EA81 had a D/R, and it took a few seconds for the low indicator on the dash to light up. But when stopped, in neutral, with the clutch in, I can easily get into and out of 4WD Hi and Lo. With the low indicator, I didn't see a wire on the harness by the transmission. I haven't checked with a light to see if it's on the instrument cluster though. It doesn't matter much to me though. If the low range is engaged once the lever is in position, then I don't need an indicator. I can just look down and see. I don't think I've seen any junkyard Soobs with a light gray, except for DLs and Loyales. Maybe one day, but until then, I'm happy with this. There is a bit of free play in the clutch cable right now. Although I think maybe a bit too much. After driving for a bit, I feel like there's a little too much free play in the clutch pedal. And yes, I did change out the fluid. What I meant with the lake of oil is this: as I was jacking up the transmission to line it up to the engine, there was leftover gear oil that didn't get drained out from the donor car, and it all poured out the back where the driveshaft goes. I didn't notice this, and when I did, there was a mess on the garage floor. Not very fun to roll around in. So far, this tranny is not leaking any oil, which is good. I think I'll still take it easy at least for the first 100 or 200 miles. Now I've got about 50 miles on the clutch, and it feels fine, but I still want to baby it a little longer. I definitely know not to burn the clutch. That's why I don't let anybody drive the car besides myself. Although just a clutch replacement would be less work than a whole transmission replacement, I don't want to take the tranny/engine apart like this for a while. And yes, I think I found my new avatar:

I never engage 4WD when on a hard surface. In fact, I've never really used the 4WD. Used it for the Christmas tree run last year, and maybe one other time. But for the most part, I don't have the time to drive somewhere, since Sammamish is full of houses. Plus, I'd want someone else with me in the event that I get stuck. I guess it'll be just nice to have the low range. I have this weekend off of work, so I might go out and get some dirt or mud under my wheels. Oh, one thing to ask: since I do not have a "Lo" indicator on my dash, is there a good way to ensure it gets into the low range? I've heard "stopped, neutral, clutch in" is the best for the tranny to engage into the low range. Do I have to sit for a couple seconds to let it engage, or is it engaged into the low range once the lever is in place?

Thanks! Again, surprised I got this done with the limited tools that I have. Most of my tools are in a 2XX piece Craftsman kit. I will say though, I am seriously glad I bought pry bars, a bigger breaker bar, and some penetrating oil. Without those, it would've been even more difficult. Those were pretty much the only things I bought though. Everything included, this entire thing costed me just under $500. When I went for my test drive, I am pretty sure I had a smile on my face the entire time. What I'm not looking forward to is cleaning up all my tools. And the lake of gear oil in my garage. I also like how the console parts are fairly close to my car's interior. I noticed a few weeks ago that sometime in the car's life, the console around the handbrake had been changed, since it's a more bluish gray. This works out great because the D/R console parts are bluish gray too. Correct me if I'm wrong, but weren't Loyales and DLs the only ones with the light gray interior, like what I have? I haven't seen a Loyale or a DL with a D/R, so I doubt I'll find light gray D/R console parts. Doesn't matter though; it's close enough, and you don't really notice the color difference.

Officially got 20 miles on the new clutch. The clutch is a little more sensitive than my old one, which I like and don't like. I like the higher sensitivity, but I don't like how much easier it is to stall. The biting point and pedal free play are to my liking though. I've noticed this gear shifter is a little more forward than the push button was. Took a couple miles to get used to. Also, I can't rest my hand on the handbrake as easily, since the 4WD shifter is kinda in the way. Speaking of which, haven't engaged the 4WD yet besides my test runs when the car was in the air, but I'll get to that soon. Might hit some light trails this weekend. Oh, one thing I love, is when I push in the clutch, the RPMs fall slower than before. With my push button, I would go to change gears, and the RPMs would fall so fast that they'd be under the revs of the next gear. If that makes sense... Other than that, haven't noticed much else with the transmission. It shifts nicely, although I feel like the gears are a little "looser" than my push button was. Not loose enough to really complain though. Noticed some other things though. For one, no matter what climate control setting it's on (like defog), the air blows out the vents. I'm thinking this has something to do with me accidentally breaking the valve on the white canister near the passenger side firewall. I was prying the transmission, and I heard a distinct crack. Look over, and the white thing was cracked. Add that to the "things to pull at the junkyard" list. I also knocked my passenger side fender mirror loose, so gotta tighten that. By the way, doing this with fender mirrors was a pain! Otherwise, the only thing was the exhaust, which I now LOVE. When cruising, idling, or coasting in neutral, the engine is nice and quiet. When coasting in gear, it sounds like a truck's jake brake. When accelerating, I can hear that EA82, which is great! Drove through "downtown" and heard some guys yell "Yeah!!" as I drove past. I like being noticed, haha. Loosen the cable? Hmm, must be different than an EA81. I used to tighten it on my old GL. Oh well, hopefully I won't have to adjust it for a while. But that's a good note for the future. I haven't read anything about breaking in a clutch here on the USMB, but I have with other cars on other sites. Either way, I'm going to avoid situations that are hard on the clutch (like steep hills and hard offroading), at least for the first few hundred miles. I think freeway driving should be fine though. I'm also gonna keep it under 4000 RPM for the first few hundred miles. As far as I'm concerned, it's not gonna hurt the clutch to baby it. Thanks! I think the tranny swap isn't that bad, depending on how you do it. The way I did it, definitely was difficult. Removing the engine would probably make it easier. All in all, it wasn't too bad. Just wish it didn't take me five days to finish. Next time I'll know what to do.

Well, to my honest surprise, the car started and ran!!! Gained an exhaust leak, but hey, now I can hear the car when going through the gears. But yeah, I'm honestly surprised that it started. I'm surprised I did everything correct. With all four wheels in the air, it successfully started, wheels turned through all five gears + reverse, 4WD Hi worked, and 4WD Lo worked. Reverse lights, speedometer, and the 4WD indicator worked, so I hooked up the wires correct. Really the only thing that is different than the way it was before is the exhaust leak, which I really don't mind. I reused the gaskets at the y-pipe, and upon installation, one of the gaskets got skewed. So I was definitely expecting a leak. But again, I don't mind. I like being able to listen to the engine through all the gears. Sounds like my old '81 GL, so I've got nostalgic exhaust leaks. Anyways, thanks you guys for all your help. I probably wouldn't have been able to do this without you. AKghandi/lockpickman, you are getting a shoutout on YouTube when I finally upload the video. I should get an initial start video uploaded this week. For my first time doing a clutch replacement, first time doing a transmission replacement, and this being my biggest repair to date, I am extremely proud of myself. Although it was just a bolt-in replacement, it was difficult for me. Like any other repair, I have learned things through this. I read somewhere about breaking in a new clutch. What do you guys do right after a clutch replacement? I'm not gonna go test the 4WD Lo in the mountains tonight, but what about higher RPMs and freeway driving? I read you should take it easy and do more city driving for the first 300-500 miles. Your opinions? Anyways, I'm gonna stop typing. Gonna lower the car off the jackstands that it has been sitting on for the past five days, and go for a drive!

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Wow, I can't believe I didn't even tighten them down. I feel stupid (also grateful) on so many different levels. I thought about tightening it down, but then I thought, "you're supposed to tighten it down as the clutch wears, so I don't think that'd fix it." Went out there, spent one minute tightening the nut, and suddenly, my clutch pedal feels like normal. Not sure if it's obvious, but I am very very very very very happy I don't have to take the car apart again. Words can't even describe how much frustration and hatred you just prevented. Just annoys me how I didn't even try this simple, easy thing before posting. Now, gotta move on to the stupid speed sensor, which I guess isn't necessary to test the car, but I don't want to forget about it. Time to put the tires back on. Thanks again!

Yes, the clutch fork moves easily. I can push it all the way back with one finger (without the return spring on). I'll try tightening it down, but I don't necessarily see how that'd work. Right now though, the adjusting nuts are basically at the beginning of the threads. I used an Exedy 15008 kit, which is the OEM kit for 4WD transmissions. I'm thinking maybe the clips that hold the TOB came off or something, although I didn't hear anything.

So I managed to get the clutch cable on. However, the clutch pedal just drops to the floor, then slowly returns because of the return spring on the clutch fork. If I go out there, I can easily move the clutch fork by hand, which I don't know if I'm supposed to or not. I feel like it should be really tight. The clutch cable is on properly, besides this: How is this supposed to go on? I can sorta see it in one of the pictures posted earlier, but I can't get this to clip on tight. It just hangs there on the cable. However, I'm scared I will have to pull the car apart again. Flywheel went on correct, pilot bearing went in fine, pressure plate and disc installed the right way, TOB and clutch fork installed fine. I'm hoping this clip solves the problem, but I doubt it. Edit: Okay, managed to get the clip installed. However, the clutch pedal still drops to the floor, and the clutch fork moves freely.

Hmm, that's kinda odd. Guess I'll have to try that when I get home. Thanks for the tips! Hopefully they'll work.

Again, maybe next time. It doesn't seem like much more work, but I just didn't feel like doing it, haha. The work required doing it this wasn't too much, although having a second person would help greatly. Maybe next time I need some help, I can message you? On another note, the car is pretty much all set. Everything is back on except for the clutch cable and the speedometer cable. Literally, these are the only things holding me back from testing the car. I can't get the speedo cable threaded back in, as it keeps popping out. No matter what I do, it won't go in. And then the 10mm nut on the clutch cable is stuck. I can't back it off to fit the cable over the fork. Any tips towards either of these things? Time to change my avatar too. Can't be having a picture of a push-button gear stick when that's no longer what I have, haha.

Yeah, I left the engine bolted in on the mounts. The general consensus is pulling the engine makes things so much easier. But I don't feel comfortable with removing the engine, or even just moving it forward. Maybe next time though. Not to mention, I don't have very many tools. I don't even have a chain. The fact that I managed to get this far with basic tools is what surprises me.

Any tips on this problem? I can't quite get the tranny to sit flush on the engine. It's about as far away as the above picture, but I can't move it any further forward. It's on the bottom bolts, and looks to be evenly lined up top to bottom. But it just won't go forward. I tried moving the flywheel a couple times, but no luck. Edit: I managed to get it. For future readers, I lined up the two bottom studs, and then with the jack at the back of the tranny, I wrestled the transmission so I could get the two nuts on those studs. Having a second person helps. After I got the nuts started, I jacked up the rear a little bit, started the top bolts, and tightened them all down using the "lug-nut" method. It was a great sight seeing the transmission and engine mate together, especially after four days of work. Hopefully from here, it's easy. I'm honestly scared to start my car, for fear that the flywheel or clutch will just blow up or something. Oh, and another thing for future readers. Go to the Subaru dealership and get new clips that keep the throw-out bearing onto the clutch fork. Mine were old and could not keep tension. Put brand new ones on, and the TOB seems to be fine. They're $11 for two of them (in Bellevue, WA, anyways). Part number: 30539AA000 (all zeros)

Hit another roadblock. Whilst trying to line up the tranny to the engine, Found a stud on the transmission was hitting a stud on the engine. Kinda hard to see in the picture, but I think when the D/R was being taken off of the donor car, it took the engine stud with it. Or maybe when I was taking off the old tranny, the stud came out of the tranny and is stuck in the engine. Either way, any tips? EDIT: Kinda answered my question. Watched MilesFox's eleventh video, which at 2:15, he specifically states about the dowels. Gonna do what he said: take a 3/16th punch (same one used for axle roll pins) to punch out the dowel on the tranny side. For anyone in the future who is reading this thread, the video is here. EDIT #2: Went out, used the punch, no luck. Tried hammering, screwdrivers, punches, etc. Lowered the tranny a bit to give room, but it's not dropped out yet. I'd hate to drop it, but I think I might have to. EDIT #3: Never mind, managed to punch out the dowel on the tranny side. Used a 1/4" punch (3/16" was too small), a bit of penetrating oil, a good hammer, and a ton of patience. Let the swap continue. I've got the best motivation to finish this tonight. If I don't get my car running, I'm going to have to go to school tomorrow in my mom's Explorer. While that may not sound bad, her Explorer has an interlock system on it (like a breathalyzer, and you must blow to start the car). Must finish!

Yes, that helps! Thanks a ton! That's how I figured it went on, but just wanted to make sure. Home from work now, and I'm determined to get this finished tonight.

That'd be great if you could!

Alright, well, I have managed to fix the TOB (I hope) and got the new transmission jacked up and lined up. Silly me, though, because I forgot to connect the two of the three reverse/4WD light plugs, so I gotta lower the tranny a bit to access them. But all in all, I'm surprised at how well this is going and I'm proud of myself for making it this far, haha. From now on, it's pretty much putting everything back together. I gotta go to work now so I can't look it up, but does anyone have a picture of the clutch cable where it goes through the clutch fork? Like, where you adjust the clutch? I didn't realize until now that there are quite a few washers and spacers and things, so I don't quite remember how it goes back on.

As far as I know, you tighten the nut as the clutch wears, which raises the biting point. At least that was how it was with my old '81 GL. I haven't actually adjusted my clutch on here, since it's been unadjustable since the day I bought the car. But I'm sure it's similar. I've hit a little roadblock. While maneuvering the new transmission under the car, I guess the release fork got caught somewhere, which caused the clips on the TOB to go flying in my garage. I've managed to recover two, but one of them is too big and doesn't hold the TOB tight enough. Oh, and I guess another roadblock. I need someone to help me life the transmission back onto the engine, haha.

Still in the process of it, but いぜん (Izen) got a new clutch and flywheel. As well as putting in a 5-speed D/R.

I haven't had any problem with my suspension... yet. I've had to do a little work on it, and it does seem like it'd be very frustrating. I seem to get frustrated quite easily when working on cars. Trying to control that, and so far, this entire tranny swap has gone flawlessly. I haven't gotten pissed off at the metal yet. I hope I don't have to do rear suspension work soon. Or any work in the rear. When I was disconnecting the driveshaft, I saw that everything back there was old and crusty. Seemed like no matter how much penetrating oil you spray, the bolts back there will fight you. Yeah, speaking of alignment, will I have to get one? As you can see in the second picture above, I disconnected the thru-bolt on the lower control arm. I've also undid the two 16 mm bolts for that guiding rod up near the tranny cross member. Also, are those parts fine to reattach in the air, or should I put the car back down on the ground before attaching 'em? I want to test the transmission with all four wheels up in the air, so I can the 4WD working (if it does). Again, I'm surprised at how easy the transmission pull is. If I was doing an auto-to-manual swap, that'd be a different story. I'm sure that's got more difficulties involved. Yeah, I am pretty young. I'd love to become an auto mechanic. The only problem is, old Subarus are fairly different than most cars, so they're not really a good place to practice things. But I'd definitely love to go to a college and work on cars for a living. I'd like to work at a Subaru dealership eventually, but at least specialize in Subaru and Japanese makes. Got the flywheel off. Time to put things back together. Surprisingly, my clutch disc didn't look in horrible shape. But yet, there were no threads left on the clutch adjustment screw.

Yeah, I thought that was my steering rack. My power steering fluid is good, I believe. Haven't checked it in a while, now that I think of it. I haven't had any problems with my wheel being difficult to turn, although, when stopped or moving slowly, it makes noises as I turn the wheel. The noises change pitch the faster/slower the RPMs. I would love to throw a manual steering rack in, since I am not a fan of power steering. But they're just so hard to find. I think the only EA82s with manual steering were '85-'87 if I remember correctly. Thanks for the names of the components. I'm slowly getting to learn all the suspension components. I find the suspension to be the one area I don't do any work on, so I don't learn the parts and what they do. Been watching a lot of EricTheCarGuy on YouTube, so I'm starting to get familiar with it, haha. And yes, I'm doing this by myself. It'd be nice to have someone with me, especially someone with experience, but to be honest, it's not as hard as I thought it was. I think lining up the new transmission to the engine will be a chore, but with enough patience I should get it. It's my first time doing this, and my biggest project to date. As a 17-year-old, I have very little experience, so I'm surprised that I've gotten so far. One last thing to do: take off the flywheel. Then I'll be putting everything else back on.

Bump and update. It's been a while since I've updated this thread, but I've started work on the swap. Removed the bell housing bolts, the starter motor, the cross member bolts, the axles, the drive shaft, the front of the exhaust, the interior parts, etc. The only thing(s) I haven't done is disconnect the electrical plugs, and get the transmission out. Now, I couldn't help but notice the white connector has four wires on the push button, and six on the D/R. Will I just have to cut the wires and splice them together? Then, another thing is, what vacuum lines am I looking at disconnecting. I took off the two hoses going up to around the fuel filter, but that's it. The last big thing I can think of, is I can't get the bottom of the bell housing separated. It's just not coming off the studs. Jacking up the rear end of the transmission helped, but not much. Any tips? If anyone is nearby and wants to come over and help, I'd truly appreciate it! On a side note, I couldn't help but notice this boot, which is for the power steering, correct? It's got grease and all that stuff flung from it (not the axle), which is not good. The passenger side is "clean." Edit: With a bit of persuasion and use of my jack, I got my transmission out! I now need to do my clutch and flywheel, and I'm ready to put the new one in.

Hmmm, I'd probably pay $2500 for that. I'm no expert appraiser though. I think the value would go up though if it was a 5 speed D/R. But I think the clean, straight body will be worth something.