jj421

It seems like a lot of people don't like the stock hubcaps. I like them. I think they look good. The only thing I hate about them is taking them off and putting them back on when taking off and putting on the wheel.

I think I have a good chance of finding a Soob with cruise at a junkyard. I've never been at a Pick-N-Pull that doesn't have one. Last Saturday, 1 of 5 of the EA82s there had cruise. The time before that, ~5 of 10. The time before that, ~3 of 5. So I'd say a good 30%-40% of the EA82s in the junkyards here have cruise. I hate how the dealer and factory installations are so different. It limits the number of people that can help me and the number of Soobs I can pull parts off. Oh well. Hopefully I'll get this set up soon. I don't like cruise control because I take it as a "luxury," but I think it'd be neat to have and I'll use it from time to time. But yeah. Saturday I don't work, so I'll head up there and see what I can find. In the meantime, I'm still looking for diagrams/pictures. I can take a look at the system from the car I pull it off of, but if I don't know where anything goes, having the parts won't help much. :-p

That's what I was afraid of. Dang, well that sucks then, haha.

Sweet, that'd be great. I don't think dealer installed cruise control has controls on the wheel, but I don't think it's difficult to put that in. But is the setup different between factory and dealer, since the dealer setup is independent?

I'm going to start off by saying I don't have a single clue about how the cruise control system is set up in an EA82. I've never even thought about installing a cruise control in my Loyale before, but recently I thought it would kind of a neat addition. Yesterday, I picked up some parts for the cruise control system from Skylar. I guess it was a dealer installed kit, as he said the controls were under the rear defrost button. This is what I picked up: It looks like I have the "brain" (wire is cut), throttle actuator (he also gave me the little chain thing, but I don't know exactly where that goes), and the black sphere thing. Which I guess is 80% of what I need. I believe I need the brake switch, clutch switch, and the switches to actually turn on/off the cruise control. So basically what I need to know is: -What else I need -Where these things go -How they're hooked up -Where the vacuum/electrical lines go to, and how they get there I've searched and searched, but can't find any diagrams or anything. If someone could post a diagram, or pictures of their cruise control setup in their car, that'd be amazing. I'll probably head to the Pick-N-Pull this weekend to see about getting the controls for the cruise control, as well as the brake/clutch switches. But if anyone has these parts that they don't need/want, speak up. So yeah, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Saw this XT today at the Lynnwood Pick-N-Pull. I wonder if it belongs to someone on here? Yeah, not the best photo, but I figured I'd upload it. And then here are photos of my old '81 GL. I miss that car.... If I had it right now, I would take much better care of it. First four photos are the day after I bought it. Last photo is the day it died. Oil got into the coolant. Had to junk it to get the money to get to school the next week.

Hahahaha I would want to make my exhaust louder, so that way I can hear the best coming out. But I just need to kick the RPMs up. Tonight I was driving on the road and decided to do a "drive-by" next to a bus stop with people waiting. Driving along at 2000 RPM, nobody looked. Revved it up to 4500 RPM, and it turned some heads. It sounds more mean at 5000 RPM than our Mustang.

I took out the fuse this morning, and drove to the Pick-N-Pull (about a 40 minute drive) with the defog on the entire time. I noticed that it did help the high idle. With the defog on, it would idle at about 1100 or so, which is higher than the usual 800 RPM idle, but that could be because of the long freeway journey. I was curious about the 4WD so I went out there and tested it. Pushed the 4WD button. The 4WD indicator lights on the instrument cluster lit up, the RPMs dropped a tad bit, and I could hear the solenoid (I believe) engaging the 4WD. So that's all working fine. On another note, what size wrench is needed to take off the coolant temp sensor? At the Pick-N-Pull, all the EA82s there had CTSs, so I started working on the cleanest, newest looking one (car only had 130,000 miles). It was a pain to get to, and when I finally did, I didn't have the right size wrench. The largest I had was a 15mm, and some guy let me borrow his 16mm. It almost fit, but the nut on the CTS was just slightly bigger, like an American wrench slightly bigger than 16mm. None of us had a 17mm wrench nor any American sizes similar to 16mm, so I had to leave without a CTS.

Hmm, that's a good point. I've noticed after driving hard with high RPMs, mine idles at about 1100 or so. Normally it'd idle at about 800. Also, to touch back on the point about gas mileage. I believe I'm getting better gas mileage now that I'm revving it higher. Drove to and from Lynnwood today and it didn't seem like I used as much gas as normal. Oh well. Driving faster get you better gas mileage? I don't have a problem with that.

Yeah, I think I can only pull a CTS off of an EA82 non-turbo. One of the CTSs on RockAuto said "W/O TURBO," so I believe they do vary. I don't really like pulling engine parts off of turbo wagons since quite a few parts are different. Wait, so that 20 amp fuse on the passenger side is the fuse for the A/C? I don't see it marked "A/C" anywhere, so I'll take your word for it. I've wondered what that fuse was there for. I took out the fuse, so I'll see how it goes on my way to the Pick-N-Pull today.

I've been starting to shift upwards of 4000k now too, and yes, it is like a normal car. It doesn't seem like my gas mileage has changed though. I don't notice the gauge going down any more than it has before. But I guess I'll have to wait and see over the next week. Full throttle every other day probably doesn't help the MPGs much. :-p

Yeah, so it looks like the one from O'Reilly is $87, is an Import Direct Ignition, and would take a day to show up. However, on RockAuto, there is an Airtex/Wells sensor for $70, and an Ultrapower sensor for $37. Both would, of course, take a week to arrive at my house. Would these different brands really affect anything, or is the CTS "just a sensor," and it doesn't matter what brand you choose? I wanna go off of RockAuto because 1) it's cheaper and 2) I wanna buy an air filter, some spark plugs, and spark plug wires off of there as well. So basically the only way to fix the defog idle issue is to put the compressor back in? I'll look for a fuse, but I think that could prevent the defog from turning on as well. And believe me, I need the defog. Oh well, not really a big deal. Not as bothersome as my cold idle issue.... All I need is a good way to prevent fog from building up on the windows and it won't be a big issue. I'll check the resistance when it's light out. Where would I find the charts to see if it's in spec? Thanks for the help! *EDIT* I just had a great idea. Tomorrow I'll go pull some CTSs off of various Subarus at two Pick-N-Pulls tomorrow. I don't know why I didn't think of it before, haha.

Yeah, there was a sensor for $15 or whatever it was and another one for $80 or so. So I'm guessing it's the more expensive one then? See, I took the A/C compressor out of my car, so I'm guessing that would be the reason then. I never needed the defog before I took it out, so I can't say what it was like before. But the compressor wasn't hooked onto a belt, so that was one of the reasons why I took it out.

Yeah, I've been thinking about the coolant temp sensor, since now matter how much carb cleaner I spray into my IACV, it doesn't fix the issue much. I've replaced the IACV with a cleaner looking, junkyard IACV from Skylar, but that doesn't seem to have changed anything. That, again, leads me to believe the CTS. Looks like a CTS is $16 from O'Reilly, and a thermostat isn't more than $10, so I might replace both of them this weekend and see if it fixes it. From what I've read, the CTS is right next to the thermostat, so it'd make sense to replace both at the same time. I probably clean up the connector to the CTS as well (should be the green plug, right?) since that can cause problems too, I've heard. Am I correct in thinking that I need to drain the coolant before replacing the CTS? I remember reading that somewhere. And is there any way to test the CTS? Well, I guess it wouldn't matter, since I don't see any harm in replacing it. I know how to test the thermostat, but again, no harm in just replacing it. The temp gauge starts to go up once the car starts to idle, I think. I don't really look at the temp gauge often. But I believe it takes about ten minutes to start going up. Yeah, I'd like to fix the high idle on defog problem. I mean, unless I'm blanking out or something, the only thing that crosses my mind to cause that is a vacuum leak of some sort.

Well, no, I'm disappointed because it feels really fast in my car, since I'm used to the slow, grandma acceleration I've been dealing with the past 7 months. It feels like I'm driving a Ferrari or something, but in reality, I'm not going any faster than anyone else. :-p

It's been a while since I tapped into this thread, but since then, I've learned a few things. First, and foremost, full throttle feels amazing! I've noticed with full throttle, under 4000 RPM, I can feel the torque pulling me along. Over 4000 RPM, it's more the horsepower pulling me along, but with such few horsepower, it's not as powerful than I would like. I feel more of a pull at lower RPM, which I like better. To comment on the above post, I love the sound at high RPMs. At idle, my car sounds like a Prius: very quiet. At 5000 RPM, it sounds more mean than our Mustang. I'm still disappointed though, because at full throttle, I'm not accelerating any faster than the traffic. I guess other people seem to have a lead foot. :-p

^^^ Yes, you don't need to get a new switch or anything. From what I've read, just take apart that cluster and move the needle, by hand, back to the zero position. I think what happens (based on what I've read) is some electrical connection grounds out, and the needle drops to below zero. Then it's like that until someone fixes it. I have the issue in my car, but haven't done anything about it. There are too many things to remove for me (I'm kinda lazy), and I don't see it being worth doing. These oil pressure gauges aren't all too accurate (again, from what I've read), so they're almost useless. It's better to get an aftermarket gauge and get a better reading. What I would do too, is while you have the cluster out of the dash, replace the backlighting to LEDs (Loyale 2.7 Turbo did a write-up of how to do so, along with how to take out the instrument cluster, here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=136231). This way, you knock out two birds with one stone.

I was originally gonna start a new thread about my idle issue, but I figured I would just tap into this one, since it's a similar issue. So it looks like what you guys are talking about is the car idling high when the engine is cold. My car does the opposite. If it does manage to idle, it'll idle low. So basically what happens is in the cold, morning hours, I go out to my car, start it, and have to hold the gas down for 10 minutes or so until, like flicking a switch, the engine decides to idle normally. And yes, that's 10-15 minutes; not the 5 minute wait time you guys seem to be having. Now, I don't have the time, patience, or [gas] money to be revving my engine for 10 minutes almost every time I start the car (since it is going on winter). So what I usually do is rev it until it'll idle at about 600 RPM, then I start driving. I know, not good for the engine. The annoying thing is, is whenever I have to push in the clutch, the RPMs fall fast, causing the car to stall. I have to feather the throttle to keep the engine alive. After about 10-15 minutes of driving, it'll suddenly idle like normal. Sometimes this happens when I'm waiting at a red light, and it will be like a switch is being flipped inside the engine and is telling it that it's okay to idle normally. So yeah, any ideas? Here is a video of me starting the engine. It wasn't too cold out, maybe about 50 degrees. I can't imagine just how bad this will be in the snow.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A58W678jWnc&feature=youtu.be Another slight issue I have is when the engine is idling normally, if I have the defog on, it'll idle at about 2000 RPM. Once I switch it to the "HEAT" setting, it'll drop back down. It's kinda annoying going to shift gears and the RPMs basically stay where they are until you let the clutch out. Any ideas towards this? I have a feeling of a vacuum leak, but is anyone else having a similar problem? Sorry for the long post, and I don't mean to hijack this thread or anything. Just saving myself from posting yet another new thread. Oh, and you guys were talking about 0-60 videos? I haven't done one in my Loyale yet, but I did one in my old '81 GL. A whopping 23.56 seconds. It had an exhaust leak and a host of engine problems, so I would say it did pretty good. And I guess I should've started in first gear, but first was so short, and the only way I could get into first gear without it grinding is if I put it in gear at precisely 9-12 MPH. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZiGNmSvFto

Wow, you rev the engine pretty high. I find that in first gear, revving it more than 3000 doesn't seem to make a huge difference in power, at least not like the other gears. But I don't punch the gas; I'm very gentle. Yeah, if you basically redline the engine all the time, you will get a large power output from the car, hahaha. If you put a rev limiter at 1200 RPM on a Pagani Zonda, you could call that car "gutless." All this talk makes me wanna go out to my car and take a drive, trying to rev higher.

The most I've ever revved in my car is 4000 RPM, and I gotta say, I could really feel the power at those speeds. I just don't rev high because I'm too concerned with MPGs.... Even though I've been told that revving at higher speeds will eventually make my MPG go up. Oh, and my clutch doesn't seem to like the high RPMs. Gonna get a new one soon. I can carry one light-weight passenger fine, but if I have a lot of weight in the car, I can't really make it up hills, haha. I can feel the engine doesn't like the added stress. Not to mention the cars behind me don't like the slower acceleration. Even though I am usually the only one in my car, I still just try and avoid hills all together.

For me, I usually shift at 2800-3200 RPM into the next gear. I had a conversation when I first bought my Loyale about shifting. So I still shift a little early, but I've definitely gotten the RPMs up since I first bought the car. I increase my rev speed almost every week, albeit not by much. So yeah, shift at engine speeds upwards of 3500 RPM or more. Oh, and I am running about 2750 RPM at 60 MPH. At 65, my tachometer reads about 3000, in fifth gear, that is.

Haha, one time I put my drink up there, and I turned a little fast out of the drive thru. My entire drink spilled on the passenger floor board. I think that was the last time I tried to drive with a drink.

Okay, sweet, thanks! I plan on getting one of those cheap $7 kits that come with tubing and a container, so hopefully that'll work okay. I guess I'll gravity bleed then vacuum bleed. I definitely want some new fluid going through the system. And of course; I knew about keeping the MC topped off. Again, thanks!

Okay, this may seem like a really easy thing to do. But I just wanna make sure I get this right. So my brake pedal in my Loyale is pretty mushy. Have to push the pedal down a bit to get decent braking power. I've got enough pressure to lock up the wheels, but that's if I slam on the brakes on a rainy day. So I was thinking of getting one of those cheap one-man brake bleeding kits and bleed my brakes. Would like to get some new brake fluid going through the system too, as the fluid I have in my car doesn't look, "clean." Basically, I wanna know in what order I bleed the brakes in. Which wheel first, second, third, fourth. After searching a bit, it looks like Subaru has a diagonal brake system, so you have to bleed the brakes in a diagonal pattern. But I'm still just a little unclear on the order. I'd also like to know if I can bleed the brakes with the wheels on and the car on the ground. Maybe I'm fine lifting the car, but I hate taking off those dang hubcaps! Basically, could I do this in the parking lot of O'Reilly after I pick up the bleeding kit? Alright, thanks!

Yeah, I was on my phone so I couldn't see the pictures super well. The wagon looks even nicer on my computer! I like what you've done with the clock. I've thought about doing something similar. Maybe putting a GPS, a gauge, or something.