jj421

Thanks for the reply. Alright, I'll see with the fan. About the alternator though.... I took a look at it and I only saw two bolts, one of which looked like an adjusting bolt. I removed that bolt, but I still could not move the alternator in any direction. I know on the EA81, it's very simple, as I've done that. But I don't know about this. It doesn't look like I could move it in a way that would lose tension, only increase it. But yeah, I'll get a better look tomorrow.

Hey guys. I got a pretty simple problem, and ergo a somewhat stupid question, but I need this fixed ASAP. My car is a '90 Loyale, just so you know. So I was getting on the freeway today, and noticed white smoke from the back of the car. Pulled over and with the engine still running, took a peek under the hood. The belt was spinning very roughly. I had noticed weird noises with RPM changes all day, so I knew something was wrong. Anyways, I stopped the engine and took a look at the belt. The belt was torn at one place and almost ready to snap, as well as the fact that it seemed to have lost tension. Got a tow, and six hours later, I was back home (tow truck's hydraulics blew up as he was midway through unloading my car. ). It's dark now, so I can't really do much, but I was hoping someone could help me a bit with removing this belt. First, it is the V-belt, not the timing belt. The one that connects the alternator, power steering, crankshaft, and water pump together (the first one in the picture below). So what I'd like to know is, how to you remove tension and take off the belt? There is a radiator fan connected to the water pump (I believe), which prevents me from taking the belt out of the engine (once I somehow lose tension). Is there a quick way to disconnect the fan so I can take out the old belt and put the new one in? I noticed four nuts on pully near the fan, so disconnect those? Like I said, it's dark right now, so I haven't done much tinkering. I won't be able to until later tomorrow, so I figured that'd give some time for somebody to reply. I know it's a really simple task, but I can't seem to remove tension or pull the belt off the pullys, let alone get it past that radiator fan. Okay, thanks!

Woops, guess i must've missed that. Oh well, they're up and working now. This is probably one of the few times I'm actually gonna say this, but I want someone to cut me off! :-p Thanks again! I really appreciate it!

Multiple posts.... I don't usually do it, haha. Okay, I have put the car back together. Headlights and grill. Horns work perfectly! I really do have to say thanks for all your help guys! I can imagine, though, that I'm gonna get into an accident, the front end will crumple a bit, and the horns will ground out. It'll be a small fender bender or something and the horns will be just blaring. That'd be funny, and make good footage for my dash cam. :-p So yeah, hopefully I'll finally be heard on the road.

Okay, moved the horns to behind the grill. Managed to find mounting places that would allow the grill to fit over the horns (oh, and yeah, I moved both horns). Moved the wiring around a bit and managed to get both sides working beautifully. Only thing now is to put the headlights back in and hope the wiring doesn't ground out somewhere. :-p I used the mounting brackets that came with the horn, behind the grill. Under the headlamps, the horns were basically just being held in place by the force of the body and bumper squeezing it. Behind the grill, I have mounted them properly. But then I have to ask, what difference does it make? I believe it made a difference, but it shouldn't. The mounting brackets are metal, and connect to a metal screw on the horn, and touch metal on the body. So in theory, it should be grounding out like it was before. I don't know. As long as if they work, I don't care much. Let's just hope I can get the car reassembled without problems.

The only complication I can see with putting the horn(s) behind the grill is, is there gonna be enough room? For one, the Loyale's grill is really short and not very deep. Not a lot of space between the grill and the radiator. It'd definitely be louder, as the sound waves can just go straight forward.

I think the three-way connector for the ground wires was grounding out. Like I said earlier, last time I had the headlight out, there was still metal exposed on the connector, and based on it's location and how I probably positioned it, there's a good chance that touched the headlight, causing it to ground out. So that probably wasn't insulated well. I wish I could go out and mess with it, but it's nighttime.

Too bad I don't have an ohmmeter, haha. The horn is about 50% plastic, 50% metal. This is a picture of the horn: I have the entire metal back taped over, along with tape over the chassis where I'm placing the horn. I know in the instruction manual that comes with the horn, if your OEM wire setup is only one wire, then you ground the horn to itself. But the Loyale has two wires each. Tomorrow, I will take out the headlight, fix the connection issue, and put the headlight back in. If it doesn't work, I'm just gonna try moving the horn in between the grill and radiator, because then obviously my positioning is not working, haha.

I got these to work without a relay, but the horns grounded themselves when I put my light back in. The relay doesn't necessarily seem to make them louder, but I might have gotten used to them and forgot what my old horn was like. I do know, though, that when both horns work, it vibrates the car, like a rumbler siren, which I think is really cool. It's much more noticeable and sounds like a larger car. But see, these new horns aren't where the old ones were. The old ones were at the very edge of the car; pretty much under the side marker light. These ones won't fit there. There is a bumper support beam (I believe) right underneath the headlights, and I'm placing the new horns in the bumper on the other side of that (if that makes sense). So basically, I'm pushing the new horns in the bumper like the old ones, just in a different place. Although, now I'm thinking I should move it elsewhere. Keep the passenger side horn where it is, since it's working fine, but mover the driver's side underneath the grill, or maybe behind it. I think that's what I'll try. Shouldn't affect the sound too much.

Thanks for the reply. I know for a fact that the horns themselves aren't polarity conscious, as it states in the manual. I can quadruple check my wiring when I get the headlight out again, as there may have been a chance I did something wrong. I do believe that the horn is grounding on the light itself. I will say that the horn on the driver's side is not as far down as the other one, but that's because I cannot push it any farther down. I don't know if there is less space or the horn is bigger, but it's definitely a tighter fit than the other. That being said, I have gotten pushed down far enough that it seems like the headlight is clearing it. Not to mention all the metal parts on the horn are covered with tape, and now all the parts on the headlight itself where it can make contact are covered with tape. Last time I had the assembly out, I did notice the bottom side of one three way connector was exposed. I taped that over, but again, a connection must be off because the horn isn't functioning. I do believe it's a connection that's grounding itself, considering pretty much all the connections are around the headlight (except for the relay, of course). As far as I can tell, everything is taped over. But I just gotta fix the connection and try again.

I don't know, haha. It's just the driver's side horn is making contact, metal on metal, somewhere, I suppose. I taped over all the connections, all the metal on the horn, and even most of the headlight. I put it everything back and I guess a connection is off somewhere. Only the passenger side horn works. But that's okay for now since I need the car for work tomorrow, then I got three days off to mess with it. I think if I go in and fix the connection, it should work. The circuitry and system I have wired up seems to work. With the headlight out and the battery connected, it works just like normal. The horn doesn't come on until after you press the horn button. And both horns blare just like they should. But when I put the headlight back in, the moment the negative battery wire touches the terminal, the horn blares. And it's just the driver's side horn; not the passenger side. So that really leads me to believe the horn, or a wire is grounding somewhere when I put the headlight in. Once I take apart the headlight assembly tomorrow/the next day, and I fix the connection, it should work. But of course, with my luck, it won't. But for the short drive too and from work, I have the one horn working in case I need to use it. Sucks because it's the high tone horn, so it sounds just as sucky as the stock horns. :-p I'd say just the one horn is as loud as the two OEM horns. So nothing really gained, but nothing lost. I will say, however, that the times I've heard both the high and low tone horns going at the same time, it sounds awesome! It does sound like a mid-size sedan, or at least something larger. Can't really compare the loudness, since I've already forgotten how loud the OEM horns were, haha.

Ugh. Still can't get the headlights in. With headlight out, connect battery. Press the horn button; horn works fine. Put the headlight in. Put the spring in place on the top part of the headlight. Connect battery. Press horn button; horn works fine. Place adjusting screw on the left side of the headlight. Connect battery. Press horn button; horn works fine. Put the side marker light back in it's place. Connect battery. HOOOOORRRRRNNNNNNNN Disconnect battery quickly. Take apart headlight assembly. Tape over any possible spots for the horn to ground itself. Repeat the process. The passenger side headlight is in and aimed, but I can't get the driver's side. One time I almost got it, but I shut the driver's door and the horn started blaring. Ugh.

Yeah, I actually tried putting a 20 amp fuse in the fuse box, and basically it didn't register it. The hazards and horn won't work unless a 15 amp fuse is there apparently. Now I've got another small problem, haha. Whenever I put my driver's side head lamp assembly back in, if I touch the negative wire on the battery, the horn just blares. Take the headlight out, it returns to normal. So I guess the horn is grounding out or something. Needless to say, taking the headlight in/out constantly is very annoying.

Sweet! They're hooked up and working, for now. :-p Honked them for my sister to hear, and she jumped a little, haha. Hopefully when I put the head lamps back on and whatnot everything stays connected. Let's just say my wiring is not necessarily professional. Passenger side is okay, but the driver's side has a bunch of wires and I hope the head lamp goes back in without issue. Thanks for your help with it! I probably couldn't have done it without you, haha. I hate wiring stuff up and I am literally scared of electricity and sparks (hope I never have to get tasered one day ). I'm glad I got them working. I learned what a relay is used for, since I didn't know about them before hand. Also learned how to wire up horns and wiring with a relay. Always good to learn something.

I am using the negative wires from the original horns as the ground for the relay. If I ground the relay to the chassis, could I ground the horns to the chassis to make it work? Or would that make it so when I touch the negative wire on the battery to the terminal, the horns would just blast? I'm short like 4" of wire to complete the entire circuit.

I think I figured it out. I was grounding the horns to the chassis, whereas I needed to hook up the horn's ground to the OEM negative wire. Did that on one horn, plugged in the batter, pressed the horn, and it worked beautifully. So hopefully doing that to the other side will be the only thing I need.

I'm thinking it's the ground, but I'll check the connections. I manged to get a honk from one of the horns when I connected the battery, but it was for a split second and after, the relay just clicked. Both the inline fuse and the fuse under the dash are good, so no worries there.

Okay, I went out to NAPA and bought all the stuff I need. Wired it up. I connect the battery, and all is good. Then I press the horn button and nothing happens, besides the relay clicks. My best guess is that the horns aren't grounded, even though the ground wire is directly touching the chassis.

Okay, thanks for the reply. Yes, after I posted, I found a picture with a diagram for how relays work, and it did say I have it backwards. But it also said that the input and output are interchangeable. But I guess I'll wire it up properly to be sure it will work.

Okay, that's what I was thinking of using, because that's what the wiring diagram I had in the original post had in it. At least for me, the original image is not loading up, but that's what it had. Okay, let me make sure the wiring is correct. A wire goes from the positive terminal of the battery to a 20 amp inline fuse, then to the 87 terminal on the relay. The stock positive wires for the horns go to a y-connector, merging into one wire that goes to the 86 terminal on the relay. The stock negative wires for the horns go to a y-connector, merging into one wire that goes to the 85 terminal on the relay. Wires go from one terminal on each horn, to a y-connector, to the 30 terminal on the relay. And then each horn gets grounded to itself (according to the instructions that came with them). Well, here, I drew up a diagram of what I'm talking about (excuse my handwriting :-p ). This is based off what I can find online and whatnot. And thinking about it, the reason why the horns would always blow the fuse when I connected the battery is because the stock horn is a 15 amp fuse, whereas I think I need at least a 20 amp (hence the inline fuse). So I could probably put a 20 amp fuse in there and call it quits, but I'm gonna hook up the relay and whatnot. I hate wiring stuff and electricity, but I also hate being run off the road by a semi who can't hear my horn (I have a video on YouTube of that incident, haha). I definitely want the relay since it'll let the horn be at full volume, and it's probably better for the wiring as well. So yeah, thanks for the relay info. Hopefully I can pick one up at O'Reilly or NAPA. I know O'Reilly doesn't have y-connectors, so hopefully NAPA does. If any bit of my wiring is off, let me know. I think that is how it's hooked up, based on what I can see online. And along with the 20 amp inline fuse to the battery, I'm also gonna swap out the fuse under the dash with a 20 amp, to be safe. Oh, and what gauge wire should I use? I read a lot of 12 gauge wire being used online, so I'm thinking that's what I should use. Have a guess as to how much length in wire I need? Thanks again! I feel like I need way to much help here, haha. Hopefully this'll be the last thing for a while I post on here that I need help with. :-p

Yeah, but that doesn't say anything about a relay to use. I need to actually wire up a separate relay to get the most sound out of these horns and to make the horns work, period.

Hi there. I am trying to install a pair of Fiamm Freeway Blasters. I first tried cutting the original horn wires and directly hooking up the new horns. Well, it kinda work. At first, it worked. Then when I reinstalled my head lamps, the horns grounded out, causing them to blare at full volume until the battery is disconnected. Now though, every time I reconnect the negative terminal on the battery, the fuse blows, which without that fuse, the car won't start. Anyways, I'm gonna wire up the system with a relay. I need to know what relay to use, since the guys at O'Reilly aren't sure. Tomorrow, I'm going to a car electronics place (similar to Car Toys, where I will also go), as well as NAPA and see what they have to say. But until then, if you guys have hooked up new horns, what did you do? I found this diagram online for two Freeway Blasters, but it's for a motorcycle, not a car. But is this similar to what I have to do?

Ya know, I've been driving on my new axle nut now for ~50 miles, and I haven't heard a peep from my wheel area. Not saying that my cone washer isn't trash, but this temporary solution is lasting a lot longer than I imagined.

Well, I have access to the Chilton manual for free online, so it may be different to an actual paper copy. It's really in the last sentence, which has horns highlighted. I guess it says they may use relays. And I suppose it's not talking about the Loyale specifically; but rather in general, on most cars, those systems have relays. I might just install them, and hopefully they'll be at least a bit louder than the stock horns, but if nothing else, they'll have a more authoritative tone. If I could afford it, I'd put a train horn in my car.

Removing the head lamps seems more practical, except for the fact that I am annoyed with messing with the head lamps. But yeah, 'cause if I take off the bumper, I have to disconnect my offroad lights and take out the battery. Plus, I'm not even sure about getting to the four bolts to take off the bumper. I'll probably try taking out the headlamps. There's no relay? Well that pisses me off, haha. Somewhere in the Chilton manual it says something about a relay for the horn. And I figured since there are two horns stock, there ought to be a relay in there. I suppose I better save the trouble and pick up a relay and some wiring before I do the horns.