jj421

Haha, yup. Got like a 30 minute sun break. The rain makes good mud, though! As far as jacks, I don't have one. Stock jack isn't high enough, so it's just sitting in a shed. Honestly, the spare tire on my roof is just decoration. Thinking of stealing the bottle jack from my mom's Ford Explorer and seeing if that works. She doesn't have a spare tire, so why does she need a jack?

Recently found this beautiful, quiet, remote spot. And it's only 5 minutes from my house. To get here, you have to go through two 10" deep mud puddles, which these General Grabber AT2 tires do great in, surprisingly. I think, in my opinion, the only state that is more beautiful is Alaska. Western Canada is beautiful too.

Got some Rigid Industries D2 LED lights for my front bumper. WOW, these things are BRIGHT. They completely overpower the headlights, meaning I no longer need high beams (just use these). They're really small too, which I love. And LED, so low power consumption and a bright white color. These are the "driving" style, and they light up as far as the high beams do. But they also light up the entire road, to the sides of the road, and up in the trees. For the price of these lights, I could've bought another EA82 wagon, but they're well worth it! The pictures give you and idea as to how bright they are, but still not as bright as in person. They make a huge difference. Also got a brand new radiator too. Been two years, and I've finally had radiator issues. But now she runs really cool. So cold that I don't think the thermostat is opening, so I can't burp the heater core. The needle sits at 1/4 of the way up, at the most. Sometimes it's a bit colder. Guess I gotta wait for a warm day so I can properly bleed the system, but that ain't coming soon. Until then, I'm fine without heat. Might take off the clutch fan to bleed it, but this radiator does its job well! (BTW, oil pressure gauge isn't calibrated correctly, so it reads low) Oh, and I got my Head Trauma Inc. taillight guards in the mail too! Very useful, because if I broke my Finnish taillights, I'm not gonna find replacements easily (or cheaply). So the guards are added insurance so I don't damage 'em. The guards are quite strong and I can imagine they'll hold up nicely in an impact.

Maybe do it the other way. Put it in neutral and turn the front wheel(s) by hand. Pretty easy to turn. Now put it in gear and try again. If you notice no difference, put it in another [higher] gear and try again. If it gets harder to turn the wheel, you should be okay. Also, you're sure you have the pilot bearing on the flywheel? When I did my clutch swap, I stupidly forgot to put the pilot bearing in the new flywheel, so I had to take it all apart again. I would hook up the clutch cable, push in the clutch a few times and try it again. Did you have any issues with the clips that hold the TOB on the clutch fork? Probably not causing the problem, but I had issues with 'em not holding it tight enough, so I had to get new ones from the dealership.

Have hooked up this 1700 lb pop-up to my wagon. Can pull it and stop, albeit it's pretty sketchy. Haven't taken it out on the road, and probably won't. It would help if I had rear brakes:

I've got the Grabbers, and I'd highly recommend them! They do awesome in the snow and really good in most other terrains. If you go through mud a lot, the Grabbers won't do so well in the deep stuff, but otherwise, I love 'em!

I got mine from the dealership. For you Washington people, Chaplin's Subaru/Volkswagen in Bellevue has some knowledgeable people in the parts department. They found it within a couple minutes. Ordered two cone washers and two spring washers. Total was like $50 or something, but they took 25% off because they messed up on the shipping (twice). Seriously, Chaplin's is great. Somehow they found the part number for those "paper clips" holding the throwout bearing on the clutch fork. They found it within like 90 seconds and they had 'em in stock. I was impressed. Super friendly people too. High recommendation. Sorry, a little off-topic tangent there.

Noticed a noise a couple days ago when I started the car. Didn't think much of it. Yesterday morning, the noise got kinda worse, but I still drove to work. After I got off of work, I decided to see what the issue was. Opened the hood and started the engine. Clutch fan was wobbling about so much, it looked like it was gonna break. I shut it off, and noticed my water pump pulley was loose. Great... Wasn't too bad, so I started driving (trying to keep RPMs below 3K), but the noise kept getting worse. Eventually steam started coming out of my engine bay, temp gauge went up, etc. Pulled into the O'Reilly parking lot, only to find the engine bay covered in coolant. The water pump pulley was at like a 30 degree angle, pointing up. No way I could drive home now. Went into the O'Reilly and bought a new pump, gasket, o-ring, coolant, and sealant. Luckily they had it all in stock! With no other choice, I replaced the water pump in the parking lot. I don't have A/C, P/S, or timing belt covers, so it wasn't a daunting task. Took me about 1.5 hours (I love EA82s!!!). The guy next to me took about the same amount of time to change a light bulb on his Mercedes. Repair was successful, and it wasn't leaking. Was running hot on the way home, but I bled out the cooling system again and it's running cool again. I've had bad luck with O'Reilly water pumps, but hopefully this one will last. I didn't really have a choice to order a Japanese made pump. All in all, not bad for a roadside repair. Guys at O'Reilly were cool with it. Luckily all my coolant had expelled itself on the road, so I didn't have a mess to clean up. My old pump is absolute trash. The fins had damaged the pump, scraped metal, chipped holes in it. Seals are shot and one of the bearings fell out.

3. Again, you can get "slim" fog lights for under the bumper. As long as they don't hang below the license plate, you should be okay. Yes, they can still be damaged, but in the two years I've owned my wagon, I have not damaged my front license plate yet. As far ask the switch goes, I still have the setup that I posted a picture of in thread I linked to in my previous post. However, I plan to move the switches to the blank panel where the power mirror controls are supposed to go to. Once I add some offroad lights (plan on doing that next paycheck), I'm putting the light switch(es) next to the shifter or next to the radio. 4. Does a 2" lift make a difference? Heck yeah it does! For one, you've got a lot more clearance. My lift/tire combo has gained me 5"-6" of clearance at the rear diff, rocker panels, and front skid plate. You can go through deeper snow with the lift and you can go on more difficult trails. Also, with a lift, you can put bigger wheels/tires on the car. With 14" wheels, there's A LOT more tires available. A lot better offroad tires too. Lifting my car was one of the best things I've done. Looks awesome (I've gotten a lot of compliments from strangers), wide variety of tires available (my tires are awesome in all terrains besides deep mud), and the ground clearance lets me go lots of places (really useful since I live out in a semi-rural area). 5. To mount the fender mirrors, you drill two holes in the fender. The mirror itself has two studs on it, which you put through the holes and put nuts on the other side. This requires at least partial removal of the fender. I took the old mirrors off (remove the little triangle piece on the inside and it reveals three screws). What's left without the mirrors looks like Swiss cheese, so I put black duct tape over it. I was planning on taking sheet metal, cutting it shape, and putting it there (painting it black, too). But I never got around to it.

As you know, I ran these on my Loyale. These bulbs do not last long. I drive with my headlights on all the time, but these don't last long. I have since switched to Sylvania Silver Star Ultras, whatever the $55/pair bulbs are at O'Reilly. They have AMAZING night performance and have been going strong since October 2013.

Yup, 34 and 35 are common codes. I used to have both. What I eventually did was every time I went to the junkyard, I'd grab as many EGR and purge solenoids as possible. I'd change both of them, drive a bit, check the ECU. If the code was still there, move on to the next one. I went through about 4-5 solenoids each before I finally found good ones. You can also mod in a resister for the purge solenoid, though I don't know the specifics.

It was about 30 miles east of Seattle. The beginning of the road is only like 20 minutes away from my house, and the road itself is at least 20 miles long. I went down it about 20 miles before there was too much snow, and I don't like driving in deep snow by myself. Not to mention the weather was starting to turn nasty. And where I turned around, the main road split into like 4-5 separate paths, so this is definitely a place I gotta explore. It's an easy road (I rarely put it in 4WD), but on the way back, I found out these tires do fantastic on loose gravel at 30-40 MPH. I had my GoPro filming the first part of the trip, if you're interested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIHq3OKGPUk

Let me know when you guys are finally tired of seeing my car. I don't think an old pop-up looks too bad behind an EA82. Need to get rear discs though: Then a short trip I did today. The scenery was even better in person:

"This content is currently unavailable." I wanna see the footage, although I think I know what happens.

CONFIRMED. PROBLEM IS FIXED. After sitting overnight (about 24 hours, to be exact), it started and idled fine!! Drove to work, and after a 9-hour shift, my car still idled fine! Such a good feeling, like you guys have no idea. I have to tell myself, "the car will idle by itself, Grant." I still cannot believe that it's fixed. About my old harness, I'm keeping it. I like to keep car parts as reminders (might sound stupid). I have a shelf of old parts from my car in my house. I have my torn v-belt and stripped hub, from the two times I've had to call a tow truck. I have my old clutch disc from my transmission/clutch swap (was my first big repair and was the first repair I did without getting frustrated at any point). I have a rear spring from the night I lifted my car (that was a wild night). Now I have this wiring harness, to remind myself of the problem that took me so long to fix. It will tell me, "never give up," if I'm ever feeling down.

I'll put in some of my advice on a couple of these points: 2- Those wheels will work fine if you get them. There are also small 14" tires that are available which don't have much more outside diameter than your stock wheels/tires. If I'm correct, 185/70R13 tires are 23" in outside diameter. Pick up some 14" tires that are about that size (175/70R14 is about the same; look up "tire calculator" on Google). Any larger (I think 25" or more) will rub unless you're lifted. 3- I think a lot of people have fog lights, but they're simple to install so there's no write-ups on 'em. I have fog lights under my bumper, and I have them wired up to a relay. My recommendation is to always wire up to a relay. If you do direct, the switch may get very hot after some use and start smoking (has happened to me). Also, if you put lights under the bumper, be aware they may be subject to damage from offroading. I lost a fog light light whilst offroading (twice, actually), and have since installed $15 "mini" fog lights from Harbor Freight. They hang no lower than my license plate (which I haven't damaged yet), but they'll be cheap to replace if need be. They're also easy to install; you just need to drill two holes in your bumper. I posted some pictures of my old fog lights in the following thread; maybe it'll give you some ideas on mounting: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134769-ea82-alternator-upgrade/?do=findComment&comment=1133181 4- A 2" lift is pretty easy and cheap (especially if you buy a used one or build your own). It's just bolt-in, although a front subframe drop (and steering link extension) won't kill your front axles as quickly. The front lift is a little tricky to get on, especially if your car is stuck together (like mine was). It might take a lot of hammering to get it apart. 5- I used to run fender mirrors (until I damaged them in a ditch). I bought them from eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-Starlet-KP61-KP47-Corolla-KE70-KE75-AE70-TE71-TE72-fender-mirror-/360655815229?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f8c3023d&vxp=mtr). They took about a month to arrive at my house, but I liked having them. But like I said, I damaged them offroading and I'm not going to order another set (I'll probably damage them again). And in case you're wondering, yes, '85 and '86 models outside of the United States had fender mirrors (in some countries). Here are some pictures of my wagon. These were when I had fender mirrors, before I lifted it, and when I had my old fog lights on. I've also included some interior pictures of the fender mirrors, so you can get an idea of what they're like from the driver's view.

That's my favorite part of working on cars: fixing a problem you've been dealing with for a while now. This is the longest I've tolerated an issue, and wow, it feels good to fix it. Did some more driving, and it's still idling great!! It liked to idle at like 1250 RPM, but towards the end of my trip, it idled closer to like 900 RPM or so. I figure the IACV just needs to "stretch its legs" since it's been sitting so long without much use. I'll probably spray some carb cleaner in it, just to clean it out a bit. You have no idea how good it feels to resolve the problem. It's been one year; 15,000 miles. Can't wait for the morning, when I don't have to rev it to warm it up.

I'm running a 2" lift and 27" tires on my SPFI Loyale. I still use fifth gear, quite a lot. But more for cruising. If you plan to accelerate at all or go up any hill, gotta go into fourth or third, depending on your speed. But for me, I haven't noticed much gas mileage change. Maybe a little less, but only a couple MPGs. For me, my speedometer isn't too far off. When the speedo reads 35 MPH, I'm really going 38 MPH. When the speedo reads 60 MPH, I'm really going 66 MPH. It's about a 1.0:1.1 ratio. which isn't that far off. I don't do conversions when I fill up for gas because it's only a few miles off, but I haven't noticed much more fuel consumption. If you do more city driving, stop-and-go, hills, etc., you're gonna get worse mileage. If you do more freeway driving, you're actually gonna get better gas mileage. At speed, the wheels are going a longer distance per every revolution, but during city driving, it requires more power to turn the wheels. I personally do a 50/50 mix of driving, so that's why I don't notice much different in the gas mileage. I used to get 25-30 MPG when I was stock, but now I probably get 20-25 MPG.

Today, I went to the junkyard. There were quite a few EA82s in the yard. Three carbs, one turbo, and three SPFI. I decided to take a wiring harness from a 1993 Loyale, SPFI. The harness itself was pretty clean, all connections looked good, and most importantly the IACV plug was not stressed/stretched at an awkward angle. Was a bit tricky to remove with the A/C compressor in the way, but I got it out. Picked up some other things and headed home. Once I got home, I decided to install everything. Got the wiring harness installed, and went to go start the engine. Turned the key and... MY CAR STARTED IMMEDIATELY WITHOUT MY FOOT ON THE GAS PEDAL AND IT IDLED NORMALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No check engine light and it was idling great! Still misfiring, but that's another issue. As far as I can tell, the new wiring harness has completely fixed any idle issues that I've had. I went for a short drive (but long enough that I would notice any issues), and it idled fine the entire trip. It was so freaking nice not to have to rev it to keep it from dying. I can actually come to a stop without hitting the gas. I can slam on the brakes and not have to worry about my car dying. Words cannot describe how nice it is to have a working car again. Here's a picture of my old wiring harness. This POS has plagued my car for at least a year. It has driven me insane and was the only thing I hated about my car. I want to set this f****** on fire and watch it burn to a pile of ashes, that I will then run over with a lawn mower. I want to see this thing destroyed, as it is not worthy to be in existence anymore. :mad: Anyways, where was I? Oh right, pictures. Haha, can you tell how much this part has annoyed me? I've never had such animosity towards a singe part before. So yeah. The wire harness had cost me all of $15 at the junkyard. Didn't take much time to replace, since I don't have A/C or power steering, so the harness just came right out. I owe a big thanks to everyone who helped on this thread, even if what you suggested didn't lead to the solution. Anything and everything helped me, and hopefully future readers. I am so glad to finally have gotten rid of this problem. I can hopefully enjoy my car this summer now. I'll post again tomorrow, to make sure it's not a fluke. Hopefully my car will start and idle normally in the morning, after it has been sitting overnight. But I'm pretty sure the problem has been fixed. Again, thanks to everyone that posted. :)

The inner two rails are there so your cargo doesn't scratch the paint on the roof. If you don't care about your car's paint, the full rack would be an interesting idea (though I find strapping things down might be slightly difficult). The inner rails on my roof rack support my spare tire, so the tire isn't on the actual roof of the car.

I'll tag along if something goes down. I'm just east of Seattle.

I did mention it. I'm on my phone and don't have the specific post numbers, but I mentioned it in the bulleted list in post #15. I have previously checked the TPS and it checked out fine as per the FSM tolerances.

I'm going to the junkyard on Tuesday, where I'll be picking up a new harness. I hope with every fiber of my being that this is the solution. If I replace the harness with a good one and it doesn't fix the problem, I'm throwing my hands up in the air and giving up, again. For like the fifth time. I'm eventually doing an EJ swap, so f*** this motor and it's idle problem, haha. But, I think a new harness with fix it. I can't wait to be idling normally again. And I really hope this thread will help future readers that have a similar problem. Save themselves hours of testing and hundreds of dollars on random parts. Check your IACV plug to make sure the wires haven't been pulled out. It's a free check, and can save yourself a lot of time if that's the problem. I, personally, have been dealing with this issue for upwards of a year now. Maybe more.

I think I've played too much GTA as a kid, but when I saw this picture, I immediately thought of the "Walton" on Grand Theft Auto: San Andreas: Anybody else see the resemblance? Or is it just me? Obviously it's a different truck, and the bed is different, and, um.... I don't know. I'll go now.

My hunting idle does it regardless of the heat setting. All my idle issues happen regardless of having the defog on, heat on, or nothing on. Plus, pulling the fuse on the passenger firewall disables that circuit. It's a good thought, but I don't think that's my problem. That might help someone a year or two from now who reads this thread though.