palfer

My 09' Legacy has 97K miles. I change the fluids at the appropriate intervals but recently the transmission has been downshifting inappropriately. Doesn't happen on every trip but occurs when I'm on a flat freeway driving 75-80mph. I'll be cruising along at about 3K rpm's and out of nowhere it will momentarily downshift. The rpm's jump to 4.5K and out of reaction I let off the gas pedal and it will immediately upshift back to 4th gear. The whole episode lasts about 3 seconds but its alarming as its completely unexpected based on how I'm driving. It doesn't trigger a check engine light but I pulled the codes anyway and I'm getting a C0045 and C0071

Update on this. Light has not come back on but was driving at about 70mph and the transmission downshifted for no apparent reason. Went a few more miles then it upshifted to overdrive once again. I was able to pull a few codes using the headlight and trip odometer process. C0045 and C0071.

Came on again yesterday after a 40 mile drive. It shifted just fine the whole ride. What causes that light to illuminate or could be a number of things?

Yes, I've changed fluid a few times. No damage to the pan.

yes, checked at idle and in neutral. I bought the car new.

My 2009 (96K miles) automatic 4 EAT doesn't seem to what to make the shift from 3rd to 4th gear. Engine gets up to 4K rpm's and then it triggers the flashing AT Oil light, traction control, etc. I've checked the transmission fluid and the level is good. When I shut the car off and restart the flashing dash lights go away. Does this symptom ring a bell or any suggestions where to start troubleshooting? Thanks!

did you get the evap code issues solved?

Hi My 97' Impreza just came up with a P1441(fuel tank pressure control-high input). I'm assuming that means the pressure is too high and the system can't relieve it. I connected the green connectors under the dash and was able to verify the purge control solenoid (under the intake manifold) and the vent control solenoid (above the charcoal canister) are both turning on/off. However the pressure control sensor (mounted to body on passenger side of hatchback behind the apron) is NOT giving any audible click or pulses. What I'm not sure of is if the pressure sensor is supposed to pulse when the green connector are joined. Any ideas? If not, does anyone know how to test if this is working? I also looked over my fuel filler neck and its got some rust. I don't see any pinholes but I'm thinking if there were that would trigger a P0440 for an evap lead which I am not getting at this time. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply. On the 97, there are no airbag connectors under the front seats. Perhaps that changed in '98 but I have two 97's and neither has that integration into the seat belt.

Hi Everyone My 97' Impreza has the airbag light on. The cruise and the horn are still operational. I flashed the code old school by grounding the black connector under the dash and got back a 12. Airbag control module circuit open. Is this as straight forward as I need to replace the module under the center console? My only airbag experience has been changing the clock spring a few times with ones from a salvage yard. Thanks!

Well as it turns There was a crack in the universal joint end cap. installed a used driveshaft from a junked car and noise is gone. Thanks to everyone for providing input along the way.

Should I be able to rock the differential as done in this video? https://youtu.be/oy3L2DcKsK4

Should I be able to rock the differential as done in this video? https://youtu.be/oy3L2DcKsK4

Remove both lower control arm bushings. They are ok, no play or movement Snapped a few pics of the stub shaft. The only part that looks like a possibility is the roll pin opening. The one side is pretty beat up. When the pin is installed the play in/out seems normal. There is also play side to side. Don’t know if that’s normal or if there should be no play at all side to side.

Well, I'm open to suggestions if you have any. I've basically replaced every on the passenger side associated with the driveline and I can't get rid of knock upon acceleration from a stop. If the vibration from the aftermarket axle was enough to cause the axle seal to fail perhaps it fouled up the shaft or worse the differential. Kind of at the end of my rope on this repair..

A bad aftermarket axle caused the bearing to fail. I fixed the that with a used knuckle but it also caused a leak in the shaft seal and there’s still a slight knock upon acceleration. After installation of an axle from the dealer. my plan is to change the seal and the shaft to stop the leak and hopefully the knock.

Have you ever had to replace the stubby shaft that extends out of the front diff? I'm think that autozone axle might've goofed that too. I see a small leak at the front diff, the knocking/vibrating must've caused the seal to fail.

Well i bought a remanufactured axle from the Subaru dealer and it made a world of difference. I still hear a slight knocking when accelerating from a full stop but nothing like it was. Bugs me that I can't seem to fully solve it but its drive able now. I guess I'll just have to see if the knocking worsens over time.

I was able to get back to this today. When I took the rotor off I noticed the tone ring was loose, 3 of the bolts were no longer tight. Also the tip of the ABS was broken off. I didn't notice that when I removed it earlier. I personally changed the bearings and installed new hubs and I know I fully tightened the tone rings. The vibrating I kept noticing definitely damaged the bearing assembly. I purchased a used hub/knuckle from a salvage yard. Installed it along with the ABS sensor. Good news is the ABS light is gone, the groaning/vibration when I brake is gone also. However the knocking upon acceleration is still there. Also noticeable when I make turns. I swear it sounds like a bad axle, but I've changed the axle twice now so I have to consider other possibilities. I did replace the control arm bushings about 4 years ago so I guess it could be that. Also have recently changed the ball joints, tie rod ends and they both look OK too. Can you guys think of anything else?

Yes, I'm not sure that the issue is in the ABS actually. I think the vibrating/knocking may have goofed the wheel bearing but on checking the bearing (rocking the tire, top to bottom) there was no excessive play at all. There was no braking issue whatsoever until I replaced the axle. now my knocking under the floorboards is gone but i have this mystery problem when pressing the brake

Most helpful. Both SBF1&2 tested ok with a meter. For kicks I swapped one into two and bingo the car starts. Now I need to find where to get a new SBF and return to the drive-ability issue

Yes, all the lights on the dash illuminate with key on. I've checked every fuse in engine compartment and under dash. All are good.

Thanks NVU. Things are going from bad to worse on this repair. In my quest to trigger the ABS light to flash a code I grounded the clear/yellow connector pictured in the link below and turned the key on. It started to smoke, so I quickly removed the grounding pin. However now the car will no longer start. dash illuminates and it cranks but won't start. I checked the slow blow fuses in the engine compartment and they all are OK. When I turn the key to "on", I do not hear the fuel pump energize. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-NhwHr61gST7MnfIbt1Rd8SW6B3huFq8/view Any help is appreciated!

thanks. Is there a way to test the sensor at the connector?

thanks. I did unbolt and examined the sensor. It had some metal shavings on the end but appeared ok. I cleaned it off and looked at the wire as well. Looked ok. I didn't look at the tone ring. Thinking it must be the sensor as I had no issues at all until I started moving the strut around to change the axle.