palfer

Hi The ABS was working fine until I changed the passenger front axle. Now the when I push the pedal it groans badly and pulses causing the light to go on. Did some research and found the diagnostic connector (black) and grounding pins under the dash. Procedure I found says to ground pin 6 but that pin isn't populated. There are only 3 pins populated I grounded all 3 (individually) then key on. None cause the ABS to flash. One of them causes the air bag light to flash. Any ideas? Thanks

Good to know. my taps are all tapered at the end and that is exactly what is happening.. Wasn't aware there were variations. The bottom tap has no taper so it cuts right away?

That was my impression which is sort of the struggle because I can't tap the hole. Seems the metal is so soft the hole just widens on me. If I could tap it, I'd just drill out the hole in the pan and use a larger bolt. Maybe I can get the coil to bite just enough to thread a bolt. As mentioned, there is very little torque on these bolts, just need it flush to prevent a fluid leak

Got it. I just hope I can find a coil big enough for the hole.

I've not used helicoil before. How does the insert anchor itself into the hole if there aren't threads?

Hi all. While removing the oil pan on my transmission to reseal I ended up snapping a bolt. I drilled it out but for some reason I cannot tap the hole. I'm using a new tap so its sharp but it won't cut any threads. Any ideas on what I can do? Thanks

Realize now where I messed up. Neglected to properly center the rack. I just visually compared with the old rack and then installed. I've since had it aligned and one side there are very few visible threads on the tie rod while there are many visible on the other.

Decided it was time to change the rack and outer tie rods which were in really bad shape. Removal was straightforward. I centered the wheel and disconnected the linkage to the gearbox. Compared the old rack to the rebuilt one and it was slightly different in terms of the fluid lines but very close. The length from end to end matched and it mounted just fine. Now it's installed and I have an unequal turn radius. When I turn left the wheel spins approximate 1&5/8 times from center (wheels straight). When I turn left the wheel spins just over 2 full revolutions. The car drives straight as can be but clearly something is off. Any ideas on what I screwed up and need to adjust? thanks!

So is best practice to remove the TPS when cleaning/spraying the TB to avoid exposure? Recommend I remove mine to see if there is any debris causing the problem?

OK. I'll check that out. Thanks. I did not mess with that sensor at all so I'm hoping its what you've stated.

Is the TPS the electrical connector on the side? If so, all I did was unplug it and plug it back in upon reinstallation.

Car was running fine but since I had some things apart I unbolted the throttle and gave it a good cleaning on the bench. Figured that was better than spraying cleaner onto it and have it make its way into the intake. because no good deed goes unpunished, I now have a P0122 code. its starts fine but for no reason will idle up sporadically then return back down to normal idle. Doesn't stall or even come close. Any ideas what I could've disturbed? thanks!

Thanks. When I shut off the pump I can actually hear a hissing coming from the valve area. it has to be the o-rings, correct?

Finally broke down and took it to the dealer to diagnose the lead I could not find. Luckily I know the service writers so I knew I'd get a straight answer. After about 15 minutes he came back and said they didn't find anything obvious which made me feel slightly better. Naturally the one part they couldn't ascertain was the evaporator. He basically said if it wasn't me they'd have called it an evaporator leak and quoted the customer accordingly. So I ordered a replacement evaporator and expansion value and installed them, wasn't too bad of a job. The evap was old an crusty but no gaping hole or otherwise that confirm the cause. So now I put it back together with new O-rings and a new receiver/drier too and hook up the vacuum and won't go past 18 Hg. Memory serves I should get to about 22 Hg. Anyway I shut the pump off and it loses vacuum immediately. I double check everything is tight try it again and its the same. So I disconnect the lines and remove the expansion valve to be sure I didn't miss something. All looks good. I try again and got real close to the valve and you can actually hear the sucking sound when the pump is on. Spray some soapy water on it and it slowly pulls the water in b/t the valve and where the lines bolt in. I'm really at a loss as to why I can't create a tight seal. I matched up the o-rings with ones from my kit and they are pretty good matches, everything bolts up nice and tight, yet I'm sucking air when vacuuming. Any ideas? Thanks!

its actually the thrust bearing..

Was in the process of changing out my duty C solenoid on my 97 Impreza and when I pulled off the transfer case the clutch pack came out with it and a bearing dropped out. Does that bearing have any orientation when going back on the transmission shaft? Thanks

Getting the AT OIL TEMP light on my 97 Impreza OB. Question on the "secret handshake". Does pin 5 of B82 need to be grounded the entire time I go through the various handshaking steps or do I ground it at the end of that sequence? thanks

Yes, I have been. I've used the dye, can't see any discernible leak however. I've vacuumed it down and it does hold but over time I keep losing refrigerant. Frustrating. I hate the idea of swapping the evaporator per the dealer's logic but not sure what else to do

Thanks. I've changed all the O rings

Gave in and took the Subie to the dealer for an A/C leak diagnosis. They pulled out what was left and recharged but could not find a leak. they let it run for about 20 minutes and couldn't spot anything. Service writer was honest and said they can usually see the oil leaking out from somewhere. When they can't they usually diagnose it as the evaporator since that is the one part they can't see. Starting to have intermittent issues with it now. On really warm days (110+), it will work for a bit then stop. Other days it will work just fine. Finally got a chance to put gauges on it today, when the compressor comes on it gets to about 180 psi on the high side and 25 psi on the low. Compressor turns off and pressures change to 150/50 and I noticed the clutch turn very slowly for about a 1/2 turn they she'll click on again. Cycling like this about every 30 seconds. Not sure if the clutch shuddering is due to the system being undercharged or an unrelated problem? Am thinking of trying another shop and see if they are better at finding the leak...

see attached photo

It's the nut on the rear toe-in bolt. I don't see anything special about it. I have a flanged nut that I just took off the top mount of the old strut that is in very good shape as it was inside the car. Thinking I can just use that and torque it down.

After changing the struts on my 97 Impreza I took it a shop for alignment. The left rear adjustment nut was goofed up. Looks like someone remove it with a vice grip. The shop wanted to charge me $150 to remove/replace the nut "we don't know how long it's going to take". After spending all Sunday on the strut removal I wasn't about to spend $150 for the removal of one nut. I brought it home, jacked it up and removed the nut. The bolt is fine. So... Is there anything specific about that nut that I should get it from the dealer? I have a flanged nut in my garage that threads on fine but just wasn't sure if there is a "hardness" issue or something that I should not use whatever I have hanging around

They were but probably had about 30% length still left. Lightly sanded the comm to get the surface build up off.

Thanks.. I changed the brushes just because it's 20 years old and didn't want my son getting stuck while at school. 4 miles away from the house it broke down. I took it apart again and re-soldered new brushes and have it running in the garage. All seems fine... If I was smart I would've checked the voltage output before I started messing with it.