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Wondering if my alternator isn't up to snuff in my 97 Impreza. I've read, with the car running an no accessories on I should get about 14.4 volts when testing at the battery. I get 13.63 volts, about 13.8 when I test at the B+ terminal. Is that differential significant enough to replace the alternator?

thank you

Changing the struts on my 97 Impreza AWD. While prying open the hole to fit the brake hose back through the little bracket broke clean off the strut. Strut went back in fine but what are my options to fasten the brake hose to something solid? Can I just zip tie it to the strut body?

It was from a spare clock spring. I get the green tab to latch and it's spring load feel right. I must not have the internal coil spring aligned quite right so when it's connected it will break that ground you mentioned

I can solder. I was able to pop that green tab out of another connector. the little coiled spring that actually makes electrical contact is a bit of a pain to align. Think I got it though.. The tab is nice a "springy" as it should be. Reattached everything but she's still throwing a light. Should the light go out right away if I got it or is there a delay?

So I replaced the multi-functioned switch and it appears (so far) the headlight issue I solved. While removing the switch connections from under the dash, I snapped the green locking tab on the airbag connector. The connector still "connects" but the green tab won't stay depressed. When I start the car now I'm getting air-bag light on the dash. Any thoughts how to remedy this issue?

thanks. Yes, it seems like the switch is fully integrated with the turn signal. Steering wheel has to come off, etc.

Picked up a used switch, however it's par of the entire assembly (clock spring, wiper stalk). do I have to replace this whole thing or can I just detach the headlight switch and swap that?

I replaced both headlight relays with new ones. Tried what Faritax suggested but couldn't get the lights to go out, they worked just fine. I unbolted the fuse box and moved that all around while watching for any change in the headlights---none. I guess I'll need to wait until this problem becomes more than intermittent.

Haven't tried that. The problem is the issue is so random and infrequent, returning to normal so quickly it's challenging to try different things.

Jiggling doesn't turn them off when on. Unfortunately, when they do "turn off" they come back on in a few seconds so I don't get the chance to play around with things to see if it makes a difference.

My 97 Impreza headlights periodically go out then return 2-3 seconds later. I've not noticed any rhyme or reason. I could be driving or just sitting at a traffic light and they will go out simultaneously, then come right back. I've replaced, both side bulbs and relays but it hasn't cured it. Also changed the fuses. I don't see anything evidence of bad/frayed wiring at the sockets. Anybody come across this before? Suggestions? Thanks!

Installed (yet another) remanufactured axle on the passenger side, that cured it. Naturally, I guessed wrong the first time by replacing the driver side. Not even 1 year old and the axle needed replacing. Wish I had a dollar for every axle I've changed. Somehow I don't think it will be my last time. thanks for the suggestions!

repetitive.. knock, knock, knock during the turn. It goes away once the wheel is straightened.

These 97' Imprezas really keep me busy. Have done a lot of repair on this one with my youngest son as became of driving age. Really tried to diagnose this one but can't seem to pin it down. I'm getting a knock when making right turns, only while accelerating. When coasting into a right turn, nothing. Making left turns and/or accelerating in a straight line, there is no noise whatsoever. Replaced both front axles and ball joints last summer so I figured I might have gotten a bad axle. Took It back to Autozone under warranty and installed the "new" one on the driver side (seemed to be where the noise is coming from). No change, still get the knock on right turn acceleration. Noticed the control arm bushing on the driver side had leaked fluid out. Just replaced both control arm bushings. They needed to be changed, but my noise is still there. Can't seem to replicate the issue in the garage. Turned the wheel to the right and had someone spin the tires but couldn't detect anything. The rack and tie rods are original (168K miles), rack boot is intact. Could use new tie rod ends but don't get the sense that's my issue. Struts are original, probably could use those too.. Any thoughts on what I could check next? Thanks!

thanks for the responses. Yes, I've tried to use the dye. Problem is the leak is so substantial, I can't get enough pressure in the system to have the compressor kick on and distribute the dye. Think I have two choices, start replacing components one by one and she if it will hold vacuum each time or give in and take it to a shop. Condenser is too bad but are there any aftermarket sources for the hoses/lines? Costs from the dealer are outrageous.

Thanks Fairtax. No luck noticing anything upon adding more refrigerant this morning. I pulled the condenser hoping I'd find something obvious based on the leak I have but couldn't locate anything. It's certainly banged up but spent about 30 minutes combing it carefully and while plugging one end I blew compressed air into the other side, still no signs of a leak. Scratching my head at this point. Don't want to guess and replace a part hoping, kind of stuck right now.

So I finally got back to this A/C leak. When I hooked up the gauges there was no pressure in the system. I hooked up my pump and pulled a vacuum to see if it would hold. When I turned off the pump and closed the gauge valves I lost the vacuum in about 15 seconds and it returned to zero. My next step was to try to put a small amount of refrigerant into the system along with some dye just to get the compressor working and pushing Freon throughout the system. Well I ended up putting a full 12 ounce can into the low pressure side however the compressor never clicked on. I shut of the engine and almost immediately the system was at zero on the gauges. Am I on the right track in thinking that since the compressor never came on that the leak must be in hose between the low pressure Schrader valve and the compressor itself? I put the sniffer on that part of the hose and it did indicated a leak, however it wasn't obvious under bright light. I know those sniffers can give false positives sometimes so I wanted to get the group's thoughts before I invested in a low pressure hose. thanks!

Yes, I'm going to get that entire assembly (bracket and bushing). I was asking about the other, smaller bushing in the control arm. The one towards the front of the car.

I couldn't get to that nut with anything substantial enough to break it loose, so I pulled the control arm Take a look at the bushing in the pics below.. pretty hammered. Still don't understand how the bracket moved. Anyway, I don't have a press to push out the smaller bushing. Is that one critical to replace?

Think I'll buy the bushing/bracket and see if that solves it. I'm assuming I should also change the corresponding bushing on the driver side as well? Does the control arm have to come out of the car to change this?

Thanks. They've (pads/calipers/hoses/rotors) been replaced, probably 18 months ago. About 1/2 the material is still left on the pads. Checked the caliper bolts on both sides and they were all tight.

Yep, they are. Just put a 1/2 inch breaker bar on them. Couldn't tighten them at all. Same for the other bushing a sway bar...all snug. Maybe he hit something.. funny it drives fine. alignment is good, nothing noticeable upon acceleration. Got it up to 65 mph and couldn't tell anything. Just when I pulse on brakes, feels like something hitting the underside of the car.

thanks. I thought the same thing so I put a socket on the bolts. They are not loose, in fact they are quite tight. You are right about the frame rail, only nobody's been in there sanding. My guess is the tire is rubbing on that spot upon full right turns. My son is home from college with the car and other than a clunk when going over a bump, he hasn't noticed anything. I drove it for a few miles and knew something was up.

Think I might have figured this out but wanted to run by the group. Got under the car again this morning and took these pics of the passenger side. In looking at the control arm bushing, it appears from the shiny parts near the bolt heads that the assembly has shifted. Also noticed a rub mark on the inner fender well presumably from the tire on a right hand turn. Driver side has neither of these type clues/indications. Control arm bushing failure?