palfer

My 2.2 automatic (180K miles) is making a noticeable thump when medium/hard braking occurs. If I apply the brakes slowly or ease into a stop light, nothing happens. Also notice it when it roll slowly over a speed bump. Feels like its under the front floorboard, also feel a jolt to the steering wheel. It accelerates fines, nothing noticeable. Also seems fine when shifting from park to drive/reverse. Have replaced (within the last 20K miles) both axles, calipers, pad, rotors, ball joints got the wheels off the ground and tried to wiggle the tires and check for play---nothing. Tried to muscle the engine around and see if it would move--nothing. Push down on the front to see if the struts would respond. Nothing obvious.. Not really sure how to diagnose motor/transmission mounts. Appreciate any ideas from the group. Thanks!

So this is the 3rd time in the last 12 months my A/C has quit. After reading on this forum I replaced the O-rings at the compressor and a few other areas for good measure as well as the dryer. Repeated the O-ring change at the compressor about 4 months ago and am now back again. Each time the hooked up a pump and pulled vaccuum which held and then I filled with freon. I bought a sniffer and will see if that can find a leak that I can't see with U/V light. I was thinking that maybe my replacement green HBNR generic O-rings might be the culprit. Should I try to order these from the dealer instead of matching sizes? Thoughts? Thanks!

replaced 3 fuses associated with the headlight operation. Still getting random turn offs. They come back after a second or two which is the odd part.

Lights will go out for a few seconds then both will come right back on. Kind of alarming driving at night. Can't find a common theme when it randomly occurs. Could be just driving down the road, no bumps or braking and poof, they are out. Five seconds later they are back. Then may not see it happen again for a week. Any thoughts where to start?

Finally got around to installing the new sending unit. Pretty easy, had to solder a few leads at the bottom of the assembly. As soon as I installed it gauge jumped up to 3/4 which is about right comparing to my trip odometer and CEL went out immediately. Part was a little more money than a used assembly but seemed like the better route.

To close the loop, this ended up being the clock spring. Was able to find a used one for $40. Installed it and no more "air bag" light. thanks again for the help

OK. Wiring looks good. Old and crusty for sure but no cracks etc. I located a good step by step testing sheet that walks through the process. I can post if it would be helpful, although I'm not sure how to post a PDF here. Anyway, driver side unit tested fine, passenger was the problem. no continuity. Has anyone been so bold as to just replace the sending unit as opposed to the entire fuel pump assembly? it can be purchased separately at the dealer. thanks

My 97' Impreza has flashed a CEL. I pulled the code and came up with P0463. I know this is usually indicative of a bad fuel sending unit but understand that there are two units on my model. Any idea which one may be the culprit, passenger or driver side? thanks-

Didn't get a chance to pull the codes but the horn and the cruise were inoperable today. Weird they worked yesterday.. Anyway looks like the clock spring, huh? Found a used one from a 97 Legacy. Do you think it would be the same part for the Impreza?

thanks. Yes, both the horn and cruise are working at the moment. I'll take a look tomorrow and see if I can pull the code(s) as you described.

Gary did you determine what the issue was with your airbag? The light in One of my 97's just came on. From what I read could be as simple as a loose connection. Were you able to access the codes via the obd II interface?

Hi All- Wipers work fine on all three settings (int, low and high) but when I pull the lever to me to activate the "mist" function---nothing. Not a big deal, especially considering how often it rains in the desert. I think I use it more to wipe dust than water.. Anyway, was wondering if there was a quick fix. thanks-

Well it seems the obvious thing I was missing was the potential that I had 4 bad rear speakers. Two originals plus two more I bought through eBay from a junked vehicle. Just for giggles I took down the front door panel and plugged the front speak into both rears and Elvis was in the building. Ugh!! Anyone suggest a decent pair of aftermarket rear speakers?

I have that funny feeling that I'm missing something obvious. I took the advice and ran some new wires back from the deck to the left rear speaker. When I test (with a meter) I get about 5.6V to each lead with other lead to ground. However I get no sound when connect to the speaker. I have 3 rear speakers and tried all 3 just in case--but no luck. I haven't re-wired the right rear speaker yet (not sure that matters). Any ideas where I'm screwing up?

My headlights will go out then come back on after about 2 seconds. Nothing seems to trigger the event, sort of random. Might be unrelated but in my effort to remove the washer bottle I snapped the bolt that fastens the fuse box to the strut tower. Wasn't sure if that bolt is just a mount or serves as some sort of ground. Any ideas where to start looking? thanks

Yes, original harness is there. It looks clean. I'll check for continuity and go from there.

No sound from the rears with original stock radio. Replaced with a pioneer still nothing. Pulled the rear panels and get no power to the speakers on either side. Swapped out the speakers with a set of known good ones just to be sure--still no sound. Looked for broken wires in the door jams but all looks good on both sides. Seems the power loss is somewhere else.. Any ideas? thanks

used the wrong word. Replaced the little o-ring on the pump. Did tighten the backing plate screws. See pics. Can see the evidence of the lead on the timing cover gasket just under the bolt. Again, its not much. Just annoying since I've done the job twice now.

Looking for ideas as to what could be the cause of my oil pump leak. Changed the crank seal and crush washer and re-sealed with anaerobic sealant. still had a small leak present on the bottom of the timing cover. Took it apart a second time. No evidence of leak on the crank seal and crush washer was appropriately in place so figured I didn't seal to the block well enough. Went to ultra grey this time and reassembled. Still very tiny leak present--frustrating. Was thinking I of trying a new pump, maybe there is something wrong that I can't see. Has 160K miles. Any suggestions? thanks

Wanted to close the loop here... Replaced the solenoid, valve body gaskets (2), pipe and transfer case gasket. No more trouble light and car is running well.

thanks. Any hints on taking the joint apart? I've never done it. Always replaced the entire half shaft.

Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy axles? It seems like I'm replacing them every 6-12 months even under proper alignment and balanced wheels.

Hi Gang--looking for some tips on trans issue. Few weeks ago my AT OIL TEMP light began flashing upon startup. Car seems to run fine. Don't notice any binding upon turns etc. Trans has 180K miles. Took the car to a friend with a Subaru scanner and it came back with code "24" which apparently is the transfer case solenoid. Getting the part from the dealer along with gasket. Couple of questions: 1. Is it ok to use the car at all in the meantime while awaiting parts? 2. Should I put the FWD fuse in at this point? 3. Anyone have a write up on the removal and replacement? 4. Should I look to replace anything else in the transfer case while I'm in there? Thanks Happy Thanksgiving!

got the new plug and crush washer. oriented the washed as mentioned. much better but still a slight leak. Weird, never struggled with this on any other Subaru. Any thoughts? Is thread sealant or Teflon an option to try and stop it completely?

Replacement is aftermarket. New gasket is much thicker, thought that would be better. Suggest getting a new plug/gasket from the dealer?