palfer

have a small leak at the drain plug on my 97 2.2 Impreza. Tried a new plug and washer but still leak a tiny amount. Seems as though the washer is only flush to pan about 3/4 around. Pan doesn't seem out of round but can't get the new washer totally flush. Plug threads in easy enough no undue force needed. Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks

Got the used one today. Changed the O-ring as mentioned and installed. Works great. Not sure what went wrong with my rebuild but appreciate the help and suggestions.

Does anyone know where I can get the bearing shaft seal (0.3 in the diagram above)? I bought the kit but misplaced this one seal.

Thanks. I've been under it quite a bit in the past few months. Rack looks good. No leaks and the boot is still intact. hunting for a used one now. As I said, it was working fine until I tore the front of the engine off to change seals, idlers, belt etc. I must have disturbed something in resealing the back of the pump. It grumbles now but no leaks or bubbles in the fluid.

Continuing to rehab my new 97' Impreza. Steering was fine when I got the car but noticed evidence of a leak on the back side of the pump. So got a rebuild kit and changed the back metal gasket along with a few O-rings (one small one large) in that pump cavity. Reinstalled everything and filled with fresh fluid, not noticing the steering is very stiff. Way to much effort needed to turn, etc. I just removed and disassembled the pump again to be sure I reinstalled things correctly and all looks good. Dowels are lined up perfectly and no leaks. Still way too stiff upon test drive. I did jack up the car and bled the systems by turning side to side repeatedly. Bugs me cause it was working fine until I "upgraded" it. Any ideas what to check? I should mention I replaced both ball joints and used dexron ATF when refilling. Both front tires are filled to 32 PSI. Thanks!

Good news. got it off. Do you guys recommend re-sealing the oil pump on the 2.2L? I've done it on 2.5L, not sure the 2.2 is prone to the same issue.

Thanks. I figured as much. I was able to pull the key out with a pair of vise grips so it now spins freely on the shaft but still snagging up. Lightly filed the edge of the shaft assuming it gummed up or slightly out of round. Still no luck. Will keep at it.

Continuing to rehab my new 97 Impreza Outback (159K miles) and was trying to get behind the crank sprocket to replace the front seal and re-seal the oil pump. I get the sprocket to move forward but it keeps snagging right at the end of the shaft. I move it far enough forward to see the seal behind it is brown which I believe indicates its been replaced as the cam seals I removed are black. Unfortunately in trying to pry off the sprocket I snapped two of the four tabs and still unable to remove it. My question is by snapping the tabs am I committed to removing/replacing the sprocket or can I leave it on cross my fingers and hope the seal never leaks. If I have to get it off, any ideas how? I'm not seeing anything obvious that would cause it to hang up. Thanks

this is great----Thanks

My cheesy CD service manual does not list torque specs for various repairs. Does anyone have handy the torque specs for: tensioner idlers water pump oil pump crank pully cam sprockets cam cap bolts thanks-

Thanks guys. Stubby shaft popped right back in. Getting the axles back in this week. Have a couple other questions for you: 1. Doing the timing belt so want to change the cam seals/O-rings. Heard the sprockets are hard to remove. Do you break them loose before removing the old belt or just squeeze and impact gun in there? 2. When re-sealing the oil pump, what sealant do you use for the screws and pump mating surface?

Working on a 97 Impreza and in the middle of changing the axle. The last time someone did an axle job they deformed (somehow) the retaining pin. It took some time but was able to get most of it out. When I gave it a good yank it came free but I ended up pulling a six inch gear shaft out of the differential along with the axle (driver side). I got the rest of the pin out but a little concerned about the differential shaft. Anything magical about reinstalling that I should be aware of? thanks-

Hi All- the rear bearings in my 97 impreza outback need to be replaced. I disassembled the knuckles yesterday which was worse than an awful experience. The casualties being the long lateral link bolt, the bushing near its nut, the ABS sensor bolt and I can't separate the steel brake line where it threads into the cylinder. Other than that everything came out easy ---NOT. Questions: 1. Can I hammer a new bushing into the lateral link with it still on the car? 2. I drilled out what is left of the ABS bolt to be able to remove the sensor. Assuming I need to drill out the rest of the bolt and fasten with a new nut/bolt upon reinstalling, correct? 3. Thoughts on the brake line? Its nearly stripped (even with a flare wrench). Vise Grips? Thanks!

does anyone have the torque specs handy for the idlers and tensioner?

Anyone know where I can get a solenoid rebuild kit? I see plenty of options for a Denso starter, apparently I have a Mitsubishi.

Thanks for the comments. Pin is in. It wasn't 180 off oddly enough I just struggled to line it up just right. Weird, I've probably done half dozen of these since I've owned the car, never had one fight me like this.

Installing an aftermarket halfshaft on my 97' outback. It didn't come with a new pin to lock the axle into the transmission shaft. Could not get the old one back in there after an hour of trying. Had to get the car back on the road so finished the install without the pin. Is it imperative that I go back and install that pin or is it just fine to go without it? thanks-

Happened again. Moved the shifter up and down a few times and she started right up. What part is the culprit? thanks!

Thanks for the tips. I'll begin by cleaning off all the contacts/terminals. Where is the neutral safety switch that you're referring to located?

Auto-Transmission. Just went out in the garage and wiggled the negative terminal on the battery and it was tight. For giggles tried to start it again and bingo--she started right up. Guess my battery and alternator are good. Can't figure out what I did since the Neg connection on the battery is good, no acid build up at all. Positive terminal is good and tight as well, little build-up on that connection. Think I should replace both of the cables just to be safe?

180K miles, original alternator, battery is little over 2 years old (6 year battery). Accessories come on and dash light but nothing when you turn the key, even while attempting to jump start. Had this happen about 6 weeks ago (DOA when I went to start) and it started fine with the help of a jump. Just figured I left something on or a door open. Didn't think much of it. Car ran fine up until today. Not sure where to begin, any help is appreciated. thanks-

It was the O-rings at the compressor. Changed them at the condenser and changed the drier as well. Charged and she blows very cold now. thanks for the advice. One more question: The clutch is a little sluggish when trying to engage, spins slowly then eventually catches and does its thing. Anyone know how to adjust the clutch on the compressor? From what I understand, its done manually as opposed to newer vehicles which are hydraulic. thanks

Thanks for the input. I already bought the receiver and have a vacuum pump so might as well go the distance. My question is once pull a vacuum 28 Hg and shut down the pump. Should the vacuum level stay pegged at that level or is it normal for it to creep down a bit to 22ish or so over the course of an hour or so. Or is that creep indicative of a subtle remaining leak somewhere?

OK. Found the leak (o-ring at compressor), replaced both rings there. Now for next steps I have some questions: 1. Do I change the receiver now or vacuum down with old receiver for leak check? 2. How long should I vacuum down and to what level? 3. Once I achieve appropriate vacuum. Is some drop the vacuum level OK so long as it maintains "vacuum" or should it stay pegged?

Well after 15 years I finally have a problem with my A/C. I've done a multitude of different repairs on this car over the years but one thing i have little experience with is A/C. From what I've read it's likely a leak and the culprit more often than not are the O-rings on the compressor. I could start there but was hoping someone could give me a stepwise diagnosis procedure for getting to the bottom of this. I do own a set of gauges, bought them new about 6 years ago and have never taken them out of the box. thanks for any help!