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Everything posted by BratRod
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to swap or not to swap, that is the question..
BratRod replied to Meeky Moose's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Yes, you should swap, because I want your transmission. -
Spent all day working on the Brat. First shift was 12am to 5pm. Then went to dinner. Took a break and watched some breaking bad, then a friend came over and we just got done doing some more work on it. Cleaned the engine bay. Cleaned up fairly well. Here are the very nice seats I spoke of. Did some cutting on the (what used to be) battery tray. After I cleaned it, I saw that it was not as bad as it looked. Oklahoma red dirt can look like rust sometimes. Got too late to run the grinder so much of it was done with tin-snips, and a wire brush. Then there is this... This was the end of the night shift. Making good progress, I think. Need to pick up some 18 Gauge steel and pick up a MIG so I can get to repairing the cut out panels.
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Here is a chance to make a little money. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140102-needed-1980-1982-impossible-to-find-dl-dash-switch/?do=findComment&comment=1179000
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This is Brat #2. I scrambled to get it, and as fate would have it: the day before my birthday. Pictures... And even came with one of these. Now that you have seen her beauty shots: So, hard-top 1984 GL auto. The transmission is dead, (duh) so that's close to the top of my list. The seats are gone, but I'm not upset about that, because I have some in my other Brat. Other than the rust pictured... it's in good condition relative to what most of you northerners are used to. Those are the only bad spots I've found so far. I'm going to be honest: I have done rust repair before, but that battery tray... Any advice on that would help. I have access to a mig and all the equipment. I just need you guys to dot the "i". I absolutely LOVE the seats. I don't know whether they were a recover job, or what, but they sure look and feel good. More pictures tomorrow. It's late and I'm tired. 7 hour round trip. I'll try to keep up with pics on this one, as it is at my house versus my fathers. I just moved, so I have a nice un-molested garage ready to be tormented
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Glad to see #5 is alive, hah!
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Cool. I will start putting away for that (shipping ) send me a pm when you get to doing that, so we can work something out.
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Ok, now I understand. Thank you for clarifying.
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I do not believe you understand. The big shaft in the center (turbine shaft- FSM) is stripped, rendering it useless except for when in park. Your other post today is what gave me hope about finding another M41a from a Nissan. Sorry, im a little confused here.
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Then what am I rebuilding?
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Are the 3AT and 4spd D/R drive lines the same length?
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If everything goes as planned; I will be picking up another Brat Saturday. The 3AT has (as expected) died: Sheared the main shaft. Would it be cheaper to find another JATCO and rebuild it, or source a D/R 4? Mind you, I would have to pay for shipping on everything for the manual swap, but could probably find another automatic locally if they are as common as depicted. How difficult would it be to rebuild the 3AT given I have good inners? All thoughts and opinions are welcome. Thanks. Edit: Update post/question. 8/15
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Buying 83 Brat with automatic
BratRod replied to BBerry4430's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Huh, funny... I've been researching this like crazy, lately. My consensus is: The 3AT that came with the Brat is garbage. It was problematic and few are left due to the common (almost inevitable) failure. While that is the majority of what people think, there are some people that stand by them with over 200k miles. The general rule seems to be fluid changes RELIGIOUSLY at a 20k mile interval. That being said; for offroad purposes, the D/R is king! IMO, you will not be happy with the automatic if you loved your other Brats. The mileage is worse, too. -
I've redone a door panel on my Brat (haven't gotten pictures up, cause I'm lazy) I used Duplicolor vinyl fabric paint (or something) turned out extremely well. I think there is black even. I used grey, similar to factory. I was even able to clear over it. No flaking here, yet.
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It's all good! If it weren't for reposts... there would not be much activity on the board.
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I've looked to this thread for great information related to which you speak. I, too, wish to make the pilgrimage to WCSS one of these years.
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Supra transmission?... that should be fun. I don't remember what all transmissions this adapter will work for, but it gives you options. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/107926-w-series-toyota-trans-adaptors/
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Mercy... that is dusty. Initially, I was scared by the title, but it's turning out pretty well. I like how you painted over the chrome. You may have inspired me to do that. How well did the dash turn out? It looks really good from the picture.
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Front end parts needed 86 Brat
BratRod replied to Dinky26's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
RockAuto, but under an 84 GL. I order most of my Brat parts as an 84 GL. Strut rod: MOOG Part # K9221 Rack and pinion bushings: RAYBESTOS Part # 5777014 and RAYBESTOS Part # 5777013- 1 reply
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Alignment-Steering-Suspension? SAFTEY
BratRod replied to Dinky26's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Way back when I got my Brat, my father and I were driving to the city. The brat started to shake at about 65... and a few minutes later the tire started to fall apart. I bought a set of new tires, the mechanic came in personally and told me the front end was shot and that an alignment probably wouldn't help much, but he did it anyway. Did not shake again. After I replaced just about every suspension part possible, it rode a lot better than originally, and the wheel was much more straight. As for parts failing, I would jack the front end up and have someone wobble the wheel while you look for what has slack. That will give you a better idea of how bad it is. I have replaced front end parts on peoples cars that scare me pretty bad. (Tie rod cup was CRACKED, and she was still driving it.) Sometimes parts fail when they shouldn't, and don't fail when they should. I have seen plenty examples of both. My general rule is: better safe than sorry. Hope this helps. Don't take my word as fact, though. This is just my experience, and opinion. -
It was dark when I got home, so no Brat photos. The FSM should clear up most of what you are asking about, though. If you still need the actual photos: let me know, and i'll make an effort to get them. Edit: Here's a exploded that's not upside down. http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r484/BratRod/IMG_0001-page-0_zps10b1eecf.jpg NVM... it wont work correctly. I'll deal with it tomorrow... i'm very tired and my scanner did not help with that
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The inner tie rod screws on to the rack and pinion. No pin, just un screw. (there is a safety clip deal, but does not effect your ability to get it off) The boot does have to come off to access the inner tie rod, but only on the side that touches the rack, NOT completely off. I have my 85 brat apart for front end work. I'll snap some shots of it and the FSM when I get a chance.
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I was gonna say Malibu, not a lot of car to see. Still a pretty beast car.
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- Subaru Baja
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I love it! Leds look like teeth. Great project. Don't tell me that's a Boss in the garage...
- 104 replies
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- Subaru Baja
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