BratRod

Weberized Brat GL Been taken around the block almost everyday for the past week, and haven't had any problems. Still runs fine. Starts better in the cold than the Hitachi. Haven't modified anything involving the electrical system except for the stereo using stock power. The wire to the coil appears fine. Do these tend to fail? I haven't seen a scenario quite like this before. Thanks, guys.

Did you grease the sliders when you put the new calipers on? It's an easy step to miss.

Should I send you the bill for the heart-attack you gave me? lol Pristiiiiiiine. Sucks about the seats, though. How's the auto?

I was talking about the ECM. Not the CC computer.

It would only have all that if it were a California model.

Yeah. There are factory service manuals. They pop up on eBay pretty regularly. Moosens has some 70's manuals, he might be able to get you one.

That's going to be an upsetting tear down.

Looks good! Does the 91 have noticeable power gain?

That's what did it in my brat. Sat for 4 months because I was too stubborn to pay the $100.

You would need the flexplate, transmission cross member, wiring, the shifter, the plate the shifter mounts to, (requires cutting and welding in place) and I think there is a downshift switch on the pedal... Regardless of what it is. You need that. Need a 3.7 diff for the rear. And I remember reading somewhere that the trans tunnel is smaller on manual cars, which could make swapping an automatic a pain... Don't hold that to me, though. I don't think you have to switch the pedal box from manual to auto, but it would probably be better to have the bigger pedal if its her first car. If you have a whole parts car; the swap shouldn't be that hard. Or maybe it is. I have an auto and manual brat, they're really similar as one would think.

Howdy, been a while since you posted. To clarify; do you mean the splined hub that the shaft slides into? You'll be better off buying a pair from a member, than finding some new. Or if you do; they'll be expensive. The transmissions are known to have shifter bushing problems. There's a couple of DIY ways to fix that. Driver side CV could be blown or all the power is going to the other wheel because of the stripped hub. Very unlikely that the front diff is wasted, but not impossible. The neutral problem? Could you describe a little more what it does exactly. Finding parts down here is tough. I've bought just about everything from up north, and shipping sucks... but it's the only way to keep both Brats happy.

I'm more concerned that it's in Texas.... That side mount spare is hilarious, though.

Everyone I've seen has just used the fitting provided, and cut the pipe out. Not sure of thread size and pitch. Not sure on power/smoothness. if you search around on google, I'm sure you could find some stuff.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142515-thanks-usmb-for-the-quarter-in-asv-mod/?hl=quarter

So Took a gamble on a clutch kit on Ebay. Normally I'd be pretty leery of "Factory OEM original NOS...." type stuff, but it worked out. The seller only specified "1985 Brat clutch kit," and with all the other clutches that are out there like the 23 spline 225mm and the 21 spline 200mm and so on it gets hard to find a good clutch when nobody knows what they have. Anyway, the box got here today. Measured the disk: 8 7/8, 21 spline. I was very happy. Obviously not for this Brat, but for my other one. Just figured I'd post it here. Only tape broken was the big box; everything else was still sealed. Friction disk, Pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throw-out bearing. All Subaru! For the low-low price of $80 shipped! Much happiness. On a side note... I cleaned the gas tank out, and it's now running under its own power. Once the weber gets rebuilt this thing should come alive... as much as an automatic can.

So you got that clean Brat in corpus for $1500? Nice.

I have done 5 CVs on my brats (not always replacing) and I can tell you that it can take at most a couple hours provided everything cooperates. Here is how I do them: Bust the 36mm castle nut while on the ground. At this time check and make sure the cone washer and flat washer are there and in good shape. Jack the car up and take the wheels off. Take the caliper and caliper bracket off (2 16mm(?) off and remove the castle nut. then loosen the bolt to the ball joint. And drop the control arm. The radius rod will have some pressure applied, but don't worry about it. Take a block of wood (or rubber mallet) and beat on the end of the axle. Feel free to put the castle nut on upside down to have some peace of mind. If you feel the axle move that's good. There is a special tool for this, and I believe you can use other types of pullers, too. Once you have gotten the axle to move, un-bolt the two bolts to the strut that slide into the knuckle. You should now be able to pull the knuckle off. Hopefully the axle is loose enough to just slide out of the hub. If not, get creative with some "persuasion." Now that you have the axle out; you have to punch the roll pin out of the inner joint. I've heard that these can be... Fairly stuck... But I haven't had this problem. Beat on it with a punch and hammer till it comes out. Then the axle should slide off the inner splines. let me know if I can clarify anything. It's a pretty simple task if your car is all rusted to hell. Its been awhile since I've done one (thank god) so I may have forgotten something. But that is the main stuff to look for. This is how I do it. Feel free to do whatever you want as there are MANY ways to do this. Hope this helps!

Glad it was an easy fix.

Wow! That's a clean Brat. Good score.

Cool, cool. Welcome. This place is a priceless honey pot of information that will serve you very well with you Brat. There are a few of us younger folks on here. Me. 85 brat was my first. It got addicting, so a got another one. Then there is Turbosubarubrat. He's had a bunch of brats and a handful of wagons. Then RustyBrat has a wagon and brat. Anyway, your exhaust problem isn't as bad as it sounds. If you don't have to do an emissions test, then don't worry about the cat. Or just hollow it out. 5-800 seems kinda high for what it sounds like you need.

Make an account on a free photo-hosting website like photo bucket or Imgur, (my recommendation) and upload your pictures there. Super easy on Imgur. Hit upload and select pics from computer. Then go to your images on Imgur and click on them. They should prompt a few different links. Copy the one marked "IMG URL (for fourms and messages boards)" and paste it into whatever thread you're in. Hope this helps.

I only saw that you originally posted it as 4WD. I didn't know you changed it. How did you convert it?

You do know that these are FWD when not in 4WD, right? No burnouts without pulling an axle up front. Even then: it's an EA82. Don't expect much.

14? That's crazy. Video?

If you do decide to go analog; I have a complete dash harness for an 84. Not sure if it will work as it's non turbo. But it's un-cut with all relays and such.