LeolaPA

The diff oil is just a light brown color. I can't say for certain that there is no ATF in it, but it doesn't look bad. The ATF I think is coming from the back end of the trans (right where the driveshaft come out.) I DID check the cooler lines and did not see any problem there. There is fluid slung above the location where it seems to be coming from, so it looks like it is coming out and getting whipped by the driveshaft on the underside of the car.

I had this tacked into a different thread, but I think it may be lost there. Last week I noticed that my front differential oil level was low, so I topped it off, and in doing so over filled it. I don't know the amount of fluid that the dipstick measures between the filled line and the low line, but I probably only put in half a bottle of gear oil. Anyway, I took the car on a 60 mile trip Friday night where I was hitting 70 at some times. When I got partway there I saw smoke coming from the back of the car and smelled what I thought was gear oil. At my destination I saw that there was fluid dripping off the exhaust system. I couldn't get under the car and had no time to try to do more with it. I drove it home, and the smoking and leaking continued. Today we drove the car to church in an effort to maybe burn off the oil and see what was going on. 10 mile trip both ways. On the way home, the car stalled at the stop sign, which is weird. As we are driving, the smoke is continuing. I got it home, and decided to check to see if the diff. oil level was lower now. NO, it was NOT. It was still over the Full mark. Then I checked the AT fluid level. It was below the the end of the dipstick. I put in 1.5 quarts with the engine running, but it still wasn't up to full. I decide to pull the car into the garage, and see a trail of ATF fluid behind the car into the garage. A big puddle of ATF was on the ground where the car was. So it looks like there is some major leaking going on of the transmission, and I don't know why the differential still shows more than full, when I assumed that it was leaking differential oil on my first trip. Tonight I put it up on jackstands and I think that the fluid is coming out of the seal at the back end of the transmission right at the driveshaft. So, would replacing that seal and draining some differential oil fix this, or could that front trans seal be a problem? I really don't understand how that front seal leaks. It would be a blessing if it is just the rear transmission seal. It's hard to imagine how a seal could just start letting ATF fluid run out so easily. I would appreciate any comments from you guys who know this stuff so well. Thanks! Oh, this was the car that was stalling when put into gear on real cold days...not sure if that is fixed or not, but it might be.

Jacked the car up, and it seems like ATF is coming out of the back of the trans at the driveshaft.

Today we drove the car to church in an effort to maybe burn off the oil and see what was going on. 10 mile trip both ways. On the way home, the car stalled at the stop sign, which is weird. As we are driving, the smoke is continuing. I got it home, and decided to check to see if the diff. oil level is lower now. NO, it was not. It was still over the Full mark. Then I checked the AT fluid level. Below the the end of the dipstick. I put in 1.5 quarts, but it still isn't up to full. I decide to pull the car into the garage, and see a trail of ATF fluid behind the car into the garage. So it looks like there is some major leaking going on of the transmission, and I don't know why the differential shows more than full, when there is so much oil everywhere. Could this seal blow, and cause the car to leak ATF somehow? If it is a trans removal solution, I may just get rid of it.

I just noticed that my front differential oil level was low, so I topped it off, and in doing so over filled it. I don't know the amount of fluid that the dipstick measures between the filled line and the low line, but I probably only put in half a bottle of gear oil. Anyway, I took the car on a 60 mile trip last night where I was hitting 70 at some times. When I got partway there I saw smoke coming from the back of the car and smelled gear oil. At my destination I saw that there was oil dripping off the exhaust system similar to what you describe above. I just don't understand where this is coming out. Would it be where the driveshaft connects, or somewhere else? I saw another thread on here of a guy replacing a "front seal" where he had the tranny all torn apart. Hopefully that is not it!

Thanks. I put the order in and it is shipping from California, so it should be here next week. We'll see how it goes from there.

elogius it looks like the wiring diagram you supplied shows a "hot" wire, since it goes to a fuse, and a control wire, and I am posting a screen shot of a newer model of the same antenna, that shows a power wire and a control wire, so it looks like there would be no relay needed. If there was, these guys who make these antennas would have a lot of returns I would think, since that would be beyond the scope of most folks to figure out.

I did call the dealer, and I think he quoted me in the $90 range, I think for the mast, but don't remember now. I found a mast seller online. They have masts for about $38. There are also people selling them on Ebay for $20. I wouldn't have gotten into this, but I know that Subaru didn't make the power antenna unit, they buy from somebody, and this one looks the same- at least from the outside. So if it fits, $25 for a new unit is better than buying a mast, in my humble opinion.

I found a replacement power antenna on Ebay Model number AW-PW12 by Metra. It looks from the picture to be identical to the one in my 95 Legacy Wagon. I was wondering if anyone has installed one of these? (Metra tech help says that it is obsolete, and has been replaced by PW-22, by the way.) One issue is that the description talks about 2 wires, when there are 3 wires into my stock antenna. If anyone has experience with this, I would appreciate the help.

Thanks for the info. Bad news that it goes in from the inside of the car. I'll have to get some mirrors and try to look in there the next time i have it jacked up. Kind of a pain to think about spending that time doing that repair!

Does this solenoid have anything to do with the MAP sensor and it's pressure solenoid? If I have incorrect voltage at the map sensor could this solenoid cause that?

Fairtax4me, I got a couple used pressure sources switching solenoids. I tried my test of connecting it up to 12 volts, and got a healthy "click" so I know that the piston inside is moving. I installed it, but the MAP sensor is still doing exactly the same thing... reading 1.6 volts, and not really changing any with engine rpm. There are 3 hoses to the pressure sources switching solenoid... one to engine vacuum, one to the MAP sensor, and a 3rd one that goes under the intake manifold, AND SEEMS TO BE CONNECTED TO YET ANOTHER SOLENOID!!!!!!!!!!!!! Are there no end of these solenoids! Now I am wondering if that is working, because with that hose disconnected there does not seem to be any vacuum there. Of course I don't know what is supposed to be happening at that hose. I tried to look on a parts site... and that solenoid might be called "duty solenoid" but I'm not sure. Anyway, could this be a problem... what is it really called, and is there a way to test it? Thanks for your help on the MAP terminology...

This may be a dumb question, but if there is a rubber donut there, does it go in from the inside of the car? Do I have to pull this steering column to put in where it belongs, or does it go from the outside in, and I can just disconnect the column from the U joint?

I have had a noise in our 95 Subaru Legacy for a year, and yesterday I found out where it was coming from. I was under the car on the steering column shaft, there is a disk on the shaft where it goes through the firewall or the body into the passenger compartment. If I grab the shaft, that disk will bump against the body sheetmetal because it doesn't fit tightly. There is evidence that someone swapped this steering into this car. I wonder if they left something out, or didn't mount something that is supposed to be there. Is anyone familiar with the steering column and knows the parts that are supposed to be there? Oh, the turn signal on this car does not have the rear wiper switch on it, so we think maybe it came out of a sedan to go into our wagon. Don't know if that makes any difference....

Got another MAP sensor and tried it out, but it did almost exactly the same as the one I had. I did find if I disconnected the vacuum entirely that it registered around 3.7 volts. It seems that the vacuum reaching this sensor is controlled by the solenoid right beside it. I am going to get another one of those and try it out. I did take that solenoid apart, and I don't see anything wrong with it. I put 12 volts on it and got the little piston inside to move if it is in there by itself, but if the spring is in place the piston can not overcome the spring, even though it is a very light spring. Anyway, we'll see what happens with a different one when it gets here.

Tomorrow I will have the garage clean enough to bring the car inside, and I will measure it before I buy a new one.

I'm thinking of getting a Bosch 15726 universal o2 sensor, but I read a review on one of the parts sites that said that it was physically too long. Has anyone here installed one of these? I have a 95 Legacy LSi with the 2.2 motor. I'm the person who has been struggling with the stalling when cold.

Decided to check the front oxygen sensor last night. There is 12 volts at the connector, but the heater resistance on the sensor only measured 3.3 ohms, when Haynes says it is supposed to measure 30 ohms. I left the sensor unplugged. This morning I started the car and put it in gear and it drove immediately without stalling. Drove it around the block. So I will be buying an O2 sensor. I saw a comment on the Advance Auto Parts (or maybe it was Pep Boys) site that if you buy the Bosch sensor that doesn't come with a connector, that the sensor is physically too long to fit the space. The photo looks longer than the exact replacement one. I wonder if this is true, or what? A number of people sell this sensor. It's about $40 cheaper.

Is there something about NGK plugs that is different from other plugs? I'm really impressed with double platinum plugs.

I checked the voltage at the MAP sensor today. The Haynes manual says it should be 3 volts at idle, but this one is 1.5 volts. I ordered another MAP sensor from a guy on Ebay. If you felt this car die when you put it in gear, you would never talk about the wires or the plugs. It runs great when started, it runs great when warm. It's not the plugs or the wires. I put in a new air filter. Someone mentioned pulling the plug on the upstream o2 sensor. I will do that also. I am open to vacuum leaks still, but if it is that, I'm wondering if it is a hidden line somewhere? If anyone knows of one running somewhere that it out of sight and prone to be bad, let me know.

Well, wrong again. It's not fixed. Started it this morning. About 25 degrees outside. Put it in gear and it stalled....

Oh, you would be horrified, but I just put Autolite plugs in it. Why? I recently took a set of double platinum Autolites out of my Ford Windstar van that were 10 years old, and they could have gone another 20 years... no degradation of the electrodes, no change of gap, nothing. The previous owner had put champion double platinum in this Subaru, and they were fine also, except a little dark. I would have left them in except that I broke one.

Well, I think the problem is solved.... Yes, a couple people mentioned vacuum leak. Well, I looked over all the vacuum lines, and checked and double checked, but couldn't find any problem. So, today I'm focusing on MAP sensor, and I find one on Ebay, and I'm looking in that area a couple times. There are no cracked hoses there either, BUT, one of the two short hoses that are in that area, the one connected to the little plastic filter on the long vacuum line to the engine.... that dumb little hose comes right off the little pipe it is attached to. It had expanded and gotten hard. Hmmm. So I got some hose and replaced it. I checked the other short one that goes to the MAP sensor itself, and it wasn't as bad, but was also hard and easy to pull off. So I replaced that one also. Probably not more than 8" total of hose. So, it's about 25 degrees here, and I start the car and put it in gear right away.... and voila! No stall. So I put it in drive... no stall. I backed out of the driveway and drove it around the neighborhood, and there was not a hesitation or hint of stalling. SO, I think this is fixed, and you guys that kept mentioning vacuum were right. The test of this is that I will start it and drive it a couple mornings to verify it. A couple times before when I thought that it was fixed it turned out I was wrong. In the IAC area, I had taken it off and cleaned it the other day, and it really wasn't dirty or sticking at all. I did reset the solenoid on top close to where it had been. I will see how the car idles (rpm) and drives in the next couple days, and go from there with the IAC. I had put Allen socket screws on it, so it is easy to loosen it and tighten it. I don't know if the ECU in this car has to "learn" to reset itself or not. I did have the battery out for a couple hours yesterday doing the valve cover seals. We'll see how the car runs in the next couple days. Again, thanks everyone for the comments and the persistence on the vacuum issue. If I was to pick a place where there would be vacuum hose problems, it would be near the engine, where it is hot and there is vibration. These little hoses are on the firewall away from all that, but it is a 17 year old car, and I guess with no clamp, once that rubber aged and got hard, it just loosened up. Kind of what I found with the sunroof drain hoses.

"again, timing" Not sure what that means. I replaced the valve cover gaskets and plugs today. Not because of this problem, but to stop oil leak dripping its way back to get on the cat. converter and making bad smell. The old plugs looked good...except dark...like too rich mixture. Reread this whole thing tonight. I didn't follow up with any MAP sensor change. I don't have one, so I might have to go get one tomorrow...

When I was a kid, I had a single channel radio control outfit that had something called an "Adams Actuator" instead of a servo to control the tail. It was a similar thing... a couple magnets and a coil. If you put power to it, it would turn and stay in one position. It could be that this IAC takes some kind of square wave... I don't know, but with just 3 volts dc it moved maybe 0.080 and stayed there until the power was released. Someone gave me the name of a guy in California who does some hi-tech stuff with cars, so I am going to call him later. The bad thing is that if he says... OH yeah, just set it with x volts to certain pins, it means that I have to take it off again.....