samneric

My brat came with some foam inserts crafted niftily from a template of the space they need to occupy. They are white on the exterior and black on the interior - they fit well - just need a better hook/unhook solution plus some black tape around the edge - bits of foam spit out everywhere when I take them off :-\ As for the Jeep A/C... That'd work well if you carry around a 6500W Craftsman generator in the bed of your Brat Of course, it'd also be able to power the amplified speaker system you'd need to drown out the Briggs & Stratton along with a sh¡t load of glade to overpower the gas vapours Steve

Made myself a new gasket this afternoon from Felpro "Rubber Fibre" gasket material. It doesn't look as "rubbery" as the gasket from my kit... A bunch of coolant pumped into the intake when I removed the carb due to the "altitude difference" of the rad cap. Drained rad down to a lower level than the carb and installed my new gasket below the spacer (no hole for coolant to carb). Put back together and started. No external leaks after run up to temp (there were before). Engine ran rough on idle but fine after hitting the gas. Still does this after about 3-4 mile run... Is this because if water in the inlet passages? Wouldn't it have all gone into the cylinders by now??? Curious - I will run it and see.... Steve

LUCK!!!! Here's my recent foray into EA81ness... http://www.alonzostreet.com/steve/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=408 Wot are you doing with the old wagon once the engine is out? ?! Steve

No, but it is more environmentally friendly. I recently troubleshot a problem with a friends A/C whose rubber hose had a pin hole leak (not sure how). In this case, the system would hold a vacuum but not the pressure - because the rubber is being sealled by the vacuum. Good old fashioned water spray on the pieces found the leak. I'm sure the average joe-bloe doesn't own an evac system so I'm sure that 1/2 pound of R134 is going into the atmos once the leak is found :-p Of course, the cost or renting the nitrogen and having the space to keep the canister may outway the "environmental concerns" I have two cars and 4 HVAC systems in my house/appt so I can justify having a canister - keeping the R22 and R134 company in the garage... Steve

If beckoned on will, that could come in handy as a little James Bond addition to your weapon inventory Steve

Coming from the UK, I couldn't resist the opportunity to sneak in a cheeky "Pictures of Lily" gag Looks like you've got a good base car to build from there - good find - I'd like one of those one day. And an svx.... And another wrx.... And a baja.... ... Steve

I concur with all of the above. One addition to the component list.... A throttle pullback device for increasing the engine RPMS when the compressor is engaged. Plus one extra question because my current setup is R12.... Will the compressor be able run the system as efficiently on R134 or do I need to invest in a new one??? Mine is old to start so I guess that's a no brainer. manifold and gauge set - cheap investment nitrogen - cheap to rent a canister Rotary Vane Deep Vacuum pump - free rental from Autozone. It is indeed possible but I would also read up on how refrigerant systems work to gain a better knowledge for installation and troubleshooting. I recommend this (bible!) http://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Air-Conditioning-Technology-5E/dp/1401837654/ref=pd_sim_b_title_2 or simply do your research on the net - find a source of information that is easy to digest - A/C isn't rocket science but it does involve calculations and the understanding of several principles that can be intimidating if you are reading a discourse from a physics PHD.... For the price of a MasterCool electronic refrigerant sniffer, I would also recommend buying one of these to aid in any A/C leak detection. This will pay for itself in one or two situations that could lead you to spending $$$$$ at a shop that wants to install a new compressor when all you have is a leaking rubber tube. Steve

Once you go Black, you won't go Back Makes sense in a similar manner to making the Synthetic engine oil switch. I know you're not supposed to use regular oil once you've run synthetic.... Steve

Just bought my Redline here: http://www.amazon.com/Line-Lightweight-Shockproof-Gear-Oil/dp/B000CPI5YG I reckon I can pick up the other two from an AutoZone... Steve

The FSM says a 4WD/DR transaxle contains 3.2 qts so I assume you need to dump out your old fluid, add this and run it a while.. Then flush the cocktail and re-fill with whatever you intend to keep in their longtime. I'm using Royal Purple synthetic 75/90. (Unless this concoction is designed to be run as a replacement for your regular oil????) Steve

This may indeed be the beast.... While I was switching out the PCV, I noticed a puddle of coolant on the block, behind the carb. The heater hoses don't connect anywhere near so I can only assume that the puddle came from the carb.... Now to buy some Felpro gasket paper - I guess Napa will sell that... I will make sure I don't cut out the coolant hole in the gasket. Steve

When rebuilding my engine I noticed the coolant line going into that port in the intake. Can you just disconnect that hose or does the coolant also come from the rest of the intake's coolant supply? Steve

Also... where does one get a new/rebuilt tranny - I called CSR the other day and they are no longer doing transmissions.... Steve

Where did you get oem ones from? Dealership??? I just ordered some new intake gasketes from RockAuto - made by Corteco. They look like more solid material than the Felpro ones. Just replaced the PCV and tube (because it was split at the connection). It runs nice now but it may just be in one of its "good" moods. I tested the fuel pressure. It is 1 PSI on idle and during acceleration. There is no PSI with engine off and ignition on. I thought it was supposed to go on for 10 seconds to prime the system????? Was gonna try some RTV gasket sealer under the plastic carb piece next... I just ordered a new head gasket set. I'm gonna pull the heads off my spare Brat and see what condition they are in. The ones I just serviced have that crack and the valve guides on cylinder 3 are lose. I only get compression of 160 on that cyl also - all others are 170. Will keep posted with more news events. Steve

In the second shot in my Gallery, the cut-out section of the cylinder head shows how far down Gravityman's crack went down. The gallery below the port is the water jacket. If the crack goes down that far, water gets sucked in with the air/fuel. If that IS my problem, I can understand why the symptoms appear when cold - more water leaks through the crack until the head warms, expands and lets less water through. The gaskets I used on the intake came with the Felpro set and were grey in color. I've heard people recommend OEM gaskets only for the intake and wondered if these Felpro ones compare. My only other concern is where the carb mounts onto the intake. The FSM says to install two gaskets (I presume one on each side of the plastic spacer block). I only installed one gasket (all the came in the kit) on the upper side of the spacer... Could water leak from the coolant passage into the inlet passage if there isn't a gasket underneath the plastic spacer??? I checked the water level in the rad this morning and its definately gone down. Gonna go out and buy a vac/fuel pressure gauge to run some tests..... Has anyone had intermittent hesitation from a faulty fuel pump before? I'm concerned that it will read the correct pressure when I have it idling but may be intermitantly putting out lower pressure when driving... Steve

Ut Oh, After getting my car back together after my head gasket job I have been getting "Billows" of white smoke from the exhaust when cold. The smoke clears up after about 20-30 seconds. The engine also runs eratically - sometimes fine, sometimes hesitates, esp at low rpms. After searching the forums, my first guess is a crack in the heads although I wonder if it could also be coolant from the carb gasket or intake gaskets.... Wouldn't I get smoke all the time if these were the culprits??? I did notice a crack between cylinder 3's ports that seemed to go a scarily long way into the chamber - like as I remember past the valve guide.... I have a photo of the crack and an example of an ER27 crack from Gravityman on the site here... http://www.alonzostreet.com/steve/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=575 Its hard to see the crack but I as I remember it goes quite a way down. First impressions are appreciated - I think I'll also go get a vacuum gauge and compare the results to the chart that Nipper posted in a recent thread. Steve

Wow, so the ball bearings can ride over the spring clip that sits in the end of the DOJ ??? If all else fails and you want some decent axles.... www.cvaxles.com Just got a pair for mine and they even come all painted black - Jagger would be jumpin jack flash Steve Steve

I feel your pain with the issues you are having - I've just had my fair share of frustration with mine. The good news is these guys on the forums can help you out when you are ready to tackle the issue. I've never experienced hydrolock but that is the first thing I would attempt to diagnose because reading into the idea, water in a cylinder would cause the symptoms you are having. Any electrical motor will draw more voltage (actually Current) when it is obstructed and can't spin. This heat is simply the side effect of electrons travelling through a wire and if more electrons (current) flow, more heat will be produced. Electrical friction ! yeah baby! Anyway, taking your spark plugs out and trying again is a cheap an quick way of ruling the hydrolock problem out. As another member pointed out recently, each step that you take isn't meant to be the final solution (although its great when it is the first step), more like a series of tests to rule arrive at the ultimate fix. A side affect of your troubleshooting will be that you get to learn more and more about how your car works.... As for no car - bicycles get great MPG Steve

It works!!!!!!!!!!!!! :banana: :banana: I'm not sure whether I have the wrong clutch cable or my flywheel is worn down but the adjusting bolt ran out of thread on the cable before the lever became tight. I simply added a lock nut which is somewhat round on the end in between the adjusting screw and the clutch lever. The peddle is "Light as Hell" now I have a new release bearing and greased up holder and tranny splines :headbang: Wonderful - its like a new car - Finally after two months off the road :clap: I can't praise myself enough Steve

Pics of the new clutch... http://www.alonzostreet.com/steve/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=561 Can't wait to see if it works...unfortch, looks like we have rain today so won't be able to do much Steve Durania - check out this other clutch set from RockAuto, seems to have more contact area... RHINO PAC Part # 15003 8-7/8" OD x 7/8" ID x 21T $152.79$0.00$152.79

Well I slaved away all afternoon and just got finished putting the tranny back up into the car and the prop shaft onto the rear diff so nothing is touching the ground, high and dry from the oncomming storm. I slotted the disc onto the tranny shaft just to make sure it fitted - hurrah - it did! When it came to aligning the disc, I just used the oversized tool and guessed the center by moving it up down, left and right. Luckily I must have come close because it took about 20 mins and a lot of heaving, huffing and incrementally rotating the engine to get the final push of the tranny up to the engine. Didn't get chance to hook up the clutch cable and give it a shot so I will have to wait till tomorrow to see if all is well :popcorn: Will check back in when I have it running and going backwards and forwards.... Steve

Well so far, so good-ish.... The clutched arrived today. From first glance, it does look like the disc hub has the correct number of splines, however.... 1) The pressure plate looks used (possibly re-man). 2) There is no pilot bearing included (hopefully, the one from my other kit will be the same) 3) There is no alignment tool included Are there any techniques in aligning the clutch without one??? I'm off home to attempt to install it before the rain comes down and my transmission gets flooded - will check back in later... Steve

It points towards the back of the vehicle. I doubt it would fit the other way.... Steve

So I got sent the wrong clutch set for my job (a 24 spline with bigger center hole disc). I then ordered an OEM kit from 1stsubaru which is apparantly back ordered from japan and will take 1 month to arrive So I go looking for an alternative and stumble across this little beauty from one of my favorite aftermarket manufacturers.... AdvanceAutoParts (powered by PartsAmerica) offer this B/A clutch kit for $260..... RockAuto seems to be selling them off cheap :headbang: Anyway, I ordered one and if it fits, I'll give y'all the heads up for if it works properly, this is surely the sale of the century :clap: Steve BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0619131 225mm Diameter;1 Per Car Clutch Set, 225mm Diameter;8-7/8" Diameter;21 Splines;1 Per Car [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty (Only 13 Remaining)] $92.79$0.00$92.79