samneric

OK, Thanks for the info, I tried swapping the direction of the clamp and it did switch the polarity... New readings: Engine on, Everything off: 5a out of the batt, 2-3 in. Engine on, Everything on: 33a out of the batt, 2-3 in. There are 15a going into fusible link#2 via the large diameter white wire. Still only 2-3a coming out of the fuses and going into the battery. Is this the correct amperage for a slow charge or chould 15a be comming out and into the battery? Steve

Tas been a while since dabbling with my charging system and I decided to have another stab at this after buying a new battery to rule that out as well. So I now have a new Alt, new Batt and new battery connectors on the end of the wires. I measured voltage with the car off and it read 12v. I ran the car and I get 14-15 at various probe points on the system.... My latest acquisition is a clamp ammeter so today I read the amps at various points along the line. From battery neg to engine block is about 6a. From Fusible Links back to battery pos is about 4a. Out from the alternator was -4 (maybe the sign changes depending on the direction of the current flow). Engine revs made no difference to the amperage. I looked at the wiring diagram to get a little insight. It looks as though the charging cable goes to the fusible links, then on the plug that connects to the alt, one wire goes to the dash to indicate charge and the other seems to junction with the charge line. There is a crack in the casing of one of the plug wires but other than that all seems ok. Shouldn't I get an increase in amps out and into the batt when the engine is revved??? Can I connect the alt output directly to the batt pos to test the alt??? This has me flumuxed. I need to know where to start trouble shooting with my new wonder ammeter. Thanks all, Steve

Hey thanks Nipper, Skip, Cougar !!... Sorry for the delay in replying.... I'll see if I can track down one of these ammeters or at least check the voltage output under load... Oh one other question: Can I connect this ammeter in series with the alternator output to the battery or other points along the charging line if disconnected? I'll post back when I have a result. Steve

The one from Napa looked like a sophisticated multimeter. It was bigger than your normal device and had various buttons on it along with the two crocodile clamps on cables. The one from Autozone came on a wheel-out cart. It was a bigger machine with bigger crocodile clamps and cables. It was like a small computer. It had a digital readout for volts and amps. As soon as you hooked up the clamps to the bat, the voltage showed. I had to run the car at about 2000rpm before the amp ouput test gave its result. Steve

Sorry for reviving the dead! Since last posting on the thread (when I figured all was OK), the battery would gradually lose its charge. I had it checked with a small machine from Napa and was told that the battery was tested as being able to accept a charge and to check my wires. At this point I changed out the battery terminals along with the connector to the alternator. It was fine until the cold set in and I've had a couple of days with clicks followed by eventual start. So I went to Autozone and had them hook up the "Real" batt/alt testing machine. The battery test (after 45 secs) said it needed a re-charge before a re-test. The alt test measured peak amp output of 2.9 First question - how can I measure amp output myself? I have a fancy multimeter but it only measures up to 20a - I was told the amp test should have read at least 100 peak amps. I'd like to measure the amps from the back of the alt to the battery to trace a bad wire condition. Second question - Could a faulty voltage regulator (afixed to the charge connecter on the outside back of the alt) prevent amps from passing through it? It all seems to point to being able to measure more than 20 amps and I get the feeling a tester that reads in this range is going to be expensive :-\ Thoughts, anyone? Steve

Fair enough

Yeah, not sure where I read about it turning to amps after start.... I think it was the Haynes manual Just out of curiosity I was chatting with my Dad last night who explained that the voltage regulators of old (His was a Ford Anglia) consisted of coils and points. Now I can kinda see how a coil could be used to moderate voltage but does anyone know how solid-state regulators work???? Steve Steve

Thanks for the advice all, xoomer: Thanks for the warranty donation offer. I've been out of town sailing a boat back from Florida (coupla near misses during nighttime fog as tug boat barges navigating the Intercoasted Waterway on autopilot ignored our spot light signals ). So haven't had a chance to respond back with status update.... Upon advice, last Thursday, I changed out the battery and alternator. Still no lights on the dash. I already checked the fusible links so I figured I do a double check.... In the past, the red one had craftily been blobbed back together with solder so with a curious test prod, low and behold, one of the wires was free to flop around. I fanangled it into a more secure resting point on the dab of solder and tried again - BRRRRRRRUUUUUM ! I have never seen a voltage regulator before so if it is the little rascal that screws onto the alt and has a wire connecting to the batt output then the replacement alt I switched in last week didn't have one. So when adding my newly aquired BA recon alt, I swapped over the little device from my original alt before installing. I temporarily re-soldered the fusible link and re-installed my original Duralast Batt and its been running like a champ since I got a refund on the Napa Batt that I had purchased so all is good - a nice new $100 BA alt and a good batt so I'm good to go. I will swap in the red fusible link from my other Brat tonight to complete the job and then go on a hunt for a backup fuse. Anyone know where you can get your hands on one of these strange subie fusible links nowadays???? Steve

The gauge was revving all the way up to the top with the engine rpms..... Ut Oh...

Thanks for the quick response y'all. The battery is relatively new (within a year) and is a Duralast Gold which always did me well. I haven't tried the jumpleads for 10 mins trick so I'll give it a go... Is there a way to tell it's charged because I get a good voltage (12) but my voltmeter only shows amps up to 20 and then I guess there has to be a load to draw the amps. I also charged the battery from my other Brat all day with my charger and that also didn't seem to put out power. bizzare. My old alt was probably the orig and was definately on its way out so maybe that killed the battery - I hope not - those things are 80 bucks! Steve

Hi all, Had dipping volt (I guess amps when running) gauge on my dash and finally switched out the alt with a spare when it struggled to start. With the spare in place, the gauge stayed nicely in the middle of the range for a while then all of a sudden started rising with the speed of the engine, kinda in parallel with the tach. The car got home ok but wouldn't start in the morning. The alarm led is flashing but the dash doesn't light up with the key set to ignition. Tried jumping it with another car but still not even faint dash lights. Could this be something fried by the wack voltage increase??? My only other guess is the alarm (viper) is imobalising the ignition. Any ideas where to start ? ? Steve

Like the cat that's got the cream Have fun with it! Lavish the smell Steve

"Now it's time to make like a tree and ... get outta here"

So this is where I get to call myself "Mc Fly". I turned in the pistons but one of them wasn't lined up with the notch on the pad :-\ I also cleaned off all that moly grease cuz its only gonna collect brake dust and clog up the pad's travel at a later date. Silent as a mouse now :banana: Steve

Installed new pads last night (forgot what a NIGHTMARE twisting those pistons back in is!) and got a bit of a squeal when I test drove it. Figured they just needed to bed in but this morning they got worse...I cringed every time I hit the brakes cuz I don't want peeps thinkin old subes are rattle boxes. Several odd things I noticed while installing.... The shrink wrapped copper spring parts were only half complete - only a set for one caliper. Then when I had the moly grease installed - the damn pads wouldn't fit in the caliper and comparing to the old ones, they seemed to be over sized due to poor manufacturing so I filed the tops down until they would fit in the groove. Anways, I forgot the brand name (it was three letters, maybe mgx or something) but was wondering if anyone else had a bad experience with pads??? I'm look at 'em again tonight to see if I can spot why they arn't releasing.... Steve

I personally have a soft spot for good old "Bug Eyes"! Now where did THIS radical design ever go Steve

Nice one Connie, having the opportunity to buy a new car is a great feeling aint it? We only have a small dealership here in New Orleans but when I got my Wrex and it finally came in from Jap, I literally had them put it in their tiny show room so I could drive it out When I got mine, it was the first WRX they brought over to the states so I was a little apprehensive also but Subaru do build quality cars - the only recalls theu had were tiny niggling issues that were quickly fixed. Subaru even sponsored a race day for all owners of new Wrexs and said at the start of the day "Don't worry, we'll still honor your warranty if you bring it in tomorrow with a broken A/C" ! ! Smacks of confidence in their product.. Steve

Alrighty then, I've been messing around a lot with my Hitachi carbs at the moment so I've picked up a bit along the way... For your first picture, this is how it should hook up: As GD said, both the Vacuum Distributor advance and Vacuum EGR valve are typically used for emissions control. The Thermo valve either supplies fresh air to these two, or as the engine temp changes, vacuum from the two ports on the carb. As far as I can guess, below 68 degress C, the Dissy and EGR are driven by their vacuum ports, then above that temperature till 104 degress C, the thermo valve opens and lets in the fresh air which stops the Dissy advance and EGR valve from operating. Above 104 degress, the thermo valve closes off the fresh air again so the two devices are once again controlled by vacuum. My best guess is that when the engine is cold, the Dissy Advance helps get the car going and then when it reaches running temp (above 104), the emssions systems are advancing the timing and opening the EGR valve to reduce harmful gas formation. For your second picture, you already have the distributor hooked up but these are the other two: You can follow the fixed lines on the driver's side to the Thermo Vacuum valve. You can also see the canister hookup (middle connection on top) to your remaining line on your first photo: And then finally on to the rear shot with the Hitachi Accelerator hookup: Hope this helps. Steve

I have been having random stalling issues and fluctuating tach after swapping in a recon carb that has been sitting a while. I think I'll try this little gem on mine... Steve

Its my Brat.... Two people in the back with the machine and the groceries is a feat! I hope they left your monster bags of cheetos alone Steve

These are the parts I recently replaced on my Brat..... Not cheap but good quality... http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BA&PartNumber=1013490&Description=Ball+Joint+-+Front+Suspension http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BA&PartNumber=1013489&Description=Tie+Rod+End I prefer NAPA to Autozone because I've had several bad experiences at AZ. I once bought a driveshaft for a Honda CRX, had the car up on jackstands in my apartment complex carpark --- and the damn thing would not fit in the transmission! poor machining. I ended up having to have the car towed to the dealer because I was expecting it done in a night and the next day I was told to move it by the apartment managers... :mad: Steve

Wait for it........ a washing machine..... Ta Daaaa! Ho and a couple of friends squished under the topper, without jump seats, on a regular shuttle service to and from the local Irish bar on New Orleans's pothole ridden obstacle course that could be mistakenly refered to as the streets of the city.... Can you say "Sore Bum?" Steve

Buuuump to the aired. I've always known the rule of thumb to be: Play from top to bottom - Bearing Play from side to side - Steering You need to find where the movement stops... Does the track rod move in and out towards the rack when you wiggle the wheel? I assume you are not lifting both wheels off the ground and the steering wheel is turning Steve

Does it run if you keep your foot on the gas?

Not sure if this means anything to anyone but after comparing Brats I discovered a little mismatch in the subtle weaving of the vacuum and air hoses running around the carb. It appears there was a whole sub-section of these critters missing from my daily driver and after a thorough spot of research I identified what should go where and how. Maybe even why. The two pipes missing from the carb seem to be the Slow and Main system air supply passages and they are hooked up to the air cleaner via another clever vacuum switch that is controlled by a thermo valve. Anyways, not sure if this little addition is causing warmer air to be fed into those carb fittings but it seemed to start and run a tad better when all was said and done... Tomorrow morning will be the real proof of the pudding..... Steve