subarusaver

Hello all, I'm looking to replace my locked up a/c compressor for my 1993 Legacy and trying to find a cheaper than $300 solution.Possibly a pull a part used compressor. Does anyone know which years and/or models I can search. I assume since my compressor is not turn-able by hand , it's not fixable. Thanks for any help or ideas!!

Thank you for the reply! I plan on Mobil1 Full Synthetic 5w30 and very regular oil changes, I like 3-4000 miles.Is there any special: 1) coolant brand/ type 2) rtv brand/type( I really like the pressurized cans) 3) and where to download a good Field Service Manual Thanks again for any help!

HERE WE GO AGAIN...UGHHH 2006 Tribeca 3.0 H6 Just bought a 2006 Tribeca one owner with 149000 miles...seemed fine the day I got it....One week later ,top radiator hose on passenger side developed a small hole and made the engine overheat a little.All this time,I noticed the defroster only put out hot/warm air on the driver side and all the forums say that's a stopped up heater core...Every time I turned the defroster on , the engine temperature would immediately start to rise, then I could bleed the air out and/ or turn the defroster off and the engine temperature would drop immediately .WELL ....maybe its the heater core for some people, not me...So I made a loop and hooked the heater core supply lines together so coolant stays in the engine only..I placed a funnel in the radiator and filled it half way and after about fifteen minutes of idling I still get bubbles and when the engine revs they are even more pronounced... 1) Since I am doing the Head gasket job, are there any special odd things to consider for this engine?(Ive been through this process with my ea82, and with my ej22, and my 1.8 Nissan Sentra). I just want to be prepared 2)Is there a best way to check the heater core while I have the engine out? 3)Since this one has a timing chain(and its really quiet btw) anything special things there to consider? Thanks all for any insights!

IT'S FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :bouncy: :bouncy: :bouncy: :clap: :clap: :clap: :banana: :banana: :banana:!!! The new coil and plug wires did the trick!! purrs like a kitten til you step on its tail,then it runs like a wildcat!!! Thanks all for all the suggestions and help!!

I THINK I FINALLY FOUND THE ISSUE!!!!!!! After getting the crap knocked out of me two or three times, I FINALLY thought to check the coil. (I had laid my hand on it to rest my arm while checking the idle air control valve plug)......After reading lots of info on checking coils and diagnosing coil issues, I found an old forgotten technique, go out at night, raise the hood , crank it up, look for sparks....LOTS OF SLIGHT SPARKS around the front side of the coil, especially as it warmed up.One of the plug wires lit up when I sped the engine up as it was missing.....Pretty sure this is the issue....so simple, I overlooked it...I will close this post with final results either way..off to Rock auto for a coil and some ngk wires!!! Thanks everyone for every suggestion!!!!

Question...When I did the re seal, I changed all the timing components...Before this issue started, there was a weird sound from the engine compartment. The sound was like an inner fender rubbing against the drivers front tire it only happened a few times,and went away too fast to find.It did seem to be keeping up with engine speed...Is it possible the belt or cam jumped a tooth? and would this be consistent with with my issue?

UPDATE 2/23/18 After filling up with 92 octane ( my daughter told me she had put low octane in it last fill up) I put a bottle of Lucas octane boost/not street legal..injector cleaner in it . Noticed positive results within the first 50 miles...The problem is still present.. not as severe but still very much there...Tonight, I pulled the Idle air control valve,marked it well,took the top off and cleaned it real good(it was pretty dirty)..Put it back in place and at first the idle was staying around 1500 rpms and just as before, it performs perfect until it gets a HINT that the engine is beginning to warm up,then it has the slight miss at idle when I pat the gas pedal, and stumbles when in a strain at lower idle (still seems ok at full throttle with an exception of some fluttering just not consistent)...I really hate to keep changing parts,but the check engine light is not activated, since I did find STORED codes in the ecm ,I unhooked the battery to wipe them off...I did unhook the NEW knock sensor while it was running and ...it acts the same...Would the o2 sensor cause the putt putt idle? Thanks for any input!!

ANOTHER UPDATE: Today, I plugged the black test connectors together to get the stored codes and got this: 31 Throttle sensor 32 Oxygen sensor 24 Air control valve.....I am assuming 'Idle Air Control Valve' The notes on Legacy Central say this about the IACV ; "Prevents abnormal engine speed using "fuel cut" in relation to engine speed, vehicle speed, and throttle sensor position". Sounds enough like my issue. according to Legacy Central ode List here http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm I do not have a lit up check engine light, so I will follow the procedure in the Legacy central link and see what that turns up...So Far I'm leaning to Sparkyboy's idea about it being the IACV.....It seems to be going that way..

Update..... Since it has been raining for the past two weeks here ,I decided to just drive the car and pay attention.. The issue seems to be gradually becoming more prominent...or regular.. Definitely noticed at first start up,(for at least two minutes) it will NOT stumble or sputter at all..... As soon as the engine gets a hint of warming up(just when the temp gauge starts to move) the problem is present. After it warms up a little,very little, I notice a definite putt putt putt rhythm when idling , and if I pat the gas , I can feel it shake .Once idled up, its smooth until under a load at lower idle... Also I have been able to get it to flutter and cut out under heavy acceleration.. The check engine light did come on once and went off quickly... Any more Ideas? Thanks!!!

Just found lifters on rockauto.com

Do not pass by this opportunity to replace the clutch release bearing!!You will hate yourself if it makes noise when you put it all back together!!(I have been mad at myself for about two years now!!) If it makes ANY noise when you spin it by hand,REPLACE it !! As for the oil pan gasket....My machine shop guy (old guy..they're the best!) told me to use LACQUER thinner to clean the surfaces of the head and block because it leaves NO residue behind.Now I use Lacquer thinner for ANY sealing surface prep...It does help to go by those stupid instructions like wait five minutes....snug all bolts.......tighten to SPEC..etc...The last few times I have done a reseal(85 gl10 wagon ,93 Legacy ,and 05 Nissan Sentra 1.8,the RTV stuff has proven to be problem free.

When I did the reseal(in November), I pretty much polished everything inside,lapped the valves, cleaned the intake and exhaust ports,cleaned the intake , new spark plugs(double checked the gaps .040 I think)..I did not change the fuel filter or the air filter(It's fairly new)..It seems like the knock sensor is alllllmost working perfectly but failing just a bit....It ran fine before this latest incident..and recently,the idle DID catch my attention before the knock sensor replacement...It just had an odd lope or something..BUT the idle is probly between 500-700 rpms....

NOT SO FAST!!! Okay, it worked great the day I installed it, NOW it seems to be having the same(not as severe) problems coming back..If I try fifth or fourth gear at 1200 rpms, it starts the jerking again......I removed the new sensor, cleaned and wire brushed the block, sprayed it clean with brake clean,put it back annnndd .... it didnt help.... NOW WHAT??? maybe cam or crank sensor???

THANK YOU!!!! Consider this one FIXED!! The car runs ALOT better!!! I did not realize just what the knock sensor does,I do now and the car really does run like a new car!! The old one was and had been cracked ..THANK YOU!!!

Hello all, My 93 Legacy wagon 5 speed ,237000 miles 2.2 ej22 newly re sealed by myself...Complete re seal..heads machined,all gaskets...no leaks .. Approx 3 months ago.Just Today it started jerking in fifth gear....I did notice an odd sound when it was real cold here (10 degrees or so)..sounded like a fan blade rubbing plastic just under the hood in front of the steering wheel (or maybe like a piece of plastic rubbing the tire)..it did not last long enough to chase....or find..Now the problem is it misses ONLY under a load and ONLY a SLIGHT load......it idles fine......runs like a race car!! no problems to 6500 rpms!!! but when I lug it or put it in high gear at LOW engine speed(2000 rpms),it misses terrible...and jerks... No Engine codes, Sprayed everything with brake clean to check for vacuum leaks ??????? Any ideas? Thank you for any help