ivans imports

thiss problem could have been traced with a preshure test gauge on tail section would have seen no prushure to awd and no varyance in preshure to awd or no loss of preshure when fwd fuse was installed has anyone tryed to modify thiss plate to incresae flow ? i took the whole valve assembly out and ran a line strait trough and works good [ race app]

theese carbs had a small screen on the needle and seat for floats if you take the feul inlet line off you can look in the carb and c it look for crap pluging it and on the side of carb is a anti deseiling soilinod make shure its getting power and moveing also check that choke heater bimeatel spring has not broken

flush is good i glue them in with ultra grey and stake them in nothing worse than blown out rear main must use the brown seal from subaru

the pilot berring is not far enuff into the flywheel and input shaft is bottoming out on it or pilot is damaged or disk is backwards doubt its a trany problem have seen lots of pilot berring trubbles but never seen a trany get damaged enuf to lockup on engine install check your work

forester motor update pulled it down to crank fond all rod berrings down to copper where very close to spining this engine had 211000kms on it had a blown headgasket but ran perfectly made a very slight knoking on startup thiss engine whould have died if i had done just headgaskets and sent it out the door. So evry headgasket job that has more than 120000kms on it now includes rod and main berrings. The only warning on theese engines is how mutch or how long it makes nosie on startup any konking or rattleing on startup means needs berrings

nothing like haveing to fix somones messup

well ya what else do you do with it. I dont modify new cars dosent help them mutch thiss cars probly been of the redline lots god only knows whats been done to it i just get them when there broke gets a full engine rebiuld now with no waranty unless stock configuration

broke crown gear thats the tooth trying to get out have done this to one before mine still drove missing a tooth not very nicly but i got it home need a trany is that a 5 speed or 4 speed ?

the one that came in here is a 2009 sti 2.5 with 70000kms on it knocking bad the customer had a tuner on it and some mods exhuast and intake was not abused just started knocking out of nowhere anyone have any experence trying to clean the meatal out of heads on one of theese engines ? i'm woried that will be debrie stuck in the vanos and cam gears

one more thing if you reuse your heads be carfull the cams are hollow and hold meatal debrie and the rocker tubes to was verry hard to get all the meatal out of them when engine has failed

i put the single cam heads on 2.2 s all the time but on the 1.8 i think the valves hit the inside of the barrel the throttle body will not bolt up from 2.5 -1.8 i would be looking for 2.2 bottom end for your car

there is a differance in the idle moters from 1.8-2.5 but the rest is perty mutch the same might take some doing i would put 2.2 heads and intake on your 1.8 thiss will interchange better or just a 2.2 intake if you can find the same year gessing 96-97 2.2 will have the harness that plugs right in you may even get one with egr port the 1.8 with turbo 2.2 heads and turbo setup works good with no mods to bottom end the bigger combustion chambers makes for good low budget turbo engine cheers

pluged oil fillter ditch the 5-30

the idle moter times out should buzz for about 30 seconds after car is shut off normal operation

no but its biger with less support the old one had supports on both sides new ones had one support i had allready determind that the new design ones were not so good so i only run the early pickups from the 2.2 s. Not that subaru enginers dont do a good job but somedays they seem to drop the ball or just save money seems the newer the cars the more engine problems they have

default on a 4eat is only 3rd gear and reverse any problems and this is what you will have

is the speedo working ? its needs the speed signal from speedo to tell tcu when to shift any speedo problems will directly relate to when it shifts

feul pump timing belt distributor not grounded

the deardown takes about half hour about an hour to put back together no specalty tools needed you dont even have to remove the pan the low reverse clutch is the very last one at very bottom you whould need low reverse clutch pack and steels a new band whould be good idea to and mabee forward clutch pack and steels the 4eat is one of the easyest tranys i've ever rebiult i do alot

the conector probly melted because pump was drawing to many amps and posibly seizing

the pickup changed on the newer cars has a heavy bell type strainer thiss weighs more and whould definatny vibrate more than the original ones.Anyway today i'm taking apart a 2.5 1 from a 2001 forester blown headgaskets runs very good still no slap or knocks 210000kms whant to use it as experiment to see what berrings look like on a engine thats running fine with no bottom end problems will take detailed picks of the berrings and post them here will see how they look if i can get past the 6 engine jobs in the way first

the crysler trany has front diff ishsues the spiders wear out and the diff pins fall out of place and hit the case and bang what gd said run run fast or pull pan and look for debrie save the pan and contents and go by a trany shop have them look at contents a good trany tech can look at the materail in pan and tell you what part of tranny is bad just from contents in pan

if you have it out just change it they are very intermitant so may work on bench then leave you stranded its a good idea to just put in new one to rule out any problems it may have.

check seam at block and heads for headgasket leaks leaking headgasket will cause problems like thiss

check main engine harness plugs dident get pulled slightly apart or loose grounds or disturbed a plug wire or dirty coilpack or your actualy geting the power to ground now more load on engine mabee problem is just more apparent now