ivans imports

pluged rad pluged rad and pluged rad head gasket no pluged rad

above the valve body is a fliud transfer line that moves fliud to the rear tail section is a 7\16 stainless line have seen it vibrate and break check it for cracks and remember the soiliniod stops the flow of fliud to turn on awd so it should not hold prehsure the soiliniod is deenergised to turn on awd

I get alot have had 8 since january all knocking by the time i see them they are beond repair. dont get me wrong i get 2.5s with 300000kms on them still running and original but if you took it apart you whould see dammage to upper rod berrings. I do not see thiss in 2.2s and 1.8s or ea81\82 but i do see it in justys same deal bad rod angle

miller tig welder lol

Anuther dead 2.5 1 have determind that headgasket is minoir compared to the real problem { rod angle and berrings ] the 2.5 engines have a steeper rod angle and heavy piston the combanation causes berring fatuge that wears the berrings on the upper rod berring till it spins and wipes out engine dosent seem to matter milage or how it was taken care of or how it ran even on race engines that have not seen many miles always worn on upper rod berring dosent happen on 2.2 or 1.8 just 2.5 thoughts on thiss anyone ?

2.5 stroker with 2.2 heads of course na or turbo i drove my 79 wagon with the 2.5 sti short block with 2.5 twin cam heads and turbo has a 5 speed high low and 31 s go's 130 kms in thrid and puts you in the seat fourth is just to fast to get more than 3500 rpms always run outa road but pulls thruogh the muck and rocks at 500 rpms and dosent bog ever just touch the gas and snaps up instantly is a little bitt tight to fitt in but the old 79 loves it cheers

rear trailing arm front bushing or bad struts

check for dirt or corotion on the ig brown realay it takes very little to turn on realay a tiny bit of dirt will bridge the conection and turn on realy had a leagacy that heater fan would not shut off was a coroded realy the corotion was making a conection between the termanals because the realys get power all the time there the most likly to cause a problem it takes just .5 volts to energise the realay.

got the engine apart funny i knurlled 2\4 and it threw rod on #3 pistons where fine non of the knurl had worn off and the cly was still good the engine had just been overheated and had worn berrings. I think rods and mains every headgasket job is a bitt extreme but may be neccasary to inshure qaulty job. Total time from running to crank on bench 2 hours 45 min.

u can use a loyale rad switch get it to turn on a realy that turns on fan thiss will take load of the switch and make it last longer and fan will run faster and stronger

the older rads had thermo switch low in rad it likes to acumulate crap at bottom of rad and tends to bypass switch check that your rad is getting hot at lower half make shure 195 tremostat and put a 7 psi rad cap theese syestems do not like high preshure rad caps. Should have some room for expanding in rad about 2 inchs from top fan should come on just above half and run for no more than 2 minutes max.

adjust valves to tight on exhaust

Had one come back knocking will c if is piston or failed rod did headgaskets and knurlled 2\4 about 50000 kms ago will get some pics of inside engine has 250000 miles on it should have done rod berrings but customer said no i will see how pistons held up or if knurling caused failure

uumm tower my plane's missing and i'm losing altitude please help lol

kicked that car in the pants gos like stink picks up way faster and takes off better

i have a kent moore wheel bering kitt is made just for rear and front wheel berrings on ej cars comes with the seal drivers make shure the outer hub is pressed in before you install iner seals the iner bering must be suported when you press hub in or berring damage may result try useing a length of redy rod with nuts and big washers to press the seal in washer being the size of seal

done a comp test ? burnt valve ? valve addjustment ? any poping out of exhaust

sounds like the band is geting worn check plugs \wires \coil for tracking

check rear sway bar links first they were not so good in those years

oh hey i put a 3.90 ratio in it with a 2800 high stall converter will tell you how it gos when im done

stop check the brown ig relay for ig signal power this realy powers up first then feul pump check cp senser wires and cam senser wires if ecu dosent see cranking will not send signal to pump realay the svx had poor wireing on cp 1 and cp2 sensers had one with bad cam senser would not power pump or spark put in outback cam senser and fixed problem i have one here just did tranny on yesterday can check wires and voltages for you if needed

The 2.5 stroker turbo engine is a dissposable race engine just for doing drag race runs its high comp turbo engine its desined to run four 200 ft pasess and tear it down. Here is the beuaty thing about it total cost is set rod berrings main berrings and thats it rest is used free parts cost me 150 $ for 2.5 race engine that i dont have to care about in any way and makes good hp and tourque

funny the pistons only ever break between the ring lands have never seen a broken skirt. I knurll the pistons when i do the head gaskets and somtimes when i rebiuld the engines if pistons where cheap and readaly avalible whould be different story i havent seen any weekness created by knurling have done it to turbo engines with nitrois and they always break between the ring lands nothing i could do to the piston can match that weak link. I have coustomers that have put over 100000kms on knurlled pistons and no slap. and none that burn oil i think that the piston being straiter in the bore prevents theese problems rather than creating problems.

around here a used 2.5/2.2 goes for $1700+ at our local recyler I wish they had the same prices as you guys

timing belt?