ivans imports

not as a repacment as a coating on the gasket no bull i do thiss evry day all i do is rebiuld subaru engines

c pluged oil fillters from time to time and somtimes colapsed ones to put a manual gauge on it and check the numbers no less than ten psi hot at idle or berring time

we call this a harmonica head gasket the gasket vibrates like a reed on an instrament and vibrates till it leaks ive done five or six thiss year all 07 and up i plane the heads and {and always use avionic form a gasket when reinstalling the heads ] we have determind that thiss provides an insulator to prevent gasket vibrating and keeps the coolant from atacking gasket ive done thiss on every headgasket i do over 100 in last two years no combacks do not put headgaskets on dry they will not last have had to redo many shops headgasket jobs. i can c the damage on heads when i plane them a very low spot on lower part of head where the oil return pasage is its the last place to clean up evry time

we use the alt from a 86 caravan was a mitsubishi 100 amp delta alt is very strong and has same conector and simmalar mounts has to be 2.6 mitsubishi caravan have one on my brat use it to jump dead cars

the heater fan relay is located on drivers side of dash above the computer on top left side atached to a braket its the relay with a red and white wire and a green and white wires on it its a bugger to get at i have had to change 3 of them thiss year i take a long flat screw driver and come in from the left edge of dash and pop it off the braket and then you can pull the relay down on harness a bad relay has disscoulord contacts will look like copper instesd of brass

done another one of them 16 bent valves and a blown headgasket piled up timing gears and idler pullys good job dealer 190 kms dealer mantained from new 3rd engine glad i have some quality control

late model 2.2 uses short pistons i c lots that slap its a diferent sound than the rod u do not here the rod bering when its gone because the piston hits the head before the rod berring fails compleatly and that is verry noisey i just knurll the nosiey piston and put it back in problem is gone or replace it i do an oil preshure check first should be better than 15 psi hot at idle if lower berrings are tierd cant be any lower than ten psi

the standard model has a relay biult into the circut its a yellow relay up under dash it somtimes gets dead spots in it and messes up its called the starter clutch relay gets a clutch peadal signal to tell relay to operate i canged a starter 3 times before i found bad relay verry intermitant problem

we put the ea82 carbs on ea81s it works well you have to move the coolant line to top of manifoild to clear distributor and grind a bit off bottom of intake to make it clear the top of engine use the whole manifold it fitts well but tight have to use ea82 top rad hose thiss works well theese carbs are way better have bigger secondarys and better chokes i even put them on ea71s best carb they ever made 85-89 gl [no electicfeedback carbs } as they are controled by ecu and will not work on older cars if it has an o2 probly whont work

before you put them on take the 3 center head bolts and dich them use the head studs from ea81 can only use them on 3 center bolts but they are the problem ones we do this mod on all ea82s it gives you about 1\2 of thread more in block

here in canada we just smoke one and reset it

i have my own planer i just biult a engine that i planed the block surface two mutch and pistons hit heads to fix i take the 98 twin cam head gasket and break it down into its indvidual layers thiss makes verry good head shims have done it many times i put 10 lbs of boost and 75 shot of nitrous on that engine no problems i do find that when i plane a block or head that they ushaly need to be planed alot and i use avionic form agasket on evry head gasket i do over 100 thiss year

i found that there is 3 power supply wires a heavy yellow constant power a small yellow gos to fuse box for ignition power and the ecu power suppy small yellow wire comes out close to ecu we where having a problem with only powering half the circut it looks like theese wires go to same circut but they do not the wire going to fuse box has a oneway diode in it we just whent thrugh this problem i run that harness alot for some reson we have problems puting ej convertions into usa cars they have extra stuff like eletiric seat belts and power windows that like to backfeed the ecu if it dosent start instantly or the tach dosent respond power suply is wrong tach is an indacator of proper ignition function

i get alot that loose one side of dash lights a good whack on top of dash ushaly makes it come back on the bulbs are finiky but its only ever one side or other but rest of interior dash lights work

i have customers that have over a 100000kms on theese engines and still no noise i find that coated pistons just loose the coatings and start slapen this method is cheap and seems to hold up for long time here in BC canada pistons are 300$ each as are parts suplyers realy suck so this is the only cost efetive way to fix problem

heres how it works or [the problem ] the oil pump has a seal on a rotating shaft that drys up and alows air bubbles to get in to lifters and they can not pump up on air so they tick i have never seen a bad lifter before in like a 1000 ea82s but every oil pump seal i c is toast change the seal noise is gone also the oil pump releff valve is in the top of head plunger with a spring this dumps of the oil preshure across the top of cam theese springs get week so i stretch them just a bit to get better oil preshure

i have been knulling the pistons on all the engines i rebiuld to stop piston slap with 100% results the engines run dead silent and smoother i even do it when i rebiuld them it makes them verry tight takes longer to breakin but they last longer and dont slap ever agian think the knock senser likes it silent

check this out i have a machine called a piston knurller puts a xhatch on the skirts of pistons to make them grow i do it as a curtisy when i do head gaskets they come in rattleing and leave silent i even do it when i rebiuld the engines makes them so tight that they are hard to turn the breakin is longer but they run verry well its the only way i was ablle to stop the noise i'm on my 10-12 moter ive done that way no combacks and all running silent still

dont put that stuff in anything reacts to rubber and wrecks your hoses and wp just change the gasket nothing is going to replace the crap coating on gasket make shure you surface heads

the mark on crank gear sets all the pistons at the same hight so there is no chance of interferance when installing belt u must use the marks on belt to set it who cares where tdc is there is no distributor all 3 lines go strait up dont use the arrows as they are for valve ajusting porposes not for timing

i put a h6 3.0 in my race buggy we put turbo on it whent like stink broke one piston and had to replace it was over 160 bolts and tons of crap i made cardboard templates to keep bolts organized the timing marks where strait forward the links that are diferent coluors lined up with the marks on cams when its right it looks right all marks should line up

have good lites tails and hatch have 3 radios dont think this model had a rear wiper at all is a DL model 2wd 4 speed will try and get some pics on here thiss afternoon

looks like pettys avitar same gold coulor