ivans imports

have a compleate 77 wagon if is gen 1

comp test that hole and alt voltage check

gen 1 or gen 2 ?

have found that a tiny peice of anything eg gravel falls down between the release lever and the latch is a tiny little space there stuff falls into and wont let the latch move get in thru the hatch cover just pop the clips on the top side not bottom side then you can see down to latch i whould take a shop vac and vac out any stuff that may be blocking it. and you can manualy open the latch with a screwdriver

i have some 4 i think ea71s and a compleate 77 brat low kms for 1000$

vvt or non ? have seen the spring jump off that holds the vvt cam follower in place and have seen the retaner bolt for rockers fall out take cover off and look should be perty easy to see whats going on. I whould not run it like that also have a set of vvt 07 2.5 heads with 1000kms on them if one of your heads is bad

broke #1#3 rods in half split the block

I did a realy hard reverse run in the buggy and it smoked the back side of pinion teeth not ment to drive hard backwards eats the teeth

Big old hole in my block but did some realy cool sand hill climbs and bowls was fun

First pass good second pass better 3rd pass BOOM !!! peices Thanks Matt for the blast sheild we used it up was very violent and at high rpms not shure what let go but is many holes in block. On the + side no broken axles and trans worked way better was starting from a dead stop in second gear on the first two the 3rd one was just to deep and over loaded the engine when i looked out front of buggy was 2ft of mud it was pushing with front end. Well back to last years engine at least its still runing

My 1rst step is to put in 2wd fuse and drive it at least 50 kms this holds the curcit open and will flush anything that may be jaming it up is not to bad to do in position takes me about a hour to do i also change the clutchpack tail shaft sealing rings. you can air check it on the bench to confim it works

race race race now that my NOS is fixed hang on !

off to qesnell for next race should be a good track fast and good mud now my front diff is fixxed and the awd is tighter should work good geting short on rear axles down to 3 extras anyone got any extra 79-84 gl rear axles i just need the shafts not cvs

if coolant level is low the fan senser dosent work right sounds like a headgasket or water pump seizeing or sticking thermo

Did heads on a 02 legacy 220000kms had burnt a path past the cly and had worn a spot about 3 thow into the head they will run like thiss for long time the owner said it started overheating at 170000kms so lasted a bit but defanatly did damage to head bottom end was ok. I have been telling customers 155000 is the magic number right before its first timing belt i pull engine do full reseal headgaskets and wp and timing belt idlers ect

have a 4 speed 2wd 77 wagon for parts compleate with pedal set cables ect

the heads are the first thing to leak have done six in a row all leaking oil into the plugs and leaking down from the head seam right above the oil fillter and on the back ds rear coner of head none were over 160000kms the head gaskets go before even the alt belt or battery wears out. Anyway worth checking I find is no point doing any work on engine unless your taking it right out to do full reseal or you end up going right back in to tear it down agian

I sold one yesterday used 99 outback 411 5 speed whent for 1000$ installed + fliuds

They put a feul pump controler box inline to make pump shut off if car is hit they were teribble for going bad is up under dash on ds side above your left knee has 6 wires and is about 2 inchs square i jump the feul pump wires togther to test curcit. I think it needs to see tach signal or somthing like that to turn on but they dont like sitting around

change out the berings in your trans think baja is 411 dont quote me on it takes me about 2 hours to rebiuld that trans only tools needed was a press and berring spliter

Of couse they cut it off buggers oh well some good shots of the other cars in my class the skiny white and flames chev is the fastest car in my class followed by the green jeep thing and the one i race the mud shark driven by my freind cody his pitt crew cheif is blind he tunes the car checks the plugs ect all without seeing they dug the shark outof retirement to let the son race after his dad lost his sight. Is a very good crew to compeate with. He came in second at merit I was happy to get beat by him good job cody !

So found a deal on nos parts have enuff jets to mutiport nos inject it now 30 hp per cly is are goal at 45 psi feul press. This should kick it in the butt or blow it up is a pile of plumbing but worth it. The season is a points game we get x amount of points for 4 compleated passes fastest passes ect so we had all four passes so got are points two trucks in class had one unfinished pass so they dont get there points for all compleated passes makes for a close points race at end of season and reliability is very important. Well unless you have a pile of engines on your shop floor.

Matt 87 gl seadan making 5 bolt to 4 bolt addaptors

A bleed line to the map senser / boost senser to bleed of boost to fool the ecu into thinking it has less boost and addjustabble valve think may help fought thiss before damm turbo harness !

front o2