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Everything posted by ivans imports
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Yes rules state recognizabble body and i'm pushing it still. The exhaust is so i dont have to breath exhaust fallout and also pointed in safe direction and give some backpreshure the hood and fenders weigh about 20 lbs the extra calipir will add weight but dubble my holdback power { is very hard to hold back the power at the 3500 stall } and front brakes are danger on thiss buggy. I figured out yesterday that i have one curcit blocked on master and only was useing half of master but the other half was dead heading and fighting me so was not geting full preshure will revise the lines a bitt. Anybody ever seen a deul calipier setup before ?
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that is the plastic end thrust washer that keeps the drum from eating the pump housing should be replaced all you have to do is pull diff pinion then gentaly pull cast pump housing off replace washer and put back together i would not run it thiss way as it will allow the transs internals to move back and forth and will damage it. When its gone it will hesatate into gears and clunk into reverse
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well for us the ferry just sinks with your car on it !
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Headlights Weak, '83 Brat
ivans imports replied to Feanor's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
so i take the signal from light harness to turn on a realy one for 4 highs and one for 4 lows give the realy power feed right off the alt batt termanal this will give you 4 high beams and 4 low beams with clean power from alt giving the headlights power before anything else. On my 84 i have 4 x 100 watts on high and 4x65 watts on low at 14.20 volts at 100 amps and they are realy bright get high beamed everywere i go but i can see- 29 replies
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got my deul calipier setup working last night x4 toyota 4 piston calipiers should be able to hold back now or twist the drive shaft
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the valves are geting to tight when hot addjust valve clearances check exhaust at rear for poping or uneven exhaust pulses aslo ohm out the plug wires and see if have a bad one. Also if headgaskets are leaking coolant into combustion chamber it may hit plugs and make it misfire. I also had a 02 forester that the vac line to feul reg was cracked and was not maken right feul preshure
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all about overall weight i dont want to go over 1400lbs have been shaving weight off for years. Anyway is least of my problems #3 cly lost comp down from 150 -120 looked at plug and top of piston is smashed when it got hot it interfered with top of cly head. is a bummer have to buy pistons again gess that why we turture test it still runs fine but i know its a problem
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well noones broght me a carbed subaru in 2 years so been awhile
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I like to use the 90-94 ej 2.2 with twin cam heads is higher comp ratio but this works good have biult 4 or 5 now way more bottom end reliabilty and stock management no check engine light and close to same power about 10 % less but no piston slap and probly better milage the first one i did has 150000kms on it since runs flawlessly. I have even done the 2.2 51 2.2 with 01 and up single cam heads thiss works good to
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pulled spark plugs - covered in gas?
ivans imports replied to lastchance's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
valve addjustment timing and comp test the injectors if leaking you will see a slow drop on preshure gauge if injector is not holding or lift injector out and watch for drips under preshure also check con on coolant temp senser and look for any air intake leaks -
float bowl vent transducer takes the preshure vapors of the top of float bowl and turns them back to gas and retuns it to intake prvents float bowl over preshure. As far as your vacume leak check antibackfire valve plubing this messes up lots on those years
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broke bolt, then made worse...
ivans imports replied to danrenfroe2016's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
the snapon truk had a carbide drill bit for drilling out broken taps and easy out was very pricey and tech but whould do the job i drill them out to the size of the tap re for the size and retap it easy outs and taps are brittle so you may be able to shater it and pull out the peices and try drilling agian -
because subaru knew there was a problem with the shaft seal and updated it from rubber to viton is the diff between doing it agian after 200000km or 50000kms I a.m very picky about oil pump seals the rest not so important oil pump critical have seen many aftermarket oil pump seals fail or pop out also I glue and stake the shaft seal in this one little seal makes hudge grief and you whould save mabee 10$ on buying aftermarket ones
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torsion bar steel whould be britle i think have seen many broken ones i like the idea. Kinda like runing my rear paddles at 5 psi to wrinkle the sides on launch let the tires give a bitt. Thanks to matts incredabble meshuring / machineing skills i think we are geting somwere. If we run a axle with biger cv can get more height out of rear end mabee even add length to the rear arms make the wheel base longer
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put a feeler in and see what the clearance is the one yesterday was 0.35 on intake brougt it down to 0.20 and exhaust was at 0.10 broght it up to 0.25 meshure with fellers to the largest one that will fitt then you know how mutch to add or - in 0.20 ex 0.25 mm I like them big prevents bunt valves and promotes smoother running
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must come from subaru dealer the shaft seal is the most critical must be brown viton seal get all 3 from dealer cam seals crank seal ect can be aftermarket but oil pump seals dealer only also you can buy the oil pump gears seporate of the pump from subaru i recomend to chage them to