ivans imports

Front 02 senser have been giving me greif on outback after outback i find that it gos out of range and pulls the feul sestem lean but sets no codes. Surging bucking hesatation good one second bad the next fixes breifly after restart funny smelling exhaust anyway changing the front o2 fixed 4out of 5. Also what plugs did you use and was there any oil on plugwires have been having problems with subarus not liking high resistance plugs eg platnuim irdium ect plian jane ngk v power seem to work best if to high of ohms like to spark down the side instead of thru the middle of plug

seen a lot of bad alts this year at least 8 recently all alt problems mostly brushes and regs i doubt that a dead batt light whould cause no charge as the wire harness is spliced were it gos to light the light branches of the signal feed. on non internal reg cars mabee but not on internal reg cars

Its not to bad to pull out ether only has 4 bell bolts and can take the whole exhaust out of way i take the axles right out mounts elictical conectors drive shaft tc and shift cables the last one i pulled took me about 45 min from running to out on ground. Mind you probly my 40th tranny pull in last year have it down to a exact porcedure

I think that a 94 legacy is so outdated in the jdm world parts may be very hard to find never thought of a asuie one whould it have coil on plug seems to be a jdm thing

on mine to i put a turbo legacy oil fillter coller on it to bring down the oil temp when under boost it dosent take long to heat soak 2.8 L of oil

spun berring 2.51 last night on teardown bench add it to the pile

it sounds like a good deal as long as he did a good job on motor it whould cost 4000-5000$ for me to do this rebiuld

brushes are realy cheap and not to hard to change

sorry you only have to change the rear caier the front is the same

i use the turbo legacy trans parts putt the svx diffs on it if ok the last one i did i put a outback high clutch drum and clutch pack into it is a tougher drum and stronger clutch pack and fitts right in. If your svx diff is bad you can change the ratios out for the 3.90 legacy ones but must use the svx carieier with the legacy crown and pinion is not to bad to swapout. The electronics should be exactly the same valve body ect as long as your doner legacy is 92 or newer. Also get a updated awd clutch pack for svx has black steels and stronger clutches. I have done 3 of thoose tranys in the last year a`m geting perty good at it. My favorot is the 4.44 ratio with the high stall from 2wd impreza trans thiss one hauled rump roast and seems to be holding up i bet it whould beat a standard one easy.

One of my machinist buddys made a aluminum addaptors to go loyale to legacy rim convertion looked and worked realy good 14 inch legacy wheels on 89 gl sedan

I love the justys #1 check cold startup time the oil light longer it stays on the more tierd the engine is they had problems with the oil pumps and bottom ends. Every justy i get gets new rods and mains and oil pump gears full reseal and good to go. i do see the odd bad headgasket but is 1 out of 10. Also check rear struts is commen failure and axles were the go to trans over all theese are very capabble cars i have had mine for ten years + and still strong Mine is a 91 fun justy 1.2 turbo absolutly hauls rump roast and crazy good 4x4 have never got it stuck. And push its limits every chance i get

it will not show you a overcharging alt witch is the most commen failure have seen them hit 20 volts muti meter +1 should be 14.20 -14.0 volts no higher and no lower than 13.0 at 3000rpms

i spent 12 hours + on thiss car was a real pain any ideas were i could find 4 coilpacks for a 94 twin turbo 2.0 staged turbo setup looks alot like a svx coilpacks. or has anyone converted there 2.0 over to a single coilpack like a standard subaru engie uses ? i have used a tin can coil with a plugwire to temparaly repair coil on plug cars. But four whould be ugly and no room for them right now has four coils off a ealy jdm 2.0 not right but working for now. Any ideas of help for thiss car ?

No misfire code as car was a 94 but did have a default for misfire abillity whould just shut down or pull boost and timing

Try a v power plug from a 91 legacy 2.2 bkr6e-11 with about 0.55-0.60 mm gap seems to work best i have no faith in platium plugs or irdium plain is best. I would still meshure the ohms of your plugs and see what it is the v power is about 4 ohms. And i dont know even if subaru knew this it may be very overlooked i think the coil on plug cars need low ohm plugs

will not run with intake boot off must be conected have you tryed cranking with feul pump unpluged to clear the flood ? could be just loaded with gas or lifters are pumped up and holding valves open somtimes the first start after enginge work it floods out before the valves pump up

low volts brushes high volts reg jumping volts diodes try gentaly taping alt with hammer while running if volts jump up is brushes

Mabee alt is failing brushes going out is the alt light coming on dimly ?

Hey tex the 2.0 i was having problems with they had broken the coils installing plugs and had used a high resistance autolite platnum plug the autolite plug was 12 ohms and a v power ngk is 4 ohms it made the spark jump down the side insted of down the plug. Made the car very weird and run poorly and shut down. What plugs did you use ? have had very bad luck with platium or irdium plugs being to high of ohms i like the plian jane ngk vpower with a tight gap it instantly fixed thiss car well and 4 coils. Put a ohm meter on you plugs and see what the ohms are.

Found it somone had done the plugs and broke the ends of all four coils and had put in autolite platnum garbage plugs the ohms on the autolite plug 12 ohm s the ngk v power was 4 ohms was way to high of resistance and was jumping the spark down the side even after i changed the coils. Theese plugs were cheesey and poorly made the car was seeing missfire and shuting down ecu witch whould cause it to boost spike and pull timing. Was a pain to track down as the plugs are not so easy to get to. Anyway IF IT DONT SAY NGK THROW IT AWAY

oil pump is easy to reseal but hard to get out of block somtimes have had to losen the front block bolts to get it out change sender first. The stuff in the oil filler is blow by minoir not a problem comes from runing on cold wet days change pcv and pcv fillter might help. Run it with the oil cap off ans see if it pulses smoke out the filler if it do's then mabee a cracked ring land. Then comp test should have a min of 125 psi

Check that they did not chew and boost pipes even a small leak can be a big problem. Take your knock senser and file the base of senser and the block were it mounts have seen many that are not grounding

now you just need to put a block under the gas pedal

Check the throttle hard stop has not been messed with i get this when its trying to find its idle stop on the tps if it gets addjusted it will not see its idle contact and will serach for idle or throttle cable is to tight