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Everything posted by ivans imports
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in the last 2 years have had 6 xx blocks come in with thrown rods engines had been bored and rod berrings were reused or not even looked at. The pistons were not slopy in bore but rod berrings were gone. and all had 7mm oil pumps and factory rod berrings. Have seen better results with the 99 2.5d as it has the bigger rod berrings and is stronger. I looked at my core linup yesterday 6 2.5ds 2 2.51s and 2 2.23s and one 2.2b and 2 ez3.0s should keep me bussy for a while.
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try surfacing the heads i see thiss over and over and over the heads must be surfaced or the meatal gasket will never seal for long do a cly preshure test to see what cly is pushing into the cooling system. I have had to redo at least 8 head jobs thiss year same problem. If you dont surface the heads the coolant follows the path that previus coolant took past the headgasket like a crbon track on a spark plug. If it has a path it will always follow that path
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sound about right for old loyale put in new oem thermostat oil gauge sounds right normal for low op at idle and high when reved tach probly just sticky beat on top of dash a bitt loosen her up
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wow i caled my dealer 2750 $ for a rebiuld short block + 1150$ core and they are thoose horribble xx 25 rebiulds with the 7mm oil pump. Dealer says no new short blocks avalibble in canada only in the usa and are different blocks and dont interchange. So my short block is 2000 $ so i'm happy with my price.But a'm concerned about why is sutch a difference between usa and canada what happened to FREE TRADE lol
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i like my rebiulds all have knurlled pistons 0 slap ever fresh surfaces only subaru oem seals and gaskets and all the stuff that subaru missed is tight and proper no loose oil pump screws or plastic seperator plates or loose pistons. A subaru factory short block dreams about being thiss good with all there wornout engine tooling and loose bolts from the factory a new short block is not a way i would go. I have definatly seen my share of engine defects on subarus engines. At least if i find a problem i can fix it or replace it the robot just lets it go down the line. There is alot to be said for human quality control !
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need info on pressure plates asap!
ivans imports replied to maozebong's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i have the step on the flywheel machined to compensate but sounds like a ea81 pp mixup to me -
Gen 1 Subaru brat hot wheel
ivans imports replied to Pooparu's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
cool i have a 77 brat that coulor came like a bright orange almost red is 11 of 77 is the only brat that coulor ive seen will get the pait code off it -
we had a fair bitt to had the 79 wagon up in 2ft or better she just dosent say no !
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Frankenmotor question. Searched.
ivans imports replied to xbeerd's topic in NA Fuel Injection Engine Tech
i like to look down the exhaust pipes from heads to see how the burn was a light tan exhaust header port is normal any wet or oil or black or white deposits are i sign of oil or coolant burning. On the short block i rock the #2#4 pistons at tdc to check for slap if slopy the rest is probly slopy to -
ea tranny rebuild diy
ivans imports replied to subarurx yo's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have a press setup just for subaru tranys and it gets used alot the trick is to find a very low profile berring spilter had to get a snapon one and grind it down to get it to fitt under the berrings and gears. On average it takes about 1-1/2 tons force to press the shafts apart -
ea tranny rebuild diy
ivans imports replied to subarurx yo's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i have 25 tranys apart if you need a specific part only two awd units for rx and one from xt 6 -
chemical treatment for heater core
ivans imports replied to djellum's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i start with the ps side plugs for heater fan ac temp control ect lower bolt on ps side then top bolt ps and ds side do not remove the center middle bolt. Then drop the ecu and realys unplug the ds conectors only the ones that conect the dash to wire harness. And the vent control then drop columm down undo the vacume heater control main plug. Then the bolt on lower ds dash and the speedo from cluster. Have a assistaint hold the ps side of dash while you pull the last bolt center midle of dash then one person on each side gentaly pull dash away from car. Slowly to check for anything that may have been missed. Once the dash is out two bolts and two lines and the box comes right out. I can do it with my eyes closed is not that hard. The reinstall is exactly opposet. The most important part is nothing comes off the dash is removed in one peice.