ivans imports

so many naked motors love it throw dem dam covers away lol well on the ea82 anway or mabee the ej 22 na all of them mind you the rocks do get in there my buggy runs a cover and still has many rocks and drit packed into belt dam those belts are strong mine had eaten lots of dirt and never jumped yet

front diff is very vilent when it go's and the awd will be kicking in and out and banging

No i have a two peice drivshaft with a hanger berring i whould never use a one peice for that app because it becomes to long and will fight you put in a two peice drive shaft and hanger berring and will fix problem a stock loyale drive shaft is the right length i use a trans xmember bolted to floor to hold hanger berring up works realy good have done many 5 speed swaps into the 80-84 cars and always use the two peice shaft

have a five speed 99 forester and the 03 auto both live up the same hill both set 420 going up that hill it makes no sense they also have a 97 auto but it sets the 420 on evry 3rd or forth trip but on the same hill is a 6 km very steep hill with slow corers on it the other fifty car set light all over the place have not been able to find a cure yet and i cant get the 420 to show up when i test drive takes some miles for it to turn on the one car she drove it 1500 kms after i shut light off before it came back on average is about 500- 1000 kms to turn light on the least ive seen is 100 kms but all over the place and many cars with 420 i dont think thiss problem will fix easy

Man i love my ectv on my 91 justy hold it to the floor all day every day let the bastard slip dosent break fells weird as hell but gos right to redline holds at redline and hauls rump roast 3 engine later and still same ectv they got a bad rap for pump shaft problems and brushpack problems but when they work they work good what scares me is the outback one uses the exact same size of ectv parts as justy and the berring on the load side of drum gets super loaded and will fail on justy they used a 12 ball berring to try and fix thiss with no luck i bett thiss trany will have same problem because the chain pulls sidways on drum

nope dont agree have run rediculous drive shaft angles with no problems my dayly driver has way steeper angles than that and its a 83 wagon with five speed and sti motor has 4 inch lift on back with stock steady berring hight and mount the drive shaft gos up to stedy bering at a realy steep angle then strait into trans from steady berring no vibrations and no problems one pice drive shaft or two ????????

I still go with sezied ujoint in rear shaft or wheel berring

no worrys unless has hard part damage the materail from the clutchs will not hurt tourque converter or pump but if you find any meatal pices stop and get a core

so i rebuilt my toyota 4 piston calipers and moved the peadal ratio and put on a smaller master to help hold it back at stall it only has rear brakes so now i can hold it at the line at 3500 rpm stall is all the brakes can do to hold it back it gets angry the front lifts right up and the back drops almost to the ground jumps out of the hole was getting it to pull the front wheels off the ground on the tests in front of my house see how she do's thiss weekend

yes they are realy efected by elavation everytime they climb the pass or go up in elavation it seems to affect the auto cars more my test 03 turns on the light when they pull the hill on way home is a substantial elavation increse but i still think its lean and just shows up more on hills anyway is still driving me nuts will keep trying

Tip the knock senser grounds to its base file the base of senser to get good contact and file the block where it bolts up to get a good ground have had many set code when is poor ground

the low reverse clutch pack is the very last pack at bottom of the case after you pull the sub asemblys out you do not have to remove the valve body diff must come off and pump houseing evrything else comes out check high drum pack and drum surface and band cange out the clutch packs and good to go i always like to keep the stock unit if at all posibble becuse is matched to car

well that fixed it holy crap cant hold it back anymore runs smotther than ever did vacume came up i also changed the header pipe for a stock one to try and trap more heat seems to work way better and geting way more heat out of the pipe tore the rear axle apart testing it up my street shearded the shaft clean off then the oppeset tire turns to smoke and sideways she gos good sign its maken power off to the races subaru 2.5 v.s 517 dart or 440 dodge or 383 stroker or the 454 all on nos well if your going to play with the big boys better bring a subaru

not many people around with exhaust gas anilizers anymore i dont have one but i know the smell of lean and they all got it or nox if you perfer if you follow one of theese cars up a hill with drivers foot to the floor no cat smell not rotten eggs and if it was anythig else whould stink like catts not enuff feul way to lean burning subaru droped the ball one feuling there engines trying to make milage standards I still think its callibrated way to lean and the o2 hitts a wall trying to get the feul trim ritch enuff and setts a code for what it thinks is wrong I think a catt is like a engine needs feul to work

headlight realys

no they get a ( humping ) the vibrations cycle with a rythem almost like a surge and whould be worse the hoter they get they only get thiss on inside cv the outer will just click and tear itself apart but the iner will vibrtae but only if dry i doubt that its a cv have seen som realy bad ones drive fine till they broke keep looking

on my race buggy the driveshaft has a space of 3/4 to 13/16 from the tail to the drivshaft is way to short have been waiting for it to wipe a spline but 6 years of racing no failure yet thiss whould not cause a vibration out of alinment or bad ujoint bent tire ballance did you use a two pice drive shaft or one peice ? is your tail shaft inline with diff ? and so on

sorry one more thing i put TBI on my 81 brat with ea81 works realy realy good and 10 years no problems

first change the rear fillter then remove the front water seperator and add a second fillter there take the lines and hook them up strait trough there is a tiny red rubber valve in the return line from the water seperator that cocks up and thiss seystem was bad for messing up and check the fillter one the carb float valve seat was bad for pluging next check the intank fillter by blowing air carfully in to tank through the feul outlet line they had a screen fillter on tank pu that gets pluged so 1 2 3 4 fillters to check and make shure has a heat riser or will freeze up on wet days

crazy the uper ring land lifted up and was contacting the cly head made a sound like a rod but not a rod so two dead forged wiscos and some dents in the head so two wiscos on 2@4 and two stock sti pistons on 1@3 balance no way tough oh ya will no mercy run it agian thiss weekend at least it will have all 4 agian

bumper tip i use a 4ft long extention and come from the far side with a 14 swivel socket

all over the feul syestems new fillters and iv'e done the pump on almost evry subie around here it seems to easy for it to be somthing simple i used the lucas feul treatment because it also has a lubracant that whould help a sticking injector havent seen the test pilot since fingers crossed I had a thought about moving the rear cat and o2 forward to get them hotter but i still think its a lean problem or posibly a carbon on the intake valve problem the carbon is working like a sponge and soaking up the gas making it run lean still driving me nuts

change the oring on back side of cam seal addapter and plug on ps back cam i find theese o rings leak alot

ground where coil bolts up or regulator on alt pushing to high of volts should be no more than 14.5 volts at 3500 rpm nothing turned on

i may still have a tank but geting rare