Leebo

i got the lock ring out. it would have been nice to have noticed the melted race before i spent 45 minutes fighting it. so you think i should still at least try to tap it out. im in virginia right now trying to get this thing ready to head back to montana. not many of these lying around scrap yards here. i did find a brand new trailing arm from subaruparts.com for $130 plus a $30 bushing. add on a new wheel bearing to that, plus the other side.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w6w3q0egwy0vuc4/photo.JPG

here's a pic

got this thing apart all except the race. I was gonna start to try to tap it out but noticed the top part of the race has basically welded itself to the bearing housing in the trailing arm. musta got pretty hot I guess haha. am I screwed here? meaning do I need to try to track down a rear trailing arm at a scrap yard. I don't see this thing coming out.

new timing belt installed and idlers, with new water pump and thermostat. also all new radiator hoses, and drive belts. flushed the cooling system, and changed the rear diff gear oil (which was actually pretty scary how old it looked.) i actually did this work at the guys house who i just bought this car from 2 months ago. he was refinishing his motorcycle windshield and decided to do my headlights while he was at it. they now look brand new!! so this dude sold me the car for super cheap, let me use his garage and tools, and refinished my headlights! not only do i now have a sweet reliable ride, but also a new friend. the point of this story is Subarus Have Good Karma!

today is the day the new belt goes in. got torque wrenches, a chain wrench and a pry bar. and we will see how this goes. HorseLover's write up is awesome! so helpful. hoping things go at least some what smoothly. having a friend help me so at least i wont be alone in battle. thanks for the help. ill update on how things went. oh and by the way, even the mechanic in the garage i tend to take headaches to told me to bump the motor to break the crank bolt. seems like every ones doing it! haha

thanks gloyale. i actually did this before i installed it seems like it will make a huge difference. still gotta do the other side, i will before i get it off the stands. and i brought my spare to the shop so the guy could bolt the hubs on while welding them in, though he didnt think it was needed. i asked him to any ways, but who knows if he will haha.

i got this bitch! hammer method has worked, but not this time. MilesFox had some good advice packing grease at the bottom of the spacer to give it something to float on. once i got it center and could get the nut on i used my oversized washers and started tightening the castle nut to pull it through. ended up using a giant pair of vice grips to grab the axle shaft so i could get a better hold on the back side. finally got it in enough to get it on the DOJ (my control arm was still disconnected so i could swing it out an inch or two) then pulled the rest of the way through by tightening the castle nut some more. gonna put a new tie rod end on tomorrow, and have some of the studs (one was spinning when i took the wheel off and a few are on their way im sure) in my outer hub (drilled to 6 lug pattern) tack welded and this job will be done. leebo

tomorrow is a new day. i will start fresh with cold beer. im just glad to know im not the only one who has experienced such trouble. i will win this battle!

i thought i was being generous enough with the grease but maybe i just need to really load it up. ive used the hammer method in the past, i guess i thought the pry bars would do the same thing. ill try that tomorrow. no dental floss. thanks for the responses. just annoyed. at least this is no longer my daily driver. just bought a 95 legacy wagon my GL-10 is now my "pleasure vehicle". such a pleasure haha.

sorry to be clear this was a replacement shaft under warranty for one I had bought last april, and part numbers matched

So I got a replacement CV Shaft from NAPA to go into my 87 GL-10 with d/r 5 speed out of a non turbo GL. I made sure it was the same part number and everything (I dont really trust them so i counted to splines at the counter though this annoyed the guy behind the counter) So I get home expecting a nice easy install like I have had in the past, no luck. Struggled for two hours trying to slip the spindle into the hub assembly. I removed the outer hub and the rotor to make sure everything was lining up nice from the start, and noticed that there is spacer in the hub assembly that its pretty loose in there and it seems to be blocking the spindle when i try to slide it down. This thing has a 2" BOSS lift so axle install has never been quite like stock but I can't remember this spacer ever being an issue before. I was thinking of using a piece of dental floss to hold the spacer dead cent while tring to slide the spindle in and then sliding the floss out. (gonna try this tomorrow). Let me know if there are any other tricks, or is this spindle just a wee bit too large (defective?). Also I disconnected the upper control arm bolt (more so I could remove in inner part from DOJ) and also the outer sway bar bolt. thanks, Leebo

ah this makes me feel better. ill do the white out test and check to make sure the pulley bolt isnt loose. thanks lee

kinda freaked my self out reading all these posts about wobbly crank shafts. almost like reading webMD for a head ache and thinking you have a brain tumor type of thing. hoping its just a worn out pulley or woodruff key and not a jacked up crank shaft. i dont plan on running it much this way either way. gonna order that timing belt kit and a new crank shaft pulley at the same time just to be safe.

well i bought this thing and im so excited! got it for a pretty good deal i think and the guy i bought it from actually has a nice garage with all the tools i need. says he'll give me a hand doing the timing belt job. the cam seal on the driver side looks pretty grimy so ill probably end up doing both of those. it doesnt seem to be leaking at the seperator plate so why bother im thinking. just wanna drive this thing so i can put some time into my EA82. that EJ will be fun to drive after driving my EA82 every day for the past two years! thing feels like a gaddamn race car! i did notice a little wobble in the crank pully though which i plan on investigating right way. just makes a little chirp when the ac compressor is on. should i just try to tighten it down or should i remove it and inspect the woodruff key or can this wait until i change the timing belt.

dont really have the tools to take the whole motor out, ive seen a video where just the radiator fans were taken out and he was able to replace the timing belt and i imagine the water pump too. i have also seen where the valve cover gaskets were replaces fairly easily with the motor still in the car. im gonna inspect the timing belt and make sure its not about to blow out. can the baffle plate seal be done with the engine still in the car?

no i meant the crank shaft. saw another vid where guy put it in 3rd gear, had some one hold the break down with the clutch out as he broke it.

i think what i meant was the cam shaft pully

ya i saw there was a full you tube video on how to do it. the only thing that sketched me out was the way the guy broke the nut on the crank shaft pully by putting a breaker bar on the socket and wedging it agains the body of the car, then turning it over real fast to break the bolt. is there another way to break this bolt? thanks lee

so i know this thing is one of the non-interupting ejs. its got about 170k on the odo. the current owner doesnt know if the timing belt was serviced at the 100k mark, so i will probably have this done. does any one out there have any idea how much this might run me to have done at my local mechanic. or at least a reasonable asking price for timing belt replacment in one of these gems. thanks Lee

scored the glass from a junk yard. had to give it some love since one of the casters was rusted pretty bad. im just happy it goes up and down. thanks for the help and offers. leebo

So I came home from a surf last week and found my front passenger door glass had been busted out on my 86 Gl-10 by my landlord while she was mowing the grass (or the gravel drive way mind you.... radical) Can't find a replacement window any where local. Im in Virginia Beach, VA. If any one has access to this piece of glass please pm me or email me at ldickerson22@hotmail.com. I am obviously willing to pay shipping. I just want to drive my car with out looking a the weather channel. Thanks, Leebo

If i had a 2nd generation parts id hook you up Dan. Hope I dont need any parts on the trip. haha

Finally got the d/r into my 87 gl-10. Figured I might as well lift it while i had it all on jack stands. Trecking 2300 miles from Bozeman, MT back to virginia beach next weekend. http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p505/leeboshreds/IMG_5116.jpg

its a BOSS 2 inch so yeah its one solid block. i had to take the strut out, but got them in. should get it rollin today! thanks for the help