Brat78

I just put a new motor in our 94 legacy wagon, and it came up with CEL code 35, purge valve. I changed it out, ran this procedure to clear the code: I ended up running it down the road, and the CEL began to flash. I assumed it was the all clear signal. Well, now it won't stop flashing. I ran the stored and current code procedures, and all seems good. However, the CEL is still flashing constantly. Any suggestions? I currently have the battery disconnected to see if that will remedy the problem. My hope is that someone has encountered this issue.

That one that you put on the 20 ton press is it. Thanks for the info! Do you remember where you got them?

It's great when they get on the road. I spent about a year chasing parts and then about 6 months sorting out quirks. It's now my only car.

Tonight my rear end dropped out of the brat. Both bushings in the rear end hanger bar failed and the whole assembly just dropped, leaving the nuts and washers still on the studs. I have it rigged for now with some iron plates at the bottom so the rear end can't fall off again. Is there a source for those bushings?

My 94 legacy will occasionally stick up about and over 2k for the idle. I'm familiar with the common culprits, but I just changed out the entire engine assembly and am still having this issue. The only parts I used from the old motor were the alternator and the ps pump. Any ideas?

Thanks everyone for the advice. It actually came out surprisingly easy. I have another almost ready to go in, and the other one will go into my 78 brat when I service the heads.

About to pull the motor out of our 94 legacy. I have the four bolts at the bell housing off, exhaust disconnected, and center motor mount nuts off(2). Will it pull out at this point? My concern is the motor mount studs. Do I need to free up the crossmember as well or pull it as is? Thanks in advance!

I wish I had known you were up in keene. I had to junk my 81 wagon not too long ago. It was in Bennington, over near Peterborough. I would have given it too you. Anyway, the brat looks great. I would love to check it out next fall when we go back home to visit.

I'd ebay that stock gem and get a different one to modify. That one looks really straight. I just wouldn't do any unreversable modifications to it.

Sweet! Any more videos? I have some of my brat on youtube. User name is ldeliguoriII

Rockauto shows the water pump 96017(Bosch unit). I believe I used 1/4 inch ID fuel line on my brat.

Wow. I don't recall that body style even going that far into the 80's. It looks like a pretty nice car. I'd snatch it up if a hatch is what you want.

I wouldn't touch an automatic.

My brat is pretty dry. Junkyard motor, which sat on the shelf for about 25 years. I am running valvoline maxlife in it right now, which allegedly helps older seals do their job.

I threw a 1600 at my brat and didn't look back. It sounds like you need a running car. A conversion would take much more time and money. My other car for 10 years was also a 71 bus. I got a deal on a stunning 72 and decided to pass the 71 on. With 10 VW years on your resume, I would recommend finding a junkyard motor for the wagon for now and just put it in. My EA71 is so light that my wife helped me with the removal and install. You should have no trouble.

I'd gamble on a set of brushes.

My brat is really noisy. I can't tell if it's the throw out bearing, worn sycros, wheel bearings, axles or whatever. But it's always been that way and never gets worse. It's a 35 year old Japanese tin can.

I was going to rebuild my EA71 but one head was bad and sourcing a good one proved impossible. A lot of people had them lying around but I had no guarantee that I wouldn't end up with another bad head. I considered swaps but in the end for practicallity went with a junk yard shelf EA71 complete for $500 with a 90 day warranty. That was going to be cheaper than my rebuild in parts alone. Add labor into that and I am really far ahead. And now I have a reliable driver. Down the road I'll probably go EJ, but that'll be another time.

Roger that. Thank you

Is that the same coolant temp sensor that the gauge cluster uses?

My EJ had the same problem. I got a new key, put some JB weld around it, and torqued it all back down. I got the key from the dealer. 2 pack(?) for $5. I don't know why they come in 2's. I guess in another 300,000 miles I'll have a spare.

That looks as awesome as busting a stud flush with the case.

We have a 94 legacy 2.2 with an idling issue. Cold start- On a first start up in the morning it will idle up fine and progressively drop idle as the vehicle warms up. Kosher. Warm start- If I take it to the store or where ever, on the second or subsequent start up, the idle will jump up to 1800-2000 rpms, and will stay there. If you drive the car a bit and come to a stop, if given 20 seconds or so the idle will slowly come back down to normal. It will usually stay down at that point, but not always. Sometimes if given some gas it will get stuck back up there again. If another restart is involved in the trip, it will most likely happen again. I have been unable to find a similar problem described online. Any help is appreciated. Cheers

WTF:eek:

The problem I ran into with mine was sourcing the passenger side head when it was deemed unusable by the head shop. For me it turned out to be less expensive to get a junkyard shelf motor for $500 than rebuild mine if you include labor time. Way less hours to install. Unless, of course, you just want to rebuild it. My camshaft was chewed up also. And the cam gear is NLA. I figured I'd be better off with more parts around. I think next time around it'll be EJ time anyway. Same with the VW camper.