O.C.D.

Nice Prodrive's!!! I am wanting one of these Legos badly lately. Nice ride.

Can I has? Love those little hatches. Nice find for the price!! Those brakes will make a great boat anchor.

Forgot to add.... Charcoal canister is completely gone now and most of the crappy emissions. But I am stuck on some figuring out of things. 1. The vacuum port for the brake booster still connects the same way. I got that. 2. The vacuum advance for the distributor has two hoses, which one do I connect to the Weber? 3. The clutch return spring connects to the fork and what? I can't seem to recall. 4. With the clutch cable installed I have no clutch throw so I am thinking the cable came off the pedal assembly? Any pointers on this? 5. Will not having the emissions crap plugged into the harness cause it to throw lights? Many more questions but I thought of these first. Thanks. Jon

Cleaned up the exhaust more and scrapped the flanges free of red gasket sealer. New gaskets fit odd but they cover the hole and mating surface so oh well. Started the Weber swap as well. Lots of work to get this the way I want it. Had to port the intake manifold for the adapter as it was off as mentioned above. Like the slips of the Dremel. Love that and need to fix that now. Adapter has been ported heavily. Intake side. Carb side as mentioned above was really bad for the transition. Lots of Dremel love here and in the end it is much better. So from this to this.

Well, the engine and trany are back in!!! Rented a hoist last Friday to throw it all back in but we quickly learned that the trans cross-member was in the way. And since I buggered up two of those bolts it was not coming off. SO we took it apart and did each part separately. Waste of $30 but not really considering it went in easier. Here are the cleaned up mounts and engine cross member. And a shot of us trying with the transmission mounted. Two days later (took a day off) and lots of work I have almost everything hooked up. The main harness loom was coming off so I thought it would be a good time to re-loom it with split loom. I love doing this as I have done it on almost everything I work on.. Just cleans it all up. One of my biggest goals was to flush/clean/paint the radiator. So I did, lol. Cleaning was fairly easy. Some hose love and air compressor. VHT case paint for the color. New Beck Arnley radiator switch.

Well with your resources I am sure you should fare well.

Getting the hoist in a couple hours. The Squirrel will have a clean bill of health as far as the drive-line goes. I don't know why I am so excited to throw it back in. Oh wait,.........it is because I have been working on it for three months, lol.

Well hell yes I am glad YOU got it. Stanley will love the company and so will the west coast subie people. Nice score.

I know it is a common swap so it is not that hard. I just need some direction with all the Hitachi emissions crap. Anyone?

Looks better with white wagon wheels IMO. That hood, although nicely done, is better suited to an AE86 Trueno or some 80's Toyota. I always thought the Land of the Rising Sun stuff never belonged on Subies. But it is your ride so no complaints. How did you lower the front? Cut coils or use 2wd struts?

Yes, I have searched exhaustively..... I still feel like I am in the dark. I got my Weber DGEV 32/36 yesterday and want to rip the Hitachi off but I am unsure what goes where and what gets capped off, etc... Reading through countless posts I see different routing techniques and setups. So I need some help from you all. On an EA71 what do I take off the intake manifold and cap? What do I do for the PCV routing? What remains for the charcoal canister setup? I am pleased that the Weber literally has 2 hook ups but the rest has me puzzled and I am sad to say that, lol. Any help please and thanks. Jon

FWIW part number 5 is called the Stopper (plug) - 625002091

I also got the transmission cross member installed last night. The new bushings were a pain to get installed. And I guess I was due for some screw ups. The threads on one of the cross member bolts got cross-threaded and I could not get it to seat properly. My only option was to go for it and I did. That paricular bolt will never be coming out. On the other side the captive nut let go after I almost got the bolt all of the way in. So that will never come off either (unless cut off and a new nut welded inside the unibody some how). So for all I have done, these (so far) have been my only screw ups. On a side note I ordered new sway bar bushings from Rock Auto. They typically have them but when I go to order they say sorry. But the order went through and we shall see. New fan switch as well. 1980 SUBARU BRAT 1.6L H4 ACDELCO 45G0542 Stabilizer Bar Bushing BECK/ARNLEY 2011381 Radiator Fan Switch RAYBESTOS 5501042 Stabilizer Bar Bushing

Some things I see and have researched as needing to be fixed: The Hitachi side (intake manifold) gasket is not cut right and will require modification. This portion of the adapter will be Dremeled as well to be more linear in transition to the manifold. The carb to adapter gasket looks good. But the adapter on the carb has a shoulder that will definitely affect flow. This is on the 36 side. 32 side is no problem. So I will Dremel this as well to get better flow.

Got a nice little surprise in the mail yesterday. Cannot wait to put this on. And since I love pictures I thought I would show everyone what a completely brand new Weber DGEV 32/36 Carb and adapter plate look like.

I'd say not as they typically don't with other vehicles. Here is the part list from the catalog. Are you referring to the caliper bolts I have arrowed? There are 4 of course. If so, I cannot find a part number, weird?!

True and to be honest, now that the WRX seats are in mine, I only have room for tweeters, lol. I cannot imagine this deck having aux inputs, lol. I will look though. No sub for this Sube.

Hmm, hadn't thought of the non-cd life we all live now. I guess I don't need that either come to think about it. But I do need the measly amp that is in the newer units to get somewhat good sound out of the speakers. Do you know if the aux mod would work on a 1980 Clarion?

Right on! WCSS seems like a killer time.

How ya doing the stereo? I was able to source an original Clarion AM radio and clock for my dash so I was thinking of just running a stereo in the glovebox and then wiring the entire car from scratch with some speakers in the rear behind the seats. What are you planning?

Then you will be ready for Fast and Furious 7!!!

Thanks Reza. It has been so hard finding time but I really am trying. I want this thing running like a top and in primer/paint before the end of summer. Looks like I should make goal for sale.

Forgot to add I have a Weber and adapter plate coming this week. I was missing too many parts on the Hitachi and I think it sucks anyway, lol. So the carb is outta there once the engine and tranny go back in. Should be firing it up soon!

Bummer about the studs! Nothing like a fun little snag when you are all amped. With that setup and cams what are ya thinking for output? 220ish?

One of my gripes has been with the remnants of the rubber suspension components. I can not find anything from SOA for the sway bars and those are completely rotted out. But I was able to get the leading rod bushings. Figured I might as well do that while the transmission is out. The lighter colored stuff in the picture is the old bushing. Here be the new ones. Turned out I needed to drop the trans cross-member as the rods would not move cause they are welded to the control arms, duh. Benefit is I needed to clean it anyway. Here you can see the nut off and the one bushing out. Hmmmm.... Guess they were bad? This is the best one too. Probably about ten pounds of oil soaked dirt on the cross member!!! All cleaned up.