Daskuppler

Hello Everyone, I'm looking to install some Diode Dynamic SS3 Pro lights on a 2014 Forester Premium. My understanding is that the car is prewired for the lights, but some additional equipment is required. All of the other threads I've found have links to directions and parts kits but the links are all broken. The Diode Dynamic pods come with an adapter for the harness, Do I need a relay for this circuit, or is it already installed? Is there a factory switch, or do I need one as well? can I modify the corner inserts where the lights go, or do I need to purchase the XT inserts? I already have a light bar and would like to limit the amount of switches on the dash. Can I install the 2014 Forester XT column switch for fog light control, or do I need to add the auxiliary switch next to the traction control switch? Thanks!

I read a few reviews of people stating they were somewhat unstable at speeds over 80mph.This makes sense given the lack of a center rib, but it's hard to say how accurate it is. I was previously running the Continental True Contact Tour AS. It was my 3rd set. Michelin is certainly well known for making a quality tire. They seem to be geared towards relaxed drivers with safety in mind first. I saw a lot of reviews stating the CC2 understeers a lot, which I;m not a huge fan of. The car is already way too biased to understeer. Road tests also show problems with the tire changing direction in emergency maneuvers. The first turn is fine, but the second is very slow to respond. I ended up going with the Continental CrossContact LX25. The snow traction is a little less, but the Continental Warranty Department said they have only one complaint on the tire and that it should hold up relatively well on gravel roads. The LX25 is an improvement over the TrueContact with a new rendition of the tread compound, and added features to enhance snow traction. It also outperformed the original Cross Climate in snow traction so I'm happy with that as an all season. We'll see how things go. With my mileage warranty and some sweet talking with the manager, I was out the door for just under $700. Michelin was hesitant to say the CC2 could be used on gravel roads, but said it should do okay with light and infrequent use. If you're not familiar with the Continental, here is a link for reference: https://continentaltire.com/tires/crosscontact-lx25

Someone recommended the Cooper Enduramax on another site. Looks to be a good alternative. Tough casing, designed for gravel roads and light offroading with an all season tread and 60,000 mile warranty. Anyone have any firsthand accounts in the snow?

Hello Everyone, I have a 2014 Forester and have been happy with my tire choice lately, but I only got 26,000 miles out of the current set of Continental True Contacts. The tire shop recommended an all weather tire, specifically the Michellin Climate Cross 2. They said they see on average 60,000 miles out of a set which is fine. My concern is the softer tread compound not handling dirt roads and/or light offroading very well. I swear I read somewhere that they chunk easily on anything but pavement. Anyone have any experience with these or other tires in the same class?

Battery, starter, and alternator were tested and all were fine except reserve capacity in the battery. CCA and voltage were fine. Car had been sitting about a week and driven for about 20 minutes prior to the test.

Grounds in the engine bay were good, battery terminals tight, and alternator tested good.

I'll check it the CS wiring, it was likely unplugged when I did the head gaskets a while ago, maybe it didn't get quite plugged in. The battery is good, it's a red top Optima and only a few years old. I'll check the grounds, hopefully it's something that simple. I've not had an issue since, not even the radio which was pretty consistent beforehand.

Ia had a similar issue on our Xterra, it no "fancy" things on this one haha

It was slower than that, you could count them (but barely). No Security alarm, it's the TS so it has almost nothing

Alternator is old, but I e never had any battery issues. I'll test it though

Hello Everyone! The problem child is a 2002 Impreza TS with 145k on it. Over the last week or so, my radio has been acting weird, I assumed it was failing since it's 10+ years old. The volume would randomly dip to 0, then back to 10, turn off, restart, sometimes even staying off, etc Today, while on a drive through the mountains and coasting down a hill at about 70mph, the check engine light comes on, radio starts acting up, then the ABS light comes on and the tachometer goes to 0...all other gauges were working including power steering and brakes. Hitting the accelerator did nothing. I pushed in the clutch, gave it some gas, and RPMs went up, then fell to 0 again. During this time, the CEL was flashing (though not like the severe misfire flashing). Flashing and the radio volume were in sync with clicking relays on the passenger side (sounded like it was in the kick panel, but I'm not certain). ABS light goes off about 2 miles later, radio returns to normal operation and the car drives fine for another 70 miles. Next long descent and all symptoms return. I took the next exit, restarted the car and it never happened again (another 200 miles until I got home). I later noticed that the clock on the dash had reset like it lost power (the time would indicate that it happened during the first instance. CEL turned off on the way home. When I got home, I had two codes: P0335 (stored) crank shaft position sensor A circuit ABS 22: FR wheel speed sensor. I went to scan again and the ABS module won't scan, and my code reader keeps disconnecting after displaying the p0355. No work has been done in the last 4,000 miles and the car drove fine after the restart. Thoughts?

Thanks for the information! I would assume I can pull the headliner and get to the roof ones, but you never know. If i can just sand the rust out and it doesn't create a hole, doI need to do much else besides prime and paint? Where's the best place to source paint?

Hello Everyone! My question is not in regard to a Subaru, but I'm having trouble finding quality feedback from other groups and I trust the members here so I'm hoping someone has some insight. I have a 2006 Nissan Xterra and the paint is just crap. I recently noticed little spots of rust popping up through the paint, even where there is no damage. Is there anyway to mitigate this without cutting it out, welding in a new piece of metal, and repainting? I'm not really interested in letting the vehicle fall apart or getting rid of it, but I can't justify a 6-10k bill to have a body shop fix it. I'm handy with tools, have a professional grade HVLP gun/system, angle grinders, die grinders, etc..but welding is not.my strong suit, especially on gauged metal. Any help is greatly appreciated! All of my of my pictures are too large to upload, but I'll work on getting them downsized.

Thanks for the info! I never thought about using fire caulking on an exhaust system... I've put many tubes of that stuff in buildings... Man do I hate it haha. But I bake a $15 fix! Did you just cook the hole, or put some wire mesh over it than the caulking?

I do get a p0420 code periodically, it's usually on a coatsting deceleration. I replaced it s little while ago, but I'll check it. I'm definitely not a fan of the droning. Maybe I can get a back portion from the local Subaru recycler

I'm in Colorado so things rust, it not like other parts of the country. Everything else seems pretty solid, but you never really now.

Hello Everyone, I have a 2002 Impreza TS and found a large, nickel sized, hole right behind the resonator. Has anyone had any good success with cat back system replacements, or should I just take it to a shop to get the pipe replaced. If I delete the resonator will it become obnoxious? I'm not looking for high performance or super loud modifications. Louder than factory is fine, but nothing crazy

I'm not sure that I'm going to tackle it, I was under the impression coolant was still running through the head gasket. Since it's not, seems like the worse case here is a little oil seepage. If I touch it, it could get a lot worse!

Hello Everyone, Is anyone aware of a write up for this job? I had a block replaced 35k ago and the head gaskets are leaking and SOA is refusing to cover them. Quotes from a shop range from $2800 to $5700. Has anyone done it? I've heard it is a PITA and the entire engine has to be removed from the car, but there's not a whole lot of information available.

The oil consumption has actually gotten worse. The first change needed a quart at 6000ish miles. the difference could be a change in driving conditions, we had a lot more mountain miles and higher RPMs on this oil change.

Hello Everyone, The saga continues...What did you honestly expect 🤣 2014 Forester 145k, engine block was replaced approximately 30k ago. Recently, when the car shuts down there is a slight sweet smell (assuming it is coolant) and after running on the highway and stopping at a light, it smells faintly of burning oil. There are no puddles or drips on the ground. Coolant level is normal (just above the full mark when cold, heater works fine, no overheating, etc. While looking for signs of leakage, I did notice what appears to be seeping oil at the top front of the block along the driver side head gasket. I also noticed that the head gasket is not a MLS, but a cheap single layer. When I look up the vehicle on Subaru Parts Deals, it shows a MLS gasket, is either acceptable (this was done by the dealership)? Are these motors known for failing crossover tube gaskets like the EJ motors? Seems like all of these gaskets and seals would have been replaced during the short block replacement. Other symptoms: car is burning about 1 quart of oil in 5k miles (0W-20 Castrol Edge) and had issues starting/running a little while ago. When started, it would start then die. It did this twice. The third time I hit the throttle a little and it was fine. Most recent work is a bulkhead wiring harness replacement. No codes. Would bad head gaskets even be covered under the engine block warranty? The block has a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty, but generally labor and other parts are only a year. I don't wan to get into it with Subaru AGAIN without knowing what I'm dealing with and going in prepared. I really don't want to have to do head gaskets in my garage on an FB motor.

So far.. almost 1000 miles on it and it's issue free.

Job finished up well today. Must have had some oil and coolant issues with the replacement gasket for the short while it ran (the car smoked from the tailpipe for about 45 minutes at idle when it started up. I also had a hell of a time getting coolant to circulate, the lower radiator hose stayed ice cold for a long time, pesky air bubbles! Glad it's back on the road again! Thank you everyone for your help and knowledge!

If only there was something decent around to buy. Used Subarus are worth a small fortune around here... With 300k on them. Once I'm done with the head gaskets on my 02 tomorrow, it will start to take the brunt of the mileage

hahaha! so far so good on this round. We've got 300 miles on it since it was there last and it doesn't need to go back yet lol