Daskuppler

Are you referring to the two pipes/hoses that end up going through the firewall to what I assume is the heater core? There some some buildup on the front of the block but I think it's from the oil filler tube and is pretty oily. Would it be best to check when it's hot and see if there is any steam or localized odor under pressure? The smell of coolant is strongest at the top of the block and towards the front. The heat has not gone out since and there have been several heat cycles. I did notice some debris on the radiator fill port so I wiped that off in case it was preventing the radiator cap (new from Subaru) from completely sealing. When the radiator was out for the water pump and timing repair it looked sound (it's only got 15k or so on it), I did not see any green residue buildup or obvious signs of leaks. I replaced the lower radiator hose, the top was in good shape. Coolant levels were spot on the full line in the overflow and the radiator did not take more than a couple of ounces before it was overflowing. I do not, but I can get one if that seems like the best rout to go.

Nothing there either. The smell is only outside of the vehicle.

Heater went out again this evening. Ran for about 5 minutes got to operating temperature and the vent she went from cold to hot instantly. Never went out again during the drive. I had a smell of coolant in the garage a couple days ago but there were no visible leaks and no coolant on the floor. The heater worked fine every time until this evening when I picked the car up from the tire shop.

Whatever the auto parts store has, cut to length, and crimp new ends or see what Subaru offers.

It's likely the positive cable at the starter end.

Probably the valve cover gaskets. Very easy fix.

I agree, they are far from military spec, but they work well and are beefy compared to the standard stuff. I run them on my Xterra and have an amp, light bar, and winch hooked up to one terminal. It's all clean and there are never power issues.

My first thought would be a bad cable running to the starter or ground if the battery meters fine but doesn't crank could be luck that it started other times. I would replace the positive cable running to the starter and the negative running to the alternator. If there's any corrosion anywhere, I would replace the terminals as well. Something like this is nearly indestructible but may be hard to use on the positive terminal depending on your setup: https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Military-Battery-Terminal-Vehicles/dp/B07JJKVHD1 Maybe a bad relay?

Hello Everyone, I have a 2002 Impreza TS currently riding on 3 bent steel 15x6 5-100 wheels. The tires are almost new, less than 10k on them so I don't really want to go to a 16" wheel and get rid of the $800 in rubber. The wheels were apparently bent at time of install, but the shop won't cover new rubber only the labor to remount and balance. I have been working with Discount Tire and been through 7 or 8 different wheels all of which are either unavailable, on back order, they only have 3 of them, or one of the 4 is miraculously damaged prior to shipping. I have checked Tire Rack as well and they really only offer one or two different wheels which I don't like and/or don't want to pay the hefty price tag for. I live in a state with many potholes and snow/ice so I don't want the cheapest wheel around but, but I certainly don't need a rally spec wheel. Or should I just stick with replacement steel wheels? Does anyone have any recommendations on where to purchase a decent set of wheels online?

I'll run with that, thanks!

I run 5w30 AMSOIL and PurolatorOne filters in all of my cars. I've never had a problem. You can't really go wrong with the oil as long as it's a name brand. I have heard Castrol Edge (black bottle) does better for high mileage cars than Mobil but again, change at the appropriate interval and you're probably fine. I would not add and Lucas products. My 02 Impreza 2.5 has 137k '14 Forester runs 0w-20 but has 118k 87 Nissan d21 has 190k 06 Xterra is 100k

Awesome, thanks! I got it all put back together with a little red thread locker on the one heli-coil I just could not get to torque down all of the way. Everything torqued down fine. I did notice on startup, there was a pretty loud and high pitched whine from the front of the engine. It dissipated with time and fluctuated with RPM. I ended up replacing all of the timing pulleys, tensioner, and belt, could the whine be related to any of the new parts? I torqued all the new timing parts down to 29 ft-lbs

Great information, hopefully the HG holds on for a while.... What do you use to repair threads? do you think a little bit of thread locker on the one loose heli-coil will tighten that up enough to torque it down or do I need to remove the whole thing, get a new water pump gasket, insert a new heli-coil (this would be the third one in the hole), and go from there?

I used Felpro triple layered gaskets. It was about 65k ago, I've learned a lot since then and buy very few things from auto parts stores anymore. The new gasket on the water pump is metal but I'm still struggling to get one of the bolts to torque down completely. The heli-coil starts to spin at about 6 ft-lbs. I was thinking a little bit of Loctite on the heli-coil, let it cure, and then thread the bolt in. This is all assuming it starts to leak again. My heat ddid partially go out this morning, but I'm hoping that's just remnant air in the system after refilling. No visible leaks yet.

haha, my bad on the spelling. We actually just got back from Scotland.

I did think about putting in an 8mm bolt opposed tot he factory M6 but I didn't think it would fit through the hole on the water pump or gasket, maybe I should have gone that way. I'm really hoping it doesn't leak I only got the one bolt torqued to about 6ft-lbs. I'm going to pick up a bottle of the Subaru Conditioner today along with a Subaru radiator cap. If it still leaks, maybe I'll try one of those epoxy/Loctite thread repair injections since this is a pretty low torque application. I think I can access the one bolt without removing the timing belt.

Yeah, meant to say that but forgot to include the heli-coils. We'll hope for the best. One of them didn't feel super tight. They were a pain in the rump roast to do in that area.

I have one of the caps with a lever on top to release pressure. I'll get an OEM style one just in case. The old gasket was paper, it was also an auto parts store water pump. The new pump is Subaru and a metal gasket. The new pump is in, I had to re-tap 4 of 6 holes and install heli-coils. They kept stripping out as I torqued them to 9 ft-lbs. I don't understand why they stripped but they did. For the record, I'm using Snap-On's aircraft grade torque wrenches so I know I wasn't over torquing.

I ended up pulling the water pump it was leaking pretty bad. I went to install the new pump and it turns out two of the bolt holes were stripped so now I am working on getting those repaired but no one seems to stock any repair products.

Hello Everyone, I have a 2002 Impreza TS MT with 137k on it. Head Gaskets were last done about 60k ago. The water pump, radiator hose, thermostat, and all associated gaskets were replaced at that time. The water pump never sealed very well and has a slow drop from the gasket, not the weep hole. I recently replaced the radiator cap (maybe 10k ago). The car has never overheated and the temperature gauge sits right about where it should when warm, maybe ever so slightly biased towards cold. I turned the heat on the other day and it was barely warm. I picked up a bottle of coolant and poured about 1/3 of the bottle straight into the radiator with it uphill from the heater core. The heat came back, I figured it was just low from the slow perpetual leak I never got around to fixing. The car does not burn excessive oil (maybe 1/2 qt low at time of oil change. There is no indication that the car is burning coolant, but it is hard to tell when driving. I do not smell anything sweet in the exhaust, but that's not a surefire diagnosis. A couple days later, heat is gone again. I add a little bit more coolant but it doesn't help. I drive the car a little later and the heat is fine. I have noticed the radiator hose is quite hard to the touch when the car is hot. If I release the pressure on the radiator cap, the overflow reservoir bubbles. Is this all caused by the leak letting air in? Bad water pump? Bad thermostat? Dreaded head gaskets? Cheers, Andrew

Looks like I pay have located a bypass for this system. at about 10 minutes into the video, the presenter shows his drawing and sets it up with success at the end. I do not have the resistors so I will have to find some and give this a try. I ordered a bunch of resistors from Amazon, they will be here Tuesday so I'll give it a shot. The logic int he video is sound though.

If it's just starting to make noise, you're probably fine. I have an 02 and I smoked the input shaft bearing. I drove probably 10k on it before the debris in the gear oil started to grind the synchros down enough to where I had to hold it in gear. I still drove another 600 miles home. It never failed on me. Changing the oil won't hurt anything. I wouldn't add anything to the gear oil, transmissions are sensitive. Just buy quality gear oil (Subaru, Amsoil, or Motul) I replaced my transmission myself, it's a pretty easy job once the exhaust is off. It's just a pain, the transmission is heavy and getting the splines to align can be a pain. $300 is cheap for a transmission, but if you threw it in you would get more money out of the car....a bad transmission will certainly lower the sale price more than $500-600 dollars.

Looks like this service is only available to reset the module if the vehicle was in a crash, not for a bad sensor.

I've not looked into the resource Brus Brother provided. I'll take a look at it first chance I get and see. I guess the worst that happens is I ruin a broken sensor haha.

I did a little research in the occupant detection sensor at it doesn't look like it's as simple as a short or not in the sensor. It looks like it operates of of capacitance and the presence of a human more than just weight alone. Until I can confirm how it really works, I'm hesitant to just short the circuit...I would hate to blow the ECU or deploy the airbags or something stupid. SOA was unwilling to divulge any information but I suspect the bearing manufacturer had a bad batch since the failure was always due to a bad bearing. Subaru did shut down any shipments on engines from the first warehouse where the first two blocks came from. Hopefully no one else falls victim to it.