Daskuppler

That makes sense. Thank you for clarifying.

When you buy the seat cushion, I presume it comes with the occupant detection mat already installed. Does this come with the airbags as well, or can they be moved over from the old seat to save some money?

I don't have the test harness or the SSMIII or SSM4. Can you troubleshoot this without that? I have code B1650 and the SRS light comes on intermittently. The seat has never been wet, apart from upholstery cleaning. All connectors are tight and all of the wires I can see are in good shape.

I don't think it does. It wasn't on the part's list from the dealer. I got a new block, all timing components, all new gaskets, and fluids. They did spark plugs in the first block replacement.

I have not, the dealership.looked at it while they were working on the engine and said it needed to be replaced and that it would be almost $2000. I'll go through the TSB today.

I'm going to revive this thread now that my car is back from the dealership with a new block. Has anyone replaced the seat before? Is it hard? Do you need special tools to deal with the airbag? Any idea what part number I need for this? Cheers

Thank you everyone. The block assembly will be replaced under warranty. The engine still ran when it was shut off, just not well. The connecting rod did not break so there should not be contact unless there was enough play in the bad bearing to hit the valves. We shall see.

Dealership already drained the oil. I checked the dipstick before it was towed and it was shimmery.

Only concern is metal circulating from the failed bearing, rod damage, and crank shaft damage. The heads have 115k on them, the block has 300 miles. I was hoping to get remanufactured heads out of the blown engine. They haven't pulled the heads or timing of so they have not been inspected yet. Can these be checked without removing the block? Say I wanted to have a third party look at them

Hello Everyone, Any idea if this bad bearing is enough to have damaged my heads? Started making noise at about 5000rpms, drive for a couple miles before it was safe to pull over. Quite loud when running and the engine had almost no power. Block has 300 miles on it and is under warranty. The stealership doesn't want to acknowledge the heads at all. 20220818_.3gp

Subaru axles are green. They should have a hard boot on them, not neoprene (unless they have been rebuilt. Take photos of yours before you go so you can recognize them. Also, for the older cars, sometimes the dealers will have rebuilt OEM axles. They are cheaper and of the same quality. You can also have a shop near you rebuild them for less and the quality is usually pretty good. You will also need a punch to remove the roll pin, otherwise it will never come off.

It kinda sounds.like bad CV joints. The inners won't click on tightt turns like the outters do, but they will cause a bad vibration under load. If it is slowly leaking grease, it may be bad. They don't usually get worse as things warm up though. Parts store CV axles suck though so this can be an expensive repair with Subaru parts.

Ahh okay, my local store used to just give me their code reader and let me do whatever I needed to. I did buy a code reader a while ago though so maybe that's changed.

You will need to disconnect the battery and then drive the car for a couple hours to. Make sure all of the system checks are completed. If you disconnect the battery and drive straight to emissions, they can tell you did that and they will fail you.

Yeah, it's kind of a catch all code. It's rarely catalytic converter though. It's possible the overfilling on the oil threw the code as well. That's a lot of extra oil and I would be imagine you were burning quite a lot of oil which could throw the low efficiency code. Maybe clear the code at your local auto parts store or disconnect the battery and see if no it comes back.

For me this code was my head gaskets. The code was thrown when excessive coolant was being burned. New had gaskets, code gone. Hasn't come back. Do you have any other symptoms? How do your spark plugs look? Is the top radiator hose hard after driving? car hard to start? low coolant? Loss of heat? Erratic temperatures on the coolant temperature gauge?

They are now refusing to replace the heads and are claiming it's the same repair as before...However, they are waiting on timing components to complete the repair and they never replaced anything in regards to running the first time. Seems like something went haywire to me....Pesky stealerships!

I think you should change your handle to General Disappointment haha! On a more relevant note, I agree with what the others said. Subaru turbos are generally unreliable. If you can do it yourself, great, but parts are definitely getting hard to find and the quality is worse now than when the car was made

i would say your blower motor resistor is failing. Usually they only work on high when they completely fail. If I'm not mistaken, the AC won't work with a bad one but I could be wrong. Usually a pretty easy fix, but I'm not familiar with the location on the 2011.

Looks like we will be getting a whole new engine. They said it will be a couple weeks due to the warranty complications.

That makes sense. They reused a lot of parts including the sprockets and timing chain. The parts list was really only the block and gaskets. Hopefully there is enough collateral damage this go around to to replace pretty much everything. After 300 miles, the oil was shimmery. Still golden, but shimmery.

Yes, it's at the dealership. They will be tearing it down again. They told us it's now unlimited mileage for 36 months. Who knows though. It is indeed a dealer remanufactured block. New blocks and new heads are apparently unavailable. Why do these have such a high failure rate? It seems like remanufacturing a block would be a relatively simple process when done in a factory.

301.5 miles later and it threw a rod. They're still assessing damage.

I usually change oil at 5k intervals (running Mobile1, Castrol, etc). Amsoil advertises 20k on their signature series, I would never go that far. Is 10k -15k unrealistic with a modern engine and quality oil/filter (I usually use Purolator One)? What temperature are these CVTs supposed to be running at? My old school knowledge says keep transmissions cool, but My Xterra is happy at 180 degrees and I've read that most modern transmissions run significantly hotter than automatics of the 90's.

I was planning on just using the Subaru oil the dealership puts in for the break in, then switch to the Amsoil SS I got in today. I'm guessing the same goes for the Subaru oil, 500-1k before it's drained and replaced with the Amsoil SS? On a side note, what are your thoughts on extended drain intervals? You have also been discussing the CVT in a towing thread and I didn't want to hijack that thread. I understand the CVT is weak, what do you recommend to keep them going as long as possible? I drain and fill (about 5 qts) once per year, usually about 20k miles. Is subaru CVT fluid the best option out there, or is something from AMSOIL or Castrol equally as good/better? i presume they have a built in cooler, but if not should one be added? We drive in the mountains a lot and are both rather aggressive drivers.