Daskuppler

Only concern is metal circulating from the failed bearing, rod damage, and crank shaft damage. The heads have 115k on them, the block has 300 miles. I was hoping to get remanufactured heads out of the blown engine. They haven't pulled the heads or timing of so they have not been inspected yet. Can these be checked without removing the block? Say I wanted to have a third party look at them

Hello Everyone, Any idea if this bad bearing is enough to have damaged my heads? Started making noise at about 5000rpms, drive for a couple miles before it was safe to pull over. Quite loud when running and the engine had almost no power. Block has 300 miles on it and is under warranty. The stealership doesn't want to acknowledge the heads at all. 20220818_.3gp

Subaru axles are green. They should have a hard boot on them, not neoprene (unless they have been rebuilt. Take photos of yours before you go so you can recognize them. Also, for the older cars, sometimes the dealers will have rebuilt OEM axles. They are cheaper and of the same quality. You can also have a shop near you rebuild them for less and the quality is usually pretty good. You will also need a punch to remove the roll pin, otherwise it will never come off.

It kinda sounds.like bad CV joints. The inners won't click on tightt turns like the outters do, but they will cause a bad vibration under load. If it is slowly leaking grease, it may be bad. They don't usually get worse as things warm up though. Parts store CV axles suck though so this can be an expensive repair with Subaru parts.

Ahh okay, my local store used to just give me their code reader and let me do whatever I needed to. I did buy a code reader a while ago though so maybe that's changed.

You will need to disconnect the battery and then drive the car for a couple hours to. Make sure all of the system checks are completed. If you disconnect the battery and drive straight to emissions, they can tell you did that and they will fail you.

Yeah, it's kind of a catch all code. It's rarely catalytic converter though. It's possible the overfilling on the oil threw the code as well. That's a lot of extra oil and I would be imagine you were burning quite a lot of oil which could throw the low efficiency code. Maybe clear the code at your local auto parts store or disconnect the battery and see if no it comes back.

For me this code was my head gaskets. The code was thrown when excessive coolant was being burned. New had gaskets, code gone. Hasn't come back. Do you have any other symptoms? How do your spark plugs look? Is the top radiator hose hard after driving? car hard to start? low coolant? Loss of heat? Erratic temperatures on the coolant temperature gauge?

They are now refusing to replace the heads and are claiming it's the same repair as before...However, they are waiting on timing components to complete the repair and they never replaced anything in regards to running the first time. Seems like something went haywire to me....Pesky stealerships!

I think you should change your handle to General Disappointment haha! On a more relevant note, I agree with what the others said. Subaru turbos are generally unreliable. If you can do it yourself, great, but parts are definitely getting hard to find and the quality is worse now than when the car was made

i would say your blower motor resistor is failing. Usually they only work on high when they completely fail. If I'm not mistaken, the AC won't work with a bad one but I could be wrong. Usually a pretty easy fix, but I'm not familiar with the location on the 2011.

Looks like we will be getting a whole new engine. They said it will be a couple weeks due to the warranty complications.

That makes sense. They reused a lot of parts including the sprockets and timing chain. The parts list was really only the block and gaskets. Hopefully there is enough collateral damage this go around to to replace pretty much everything. After 300 miles, the oil was shimmery. Still golden, but shimmery.

Yes, it's at the dealership. They will be tearing it down again. They told us it's now unlimited mileage for 36 months. Who knows though. It is indeed a dealer remanufactured block. New blocks and new heads are apparently unavailable. Why do these have such a high failure rate? It seems like remanufacturing a block would be a relatively simple process when done in a factory.

301.5 miles later and it threw a rod. They're still assessing damage.

I usually change oil at 5k intervals (running Mobile1, Castrol, etc). Amsoil advertises 20k on their signature series, I would never go that far. Is 10k -15k unrealistic with a modern engine and quality oil/filter (I usually use Purolator One)? What temperature are these CVTs supposed to be running at? My old school knowledge says keep transmissions cool, but My Xterra is happy at 180 degrees and I've read that most modern transmissions run significantly hotter than automatics of the 90's.

I was planning on just using the Subaru oil the dealership puts in for the break in, then switch to the Amsoil SS I got in today. I'm guessing the same goes for the Subaru oil, 500-1k before it's drained and replaced with the Amsoil SS? On a side note, what are your thoughts on extended drain intervals? You have also been discussing the CVT in a towing thread and I didn't want to hijack that thread. I understand the CVT is weak, what do you recommend to keep them going as long as possible? I drain and fill (about 5 qts) once per year, usually about 20k miles. Is subaru CVT fluid the best option out there, or is something from AMSOIL or Castrol equally as good/better? i presume they have a built in cooler, but if not should one be added? We drive in the mountains a lot and are both rather aggressive drivers.

I got it in and it seems to be working. I think it was originally pretty close to the middle of the core...I got it about 1/3 of the way back. It all seems to be cycling normally now. Thank you!

Will U-Haul even let you hook the trailer up? They follow safety rules to a T. I'd vote for sell the stuff and buy it again. Get a big roof box, a hitch mount box, and call it good. You can usually get them used on craigslist. I have a 5x8 enclosed steel framed trailer, it weighs about 1100lbs. I have towed it with a 14 Forester with the CVT and would not recommend it. I live in Colorado and the hills are a nightmare. As GD said, baby the transmission change the fluid (I do a drain and fill once a year). I think you're asking for trouble, but who knows. Sometimes things just work out and are okay. Best of luck!

I'm guessing that's the little black thing that was stuck in the evaporator? If I recall correctly I put it all back together and forgot to put that back in the evaporator.... that's likely the issue, I'll see if I can get it back in there without pulling the evaporator

I guess that's a possibility. It's been 90 plus since I've been troubleshooting it. When the compressor first went in I recall it cycling just fine. It was not turning off when the lines had ice on them though.

Hopefully it comes back Friday. I'll just the Subaru oil for the break in and Amsoil will be delivered tomorrow. How long should I run until the first change?

I added a little more refrigerant, the guage reads about 36pis with compressor running. The system still ices up when on recirculate. Filters are clean and new. I did notice that the filters do not sit flush in the filter box so when the recirculate door opens, the side of the filter obstructs about an inch of the opening. Is this normal? The opening is in no way obstructed and I feel like there is plenty of room for air flow, just something I noticed.

I live in Colorado. It's been humid for colorado standards, but probably only about 35%. The cabin air filter is new, there actually wasn't one in there when I started this fiasco. I cleaned off the evaporator while it was apart, it was caked with 20 years of debris. When everythin works, there is plenty of air flow. I'll check the charge and see if it needs a little more. Hopefully it's that simple. I can always just run it with outside air, but I would prefer the system to work properly.

Randomly I started getting a loss of air flow despite the blower running on high. I can hear air moving, but there is very little out of the vents. After inspecting further, I found no leaks in the duct work and all controls are working fine. I did notice that when it is set to recirculation, the low pressure line has ice on it in the engine bay. This is only present on recirculation. Taking in outside air results in no ice. I would imagine the lack of airflow is because the evaporator is icing over as well (I get air flow back pretty quickly if I take in outside air). What would cause this?