Daskuppler

Have you met a Toyota driver? I'll pass. They are overpriced, overrated, and most people who drive them are a$$holes. My statement is in regards to the fact that Subaru has a history of making quality vehicles. All manufacturers make lemons. I get your point, this was not Subaru's best run of vehicles and quality has suffered. However, this did absolutely nothing to address the issue at hand.

I didn't even think about the oil analysis. I'll get one run. I'll check the PCV valve as well, they are cheap replacement. I don't expect much from Subaru, but it's worth a shot. I just ordered the Blackstone analysis kit, I'll post the results here when I get them back. It's at the end of the oil change interval so it's good timing.

This issue had been resolved. I be had the system evacuated, I replaced the compressor, expansion valve, all associates o-rings, cleaned off the evaporator (the previous owner apparently did not have a cabin air filter in so it was covered in crap), put the system under vacuum for 90 minutes, recharged, and it's good to go.

Hello Everyone, I have a 14 Forester which is affected by the oil consumption TSB/Recall (if you can call it that). I had the local dealership test it for about 30,000 miles ago and they said it didn't burn a drop of oil; yet on every oil change I need a quart of oil to make it to a 5k interval and have since 25k on the vehicle. I argued with the dealership for a while and that went nowhere. I am now burning 1qt every 750 miles. My last road trip took 5qts of oil just to get home. Is there anything that can be done to slow the consumption? I have tried pretty much every brand of oil in regular and high mileage, ow-20, 0w-40, 5w-30, and topping off with 10w-30. Nothing helps, not even Subaru's oil which "didn't burn anything" when they performed their test. Castrol is worse, but nothing really improved the situation. The car is now over 100k and I am rather dissapointed in the car. M family loves Subaru and this won't really change anything, but this car has had every issue but the CVT issues. Does anyone by chance have a contact with SOA that may be willing to help cover the cost of a replacement engine? Or labor, or something? The car is still new by Subaru standards but burns oil like it has 300k on it. Any suggestions? Now is definitely not the market to buy another car. Cheers, Andrew

I did not. It was placed under vacuum and charged through the gauges so a shop isn't really going to do it any different. I'm trying not to spend the money sinces it's over $200 to have it done here

Since I am getting some cold air and then it cycles warm, I am assuming nothing is clogged. Could this be a bad expansion valve, or is it more likely compressor? The onl y things not replaced are the exanpsion valve, compressor, and evaporator...

Thank you for the TSB, I'll look into it tomorrow. No major water on the seat. Maybe a little bit of moisture from small spills, but no drenching and no water under the seat. I hate all of the fancy bits in the cars anymore. The electric seats are nice, but I miss the days of using the key to turn the passenger airbag off haha

The stored Code is: B1650 Occupant Detection System Malfunction. There were also several ABS codes, but I think they may be left over from the alignment that was done not too long ago. I cleared them and will check and see if they come back after driving for a little while.

Thanks for your input. I actually decided earlier today to go wit the OEM bearings so I will be picking up two of them tomorrow. Unfortunately, the shop that replaced the rears told me they were using OEM but installed Timkens. I usually do everything but internal engine and transmission work myself, but all I had was a small tool box, a bummed back and raining weather at an Airbnb so the shop did the rears. Thank you for your input! I used to be a big fan of aftermarket stuff, but I find as time goes on the quality keeps going down.

I've not checked the horn, next time the light is on I'll check. As for my assumption that it is related to the passenger seat, when the light is on, the passenger airbag turns off, whether or not a passenger is present. It only seems to occur when a passenger is in the seat as well. I'll work on getting the code and post it here when I have it.

Hello Everyone, I have a 14 Forester 2.5i Premium and recently the SRS light has started coming on. Along with it, the passenger airbag turns on and off. It seems to be related to the passenger seat but I'm not entirely certain. I know nothing about the SRS system so I don't really know where to begin or what sensors are involved. I have a code reader, which will read SRS codes (if I upgrade the firmware for $100). Any suggestions on where to begin? Cheers, Andrew

What are your thoughts on SKF bearings for the front?

You're welcome. The stuttering has gone away as well so that should be a clue as to how bad the bearings were. They put Timkens in so they should be better.

Just got it back from a shop. The passenger bearing was about ready to come apart and the driver was almost seized.

It's definitely present all of the time over about 20mph. At higher speeds it is hard to hear due to road noise, but still present. We did just this, my wife drove and I put my head out the back window. The noise was very specifically coming from the rear passenger side. It sounded scratchier outside by the wheel than it does in the cab, but nonetheless it is coming from the rear passenger. 4 new Continental TrueContact tires. I have not tried the tight circles, I thought that really only diagnosed the front end. I'll give it a go in the next parking lot. I'm currently in Oregon. The wheel bearing is a Moog (yeah I know they have fallen a lot from where they used to be, it was roughly $200 and the only thing available locally and I needed the car back on the road). I have no ABS light, just the random SRS light (I haven't bothered to hook up the code reader and see what's going. The car still tracks fine, there is no abnormal tire wear, no traction control activation or ABS activation. Apart from the slight hesitation that presents kind of like a missfire, but feels much "smoother" the car drives fine. No lack of power, it drives fine off road and in snow and ice. The CVT fluid was changed before the trip with Subaru CVTF-II so it's fresh as well. Apart from burning oil, it seems to be running great. Lug buts are all tight. I did not rotate tires as all I have is the scissor jack. I could throw the spare on, but I feel like if a belt had slipped the tire should be noticeably deformed or show signs of irregular wear. If I am wrong though, I can certainly try this out.

Good point, I'll check them in the morning. We just got new tires right before the trip.

Hello Everyone, I have a '14 Forester Premium with 112k on it. I am on a road trip and about 800 miles into the trip, I started hearing a cyclical thumping coming from the back of the car. The best I can tell is that it is coming from the rear passenger tire. The wheel bearing was replaced on that wheel approximately 10k ago, I do not feel anymore heat in the passenger hub versus the driver, but that's not exactly a scientific approach to feel it haha. I still have about 3000 miles to go. Thoughts? I have some tools but limited so there's no replacing the hub or CV axle. Could it be anything else? Any way to isolate one from the other? A bad CV might make it home, a bad hub could be catastrophic. About the same time the noise developed, the car seems to have developed a little bit of stumble under about half load and between 2k and 3k rpms. It's very pronounced, no CEL and it doesn't really feel like a misfire. It's there every time and not present under full load. Also, the SRS light has started coming on periodically. I suspect this is just a bad connection, but you never know what systems are connected these days. Thoughts? Cheers, Andrew

The blend door control is very stiff so maybe replacing the cable would be beneficial. The heater usually works pretty well, but it could be out of whack to where it's not turning the heat completely off. I'll dig into it a little more and see. It might be time to take it to the shop. Do these cars have a pressure switch? I don't see one when I look for parts at the auto parts store. I'm guessing it's all controlled by the ECM, but I'm not entirely sure. If I remove another shim, there is no gap so I just removed the one.

So I checked the clutch air gap and it was at about .23, which is way out of spec. I pulled the clutch and removed one shim from the shaft and put it all back together. It seems to be working better, but I noticed the side vents blow cold air and the middle vents blow coolish air. When the compressor cycles off the center vents turn hot (like the heater is on) and the side vents turn coolish before the compressor comes back on. Any thoughts?

Definitely none of that. There was a little bit of leakage in my the low pressure line, but I replaced the o ring and it's hosting vacuum now.

It does not sound like the compressor is slipping, but I don't know. I can throw some feeler gauges in and check the gap. It runs for a minute or so then shuts off and comes back on 30 seconds or so later. It was blowing cold air when running initially but slowly got worse and now only blows hot air even with the compressor running.

I replaced the evaporator, drier, high pressure line, and the valve core on the low pressure line. I then pulled a vacuum on the system for about 1.5 hours. I turned the pump off and it held vacuum for 45 minutes at which point I hooked up the refrigerant. The system took roughly 16 ounces (guessing by what it felt like was left in the can) and the AC was blowing cold. It was cold at the time (35 degrees) so I didn't test it too much. Today, it was about 65 so I gave the AC a run and it was cold, though not ice cold, for a while then it would get warm, then cold, then warm, and so on. I got home, threw the gauges on it and low side reads 52psi with the compressor off and high side reads 80psi. Witch compressor running, low side drops to about 30 and high side goes to about 90. I pulled some refrigerant out and low side pressure drops to about 20psi when running, but is still about 50 when off. What's going on? I'm lost.

I agree, having a shop do it is a better option. I can recharge a nearly empty system in my garage with an auto parts store kit for $50. If thje AC doesn't perform as desired, I can always take it to a shop where they recover the refrigerant I already put in, vacuum the system, and put it back in. I get charged almost nothing since the refrigerant was already there. I guessed at 4 ounces based on what was left in the can. No, none of it is done per spec, but it works for the most part. When I did the same process on my wife's '14 forester, it seems to work fine. The air at the vents meets factory specifications so I'm happy with the fix. The shop wouldn't install a Subaru Compressor but still wanted the $1100 to do the job.

Can you really trust a partially rubber line that's been in a junkyard for who knows how long? Just the store bought cans. A/C Pro Synthetic Refrigerant w/ oil to be exact. If the system isn't cooling as desired, I can always take it to a shop and have them vac it down. It's still cheaper than paying them for refrigerant.

Back to square 1, Rock Auto will not Ship to Colorado.