Daskuppler

It is primarily noise, you can feel it every so slightly in the floor boards. I put the car on jack stands and was not able to discern any difference between left and right. There was no play in the wheel. I did take it out for another short drive and noticed that when I load the right wheel in a turn the noise became louder. I ordered a wheel bearing so we will see what that does. The rear on on the same side went out a little while ago so maybe there was an impact on the passenger side that is still causing problems. The bearing should be here today and I should be able to install it tomorrow. I'll follow up with any changes.

The issue on turns was before the work was done. It is separate from the present issue and no longer present. I'm confused as to why the brakes are even in question, they were never touched. Is there a way to diagnose the wheel bearing and/or CV joints. There is no clicking present on sharp turns.

The work was done because there was a shake coming from there passenger side front tire on high-speed sweeping left turns. Before the work was done, I verified that the tie rod end was infact blown in that wheel. It was rusted to the inner so I cut it off and replaced both, I did the same with the driver side since I was going to have an alignment done. The struts were replaced because they were pretty rusted and the car had 115k rough miles on it. I used KYB struts. The ball joints were replaced since it was all apart and they were quite rusty, one of them was blown. Both pinch bolts broke off and were drilled out and replaced with a through bolt and nut. The tie rod ends and ball joints were Moog and the sway bar end links were Napa premium chassis. The current noise/vibration sounds very similar to a warped rotor but nothing is felt in the steering wheel or brake pedal. The rotors were replaced with factory rotors and pads are at 50%. The noise is audible at speeds over 35mph and is not present under acceleration, though it might be hard to hear. It also goes away when brakes are applied. The noise appeared about 20 miles after the alignment was done and was first noticed at highway speeds. It sounds like it is coming from passenger front center. I did not notice the noise with the card on Jack stands. There is no play in the front wheel or noise indicating a bad wheel bearing but I'm not a mechanic so I'm not 100% positive.

I'd probably be more inclined to just replace them at that point, but it is an $800 bill so that's depressing haha

Hello Everyone, I have a 2014 Forester which has developed a vibration/clunking in the front end. As the title says, I recently replaced struts, tie rod ends, and ball joints. The alignment came back in just fine and is spot on. The clunking is getting worse, and seems to be isolated to the passenger side though it is hard to say. I cannot feel it in the steering wheel or brake pedal. The clunking is only present when I let off the gas, it is not there under acceleration and goes away when the brakes are applied. I was thinking maybe a bad CV joint, but I'm not sure. The boots look fine, but they were rebuilt maybe 15k ago. Cheers, Andrew

Coins something have been damaged during a stud replacement? The tire shop broke one off and paid for another shop to replace it. The vibration was noticed sometime after that

Hello Everyone, I have a 14 Forester 2.5 Premium with 100k on it. Recently, I have noticed a shudder in the steering wheel when making left-hand sweeping turns at speeds over 50. It feels like it is coming from the passenger front wheel but it is hard to tell while driving. All tie rod ends, ball joints, and wheel bearings feel tight. However, with the driver side tire on the ground and passenger side jacked up, there is a significant amount of play in the wheel with very little translated to the driver side (though there is some movement). There is also a "rattle" sound coming from that corner of the car on cold starts, and some popping when bumps are hit just right. I did not notice any play in the strut, but I did not remove it to double confirm anything. I was thinking the rack and pinon is going out, but steering is still smooth, tight, and there are no leaks. I also don't want to just throw in 1k worth of parts without knowing for sure. There is no abnormal tire wear either. The alignment was just done, maybe 1k miles ago and everything is in spec. What else could be causing this? It does not occur on right-hand turns. What could be causing this? Any other troubleshooting steps?

It also says not to use springs which are 20-30 % stiffer which would be the king springs

For everyone's reference, here is Bilstein's response: 'Our B6 dampers are intended for the OEM spring, the dampening profile would not be optimal for a 20-30% increase nor will the travel of the dampers be optimal for a lift spring, this will keep the dampers at the top of their travel and will cause premature topping out." So despite Primitive and Rallitek offering stiffer springs as a package, they are not compatible and not recommended for use with B6 dampers.

Hello Everyone, I have a '14 Forester and a new Chamberlain MyQ enabled garage door. I am assuming the garage door uses rolling codes so I understand that I need to do the second part of the programming and press learn on the opener then go back to the car. My problem is that the first steps are not working. I cleared all codes by holding Homelink 1 and 3 buttons until they flashed rapidly. I then pressed and held Homelink 1 and the functioning garage door button and waited for the rapid flash. It never comes. I repeated for Homelink 2 and 3 with the same results. Am I doing something wrong? Is the mirror bad? This is the only vehicle we have with this functionality so I cannot crosscheck it on another vehicle. The remote Keypad learned in just fine though. Cheers

This car replaced a 2000 Legacy and I drive an Impreza. It was big change going from the 4EAT to the CVT and the ride height. It's been a great vehicle, it is just time for new struts so I thought I would see if there were any upgrades that were worth spending money on. I have had good experiences with KYB in the past and it looks like that's still the rout to go since there are a lot of complaints about the Billsteins, even the B4s. There is no expectation for it to perform like the legacy, though it does pretty good with good rubber on it. I'll look into some new sway bar links and see if there is any support for alternative suspension.

Makes sense. I was trying to reduce body roll and say a little, but it seems like the aftermarket stuff just isn't well designed right now. That's kind of what I was reading when I started researching more. Thank you for your input!

Hello Everyone! My 14 Forester premium has 90k on it and it's definitely time for new suspension. I thought I was all set and was just about to order Billstein B6 struts and King springs.... Then I started reading that's a bad combination and not recommended. What is everyone running and are you happy with it? I am a spirited driver on asphalt and gravel. The car sees rocks, snow, ice, mud and everything in between. The car is also frequently loaded and tows periodically.

Good call on the CV boot, the axles are fairly new, but there was a small hole in the passenger one. That accounts for the smell, now I just need to find the leak. I'm working on another vehicle at the moment, but I'll delve into this one shortly.

It's definitely not anti freeze, no sweet smell. It smells similar to axle grease, but nowhere near as potent. I'll check the cabin filter and look around the engine bay and see if I can find anything. The car does have an emissions cel that comes and goes along with an issue filling up with gas (the pump auto shuts off at about 2 gallons if left at full flow).

For what it's worth, my wife purchased a 2014 several years ago with 20k on it. We now have 97k. The car has burned 1qt of oil every 3k miles since we got it and Subaru refuses to acknowledge that there is a problem. Both of us have owned Subarus for years and we have had. More problems with her car than anything in the past. That being said, it's still a fantastic vehicle, just carry oil :,-). The most serious repair was a wheel bearing at 90k. We are hard on vehicles (frequent dirt roads, hauling, towing, and high rpms as we are always in the mountains). We have the CVT and have had no problems, I change the fluid every 30k and it is always dark, but still red when doing so. Fuel economy is fantastic and they are great (as usual) in the snow. I would but one again, but wind but an older one over a newer one of you could find one with lower or comparable mileage.

So what would be a possible cause? I know there's a leak in the system somewhere, but if it's not likely to be in the cabin, what could cause the smell?

Thank you for the tips! So it's not really necessary to replace the valves and o rings unless the seal is taken apart?

Hello Everyone, I have a 2002 Impreza TS. The AC went out last Summer, I recharged it this Summer knowing that there was a leak somewhere. I recently started smelling a chemical Smell in the cabin with the AC running. I'm assuming it is refrigerant since I know there is a leak somewhere. I would assume it is coming from the evaporator, but I don't know that much about the system. My understanding is that it is accessible from the glove box, is this true? Is there anything else I should look for when I tear it apart? Could it be leaving from anything else? What else should be replaced? I was planning on relaxing all of the o-ring gaskets throughout the whole system just to be sure since the system has been purged. Can I refill it myself with auto parts store canisters or do I need to pay a shop to ensure a proper charge?

That's indeed what the stealership said. I found a local company that would rebuild them for me for 179 a piece. They will be done tomorrow. Do you know why they stopped the program? It seems everyone did since you can't buy them ANYWHERE.

Sounds good. I'll call Subaru and see if they have any remanufactured ones. There were none available on the website. I have an extra vehicle so I can always pull them and have them rebuilt.

Hello Everyone! I have a 2014 Forester N/A with what I can only assume is at least one bad front CV axle. I get a rather bad clicking coming under turning. Anyway, what is a decent brand to use for a replacement? usually I use remanufactured axles from NAPA but they don't offer any. NAPA only has new Cardone axles for $204 each. Subaru wants $390 on their parts website and probably even more in a dealership. I have heard Cardone has gone the way of cheap china and aren't worth much as a new set. So I ask, what would you put on? The vehicle is driven pretty hard (light offroading, heavy acceleration/braking, hauls weight, etc. It has 93k on it so I'm a little disillusioned with OEM, especially looking at an $800 bill to do it myself. Cheers, Andrew

I would prefer to keep the ramp I already have inside so it is not exposed to rain, snow, ice, rocks, road salts, bugs, etc. I use the roof for a roof box on trips and the hitch is frequently used for a bike rack or trailer. There may not be a good option for interior storage, I was just hoping someone somewhere had seen something that might work or had an idea.

Hello Everyone, I have a '14 Forester. The current issue is trying to store a ramp for my pups (one had had 4 knee surgeries, the other has displasia). The ramp is just in the way all of the time and really limits room for said beds and other stuff, especially if we are on a trip. I thought about building as platform for the back to slide it under and put a bed on top but I was hoping for something to go on the ceiling. I like the idea of the molle racks, but in not sure it comes out far enough to clear paneling if I were to strap the ramp on it. Any ideas?

I'm looking at the Nameless axleback 5" muffler bolt on kit. Does anyone have any experience with it? Looks like it is popular on the XT and relatively new for the NA motors.