Daskuppler

I got a hold of the manager, tow truck showed up this morning and it's already in a bay. Hopefully it's as simple as just tightening a couple bolts.

One would hope... So far they're ignoring me, but someone will eventually care given it's a safety issue

Here's a video... It's getting worse, I'm assuming they forgot to torque the steering column brace, but I don't dare tear anything apart and get blamed for whatever else they have messed up or forgotten to do.

Idosubaru... I'm confused as well. I'm not sure sure how to describe it, but it happens when tires are rolling and stationary. It is independent of road conditions. I guess I'll contact the delightful dealership again.

A weird bump/popping has developed in the steering column. It feels like it is coming from directly behind the steering wheel and is inaudible. It only happens when the wheel is turned more than 75% to lock in either direction. The steering wheel feels like it is actually shifting in its plane of operation. Does the dash removal require the steering column to be removed in these vehicles (I know it does in other Subarus).

Thank you everyone for the info! I just ordered two of these: 11044AA670

Is one part number better than the other? It looks like the graphite coatings are reversed

That seems to be what I've done. Driver I have to order new gaskets, sounds I get the turbo MLS ones or start eth the single layer graphite coated ones Subaru sold me?

I did writing out on both sides... All the holes looked like they lined up...

Started it this morning and it poured oil from both sides, top and bottom of the heads....

I only had one helicoil in. I couldn't get a second one in. I got a time sert installed and it torqued down to the 30 ftl lbs spec. I'll check it again in the morning after full cure. That being said, I cleaned the area up a little better and realized that this particular bolt hole is actually in the water pump housing, not on the block; so worst case scenario I'm out a new water pump for $150 and I get a nice new clean hole. Working at 4am is not my sharpest time!

It is in car, radiator was removed for the head gaskets and hasn't gone back in yet. A machine shop loaned me a time sert set to try out with a liberal application of loctite 271. If it doesn't work, they said it will need to go to them for repair.

Thank you! How do those work? Will they work with the current messed up hole and slightly crooked threads (or what's left of them)?

So I got the 13/32 drill bit for the helicoil, drilled a nice hole, and then jacked up the threads tapping it. It was all going very well, then the tap kicked off crooked and then slipped in the threads. Helicoil threads in and locks in place, but the bolt won't tighten down on it and ends up spinning the helicoil. Pulling the bolt removes the helicoil. How bad is this? Where do I go from here? I don't think a bigger bolt will fit through the idler... Would something like this be acceptable: https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-BIG-SERT-Oversized-Metric-5012/dp/B003QB5HR6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8 How do you ensure the new hole is perfectly centered with the old one?

Picked up the car today. Heater didn't work. I figured they forgot to clip in the temperature control cable behind the glove box... Turns out they broke the clip, ziptied it and it didn't work...

All was going well and then I went to put the last timing idler on the belt to button it all up and it stripped the threads... Helicoil kit was available, but it didn't come with a drill bit and no one has one locally... So I now have a stripped hole in the block and a 13/32 bit on order

The block cleaned up in about 5 minutes with those wheels... That was fantastic! Heads are on, I'll finish assembly today and start it up. Last time I did this I had an old school needle style torque wrench... it's amazing how much easier and quicker it torques with a Snap On digital techangle haha. Final torque was consistently about 80 ft. Lbs on outter bolts and about 85 in the middle

Sounds good, just wanted to make sure. What's the best way to prep the block? Plastic scraper isn't doing anything not is a blue brillo pad... In afraid to use green or a razor blade like I see recommended a lot... These seem to be safe if used intelligently... https://www.amazon.com/3M-18733-Roloc-Bristle-Disc-Grade/dp/B01MSU3PYQ/ref=asc_df_B01MSU3PYQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167141040944&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14711658656758044995&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028789&hvtargid=pla-312385222261&psc=1&mcid=c1428ec972263d6c8b5dccd014b22426&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwbitBhDIARIsABfFYIJIDH0VZfVX7PGo1YJ-ylkZgNR2p5JtUto48s8sSAk59RwD6djxLkQaAimuEALw_wcB

I received part number 11044AA633 from Subaru Parts Deals for my head gaskets. They are steel but don't appear to be triple layered... Is this the right gasket? It's the part number the dealership quoted as superceding all other parts numbers..

Honestly, most of our complaints are part of having a new car. They aren't what they used to be, and we bought this Forester expecting it to still be a Subaru. They just aren't the same. Apart from the oil consumption, which is about 1qt per oil change in a good block, the FB engine has been fine for us. We run very hard (we drive over the Rockies from Denver to Utah 2-3 times a month and are usually loaded down pretty good. It gets good fuel economy even loaded and going over the mountains. Power sucks, but it's a NA Subaru so it is what it is. I personally like the CVT, but 5hey are notoriously weak and prone I failure around 150k. We have changed the CVT fluid once per year (about every 20k) since we got the car in 2017. It has been problem nearly problem free so far.. apart from the two times it didn't adjust ratios and bounced off the rev limiter... Both times were going uphill and passing at 80+mph. Fluid changes require a code reader capable of reading live data. Front differential changes are a nightmare. The vehicle is very capable off-road for it's stance. A good driver will go many places. Parts are expensive, and per a recent interaction with Subaru, parts will begin to be discontinued this year and have generally been difficult to source. Could be COVID fallout as well.

I'm sure it was a bad batch of bearings, but still an issue. Heat has never been a problem for us, the heater works very well. We. Live in Colorado and are frequently. Out in sub zero temperatures. My biggest complaint is the computer controls over engine HP and torque. When the engine is cold, you are a road hazard and can't get out of your own way. It's very annoying because the power is limited regardless of what you do, even in an emergency.

My wife and I have a 2014 Forester. Hands down the worst car we have ever owned. That being said, we probably got a lemon. That being said, Subaru denied our claim on oil consumption, had the dealership replace the block at cost... We had two blocks fail (both rod bearings) within 500 miles. CV axles went out within 80k miles Occupant detection mat went out in passenger seat Driver heated seats went out(havw to replace the entire seat to fix) AC compressor went out in under 100k Radio went out at 40k Neutral safety switch went out And last, but not least, bulkhead Wiring Harness failed (I think the damage was a result from the engine removal). Currently waiting for the CVT to go as we're at 142k, but so far it's been okay... I would buy the 2010.

Yeah...I thought so as well. $6/grommet. The new blue coolant is $40/gallon premixed as well.

Fun facts after visiting Subaru for head bolts: Green coolant is discontinued and no longer available. Valve cover gasket set will run you nearly $200 for two gaskets, 12 grommets, and 4 tube seals.... And... Subaru only guarantees parts for 10 years then they start discontinuing parts.