Daskuppler

We finally got it back from the dealership where they told us they drove it all over the place trying to get the code to come back...they drove a whole 8 miles, but I digress. I got some contact cleaner and pulled the connections off the ECU, cleaned everything up and put it back together. Everything looked fine, except the top connection in the ECU won't snap and lock in. It looks like it should, but won't. I tried using some channel locks to gently push it together and it would slide an extra 1/16th" but went right back to where it was as soon as I let go and would never lock. Could this be the root of the problem? The connector looks like it's together all the way. The car runs fine now, time will tell. From what I read, the TCU should have beenounted right below the ECU but I didn't see anything else there, does anyone know where I might be able to find it to clean the connections there as well?

I agree with pretty much all of that. We live in a throw away society and pretty much everything is crap. My assumption is that all of this equipment is inside the car behind panels and is connected with that single 2 conductor braided wire. It seems like it's highly unlikely the wire went bad being inside the car where things are relatively protected. That leaves the modules I presume there's no real way to figure out where the break in communication is based. On the fact that only certain modules were reachable? I'm assuming that the communication is fairly linear since a bus system requires the signal to pass through one module to the next. It seems like, if you were willing to throw some. Money at it, that you could assume if communication dropped off after, say the TCM, eeither the TCM is bad, or the module immediately following it. I obviously. Don't understand how all of it is setup though.

We bought it with 20k miles on it in May of 2017. 141k on it now. The car was originally sold in Washington, but came from the Midwest before it was traded in at a dealership in Colorado. I don't know how much time it spent in each locale. The car is still relatively rust free apart from the usual suspension parts. It has had its own spot in a garage since we purchased it.

The stealership said there were no hard codes everything was fine so they can't do anything. The CEL was on and the cruise control light was flashing when it went on the tow truck... Is there anyway to troubleshoot it with an intermittent issue and no hard codes?

I don't think we're going to tackle this one, we have an international trip in two weeks. We'll see what the dealership says. Where are these control modules located? The ECM looks like it's about 1k and the TCM looks to be about $600...

Update again: short story... GD was right as usual. Long story:car was good for about 400. Miles, no codes, no problems. Sitting at a stoplight the dash light up like a Christmas tree. All systems turned off, transmission temp flashes, car went into limp mode. Drove it home cooked the code reader up and had two codes. U0073 and u0100 (loss of communication with ECM/TCM). Only engine and transmission codes where available, no other modules were listed or available to scan. U100 was listed as a transmission code, U0073 was on the engine.

I faintly recall seeing some relays in there when I ran the amp wire, but I can't say for sure. There's been very little little moisture in the car and we live in a dry climate, but anything is possible!

Update: after disconnecting the driver's heated seat, the code has not come back after several drive cycles. The bottom heater element has been broken for about a year, maybe it finally degraded to a point where it was causing interference. 🤞

Great article! The issues go far beyond where I thought they stopped! I would assume if you could remove the infotainment system and replace with an aftermarket, you would be fine... but most aren't removable anymore.

Okay, that makes sense. Although annoying. I've heard Optima. Went to spoob, but it was better than store brand crap for almost the same price that wasn't even a sealed battery.

Voltage was at 12.85.volts after a 10 minute drive. With engine off and accessories in(stereo, high beams, blower, and light bar, voltage was 11.91 and dropping .01 volts every 2-3 seconds. This doesn't seem that bad, should it be replaced? Battery charger said it was at 75% charge.

I'll check the battery, thank you. It's 5-6 years old but is an Optima Yellow Top. Does the flashing cruise control light mean anything? Other threads seem to have different lights but the same code. Seems to be a lot with ABS and other brake lights, but still no actual problems.

I take it Path A is a useless price of information? Are all of the modules in the CANBUS, or are only some systems?

I know your opinion of these vehicles. I don't disagree... getting rid of it for a 30k piece of junk is not in the cards. Where do you start troubleshooting? Is there a chance it can be fixed? Can it be replaced outside of a dealership?

Code came back, but no CEL. Freeze frame shows it tripped after 968 seconds at idle.

This code for me was bad head gaskets and I was burning coolant.

No worries, thanks for the advice!

Hello everyone! Me again... yet more problems... 2014 Forester Premium, 141k, with CVT. We took a short drive this morning (90 minutes, 70 miles) and parked the car to wait for the sunrise. When we started the car, the CEL came in and the cruise control light started flashing. There were no driveability issues, but we never got over 20mph. After restarting the car, the CEL was gone and hasn't come back. When I got home, there was one stored code for U0073: control module communication bus A off. Code was cleared, I'll update if it comes back tomorrow. From what I can gather, this is an electrical issue. One forum asked the question of aftermarket accessories installed. I installed a stereo and amp 3 years ago and a light bar over a year ago, no issues until now. No additional modifications beyond LED headlights. Anything I should look at for diagnostics?

I've used some cleaners in the past and it's not changed anything. Maybe I'll try again and let it sit for a while and ride the motorcycle. There's not much rust, but I do live in a snow state so there's likely more than I'm aware of

Hello Everyone, I have a 2002 Impreza TS with approximately 140k in it. For several years now, the fuel gauge has been inaccurate. The gauge shows full and slowly works down as I drive. The low fuel light eventually comes in, but when I fill up, it usually takes around 10 gallons, sometimes it will take 12. I saw a post on NASIOC saying they had used really fine sand paper to sand off corrosion on a couple resistors on the fuel pump assembly, does anyone know if that is the fix for this? Is something else going on? No codes, no driveability issues, and fuel economy is as expected for driving conditions. This is more of a nuisance than anything Cheers

It looks like it had corroded or melted. It wasn't cracked, or brittle. When I touched it kinda sloughed off around the hole, but was still relatively intact beyond that one part.

I had some spare aquarium air hose fittings lying around which happens to be a perfect fit. The Y had disintegrated at the connection for the driver nozzle. Works like a charm. We will see how well it holds up in the cold

Great, thank you! Hopefully the stealership has them for $10 or less per piece 🤣

Hello Everyone, 2014 Forester Premium here. Over the past month or so, the driver side jet has slowly been degrading into a nearly unusable spray pattern. The passenger then started to do the same. I do not see any clogs in the system, fluid reservoir is full, and the pump is working. I did a little bit of research and noticed that the previous generation seems to suffer from connector failures under the cowling. Is this a known issue on the '14-'18 as well? I do notice a small puddle under the driver side on the ground and I can see some fluid inside of the cowling, but I don't know how much of that is fluid running off of the windshield. I'm assuming it slowly failed and the bad spray pattern is due to loss in pressure through a crack or something...I don't even know how that would happen, but it seems to be a thing. I have not had a chance to remove the cowling yet, just seeing if anyone else has had a similar love hat experience with their Subaru. Does anyone else feel like they are introducing themselves to an AA (or similar group) writing these posts? I have posted so much it seems like I have a problem haha

I got the High Performance Gear Oil, it was the only gear oil they sold.