fud24682000

Thanks, but the parking lights are not on, which is OK with me. I can do without them--illegal to drive with them anyway--but I can't risk driving with stop lights that are not functioning properly.

After finding that my stop lights were staying on, I unplugged the connector to the switch, and the lights still stayed on. In the '87-'89 lighting system diagram in Haynes it shows a wire from the stop light switch going to the rectangular "stop light checker" which is grounded. To be able to drive the wagon safely i would like to isolate that wire, which is apparently grounded, and replace it with another one, but-- Where is the "stop light checker" located? Ray Mac

I finally got the switch out with an open end wrench. After disconnecting the plug for the switch there should now be now be an open circuit but the brake lights still stay on. I must have a short somewhere, and don't know how to find it. Ray Mac

No room to get a socket wrench on there. If there was such a thing as a box wrench with a 90 degree bend in the handle, I might have a chance, and maybe I'll have to make one. Ray Mac

Well Ijust dug up this thread to see why my stop lights are staying on. 1988 DL wagon, 4WD, no cruise control to worry about The funny thing is, when I pull the "room/stop" fuse, the stop lights still stay on--unless that's the wrong fuse. After taking a close look, I see the button that moves out of the switch is broken off, so that the switch is on all the time. My Haynes manual says the switch is adjusted or removed by loosening the adjustment nut on the switch, but I can't find any way to get a wrench on the nut. Any suggestions? Ray Mac

I put a can of it in crankcase after partially filling with new oil, then started it. It ran at fast idle until warmed up, & by then the tick had stopped. It did not smoke. Maybe you also poured some in the intake and that made it smoke? Ray Mac

Down here I found it at Autozone. It worked to stop tick in 5 minutes (with oil change to Delo 15W-40 and new filter). Ray Mac

Thanks guys, I'll go out and look when it stops raining. Again, it doesn't misfire, just feels very lean and takes a long time to get up to speed even when I floor it. Ray Mac.

1987 DL SPFI D/R wagon: I got my flashing LED problem cured by disconnectig the green connectors. They had been left that way before I got the vehicle. Also thanks to this forum, I did an oil change with Seafoam and stopped the ticking. I still have the converter rattle and may finally have to spend some money. There's a severe lag on acceleration, slightly better when it's warmed up. Also, when cold, it take a long time to come down to a slow idle from 2000 RPM, but idles fine when warm . There is no misfiring when accelerating, it just acts like it's running very lean, and changing the fuel filter made no difference. Is there a second fuel filter somewhere? Finally, this thread suggested cleaning the TPS contacts, but my Chilton doesn't mention the TPS or tell me where to locate it. Thanks, Ray Mac.

Found the green connectors under the hood had been left connected by the mechanic my daughter had working on it. Disconnected them, and now no more blinking LED. Ray Mac

Instead of stepping on it when you think it's slipping, back off on the gas. Often if there's still a little life left, you may feel it take hold like a lockup clutch. And always feed gas to it gradually once it takes hold. Ray Mac.

'87 GL wagon,D/R: So Gary--the rattle on idle and during deceleration that I have been thinking is in the inside of the cat may be something else rattling? Sure hope so, cheapest new cat I can find is $180+. Ray Mac

Tin Soldier, your uncle sounds like a man after my own heart. Thanks for the vindication. Ray Mac.

Well, if it worked it would mean not having to have a compresser, sprayer, etc. if a guy doesn't have that equipment.

Thanks to alleyboy for the info and the quick reply when I emailed him. I have a related question: years ago a car painting method was advertised where the paint was applied by a pad that was dipped into the paint. The pad had a sort of cloth surface on it and supposedly did not leave brush or swirl marks. Carrying this a step further, has anyone tried painting an area like a hood using a paint roller? Ray Mac

eponodyne, you're a great read. It's great to see the way you turn a phrase. I'm holding my breath too, waiting to hear my tick when it comes back. Ray Mac

A Kragen employee the other day told me they did not carry Sea Foam. Furthermore, he said its only use was for marine applications to deal with rust. I would have bought MMO, but the store was out of that. He said Subaru ticking was due to the boxer engine desgn, and that air-cooled VW's suffered from the same problem. I left at that point, didn't want to deal with his ignorance & get into the HLA issue, etc. with him. Maybe I'll have better luck at Autozone.... Ray Mac.

Thanks Skip. When the weather clears I'll go back out under the tree and see if my connectors are already connected like happened to Pokie, and do the continuity bit. You may have saved it a trip to the wrecker. Then if I can just get rid of the rattle in the converter..... Ray Mac

Craven, will the Enco Grade B slab be good enough or is it wise to get the Grade A? First project for me will be on a Rabbit diesel head. Thanks. Ray Mac.

Pokie, I had the same problem, CEL flashed 6 times, then again and again. I went through All the code information on this site and the subaru 18 site, never did find any 2 connectors under dash or under the hood that would plug into each other on my '87 GL wagon. I used mirror, turned every which way to look, no dice. Hope you have better luck. Mine now sits in my back yard, next stop is the boneyard. I will say that thanks to the help I got from this site, I did manage to get the ticking to stop! Ray Mac

My '88 DL has A/C and an engine-driven fan besides the electric fan. Maybe removing that would free up some power if you have the same setup as mine. Ray Mac

Ok, I have to admit I have only tried the one on Stockton Blvd. in the Sacto area. No snow, but plenty wet this weekend. Ray Mac

There are 6 Pick-n-Pulls within 60 miles of me but unfortunately they don't have many Subarus. Ray Mac

So Rislone or MMO or Seafoam can just be put in with the oil change and run continuously without causing other damage or problems? Ray Mac

1987 GL, SPFI again. The oil & filter change quieted the HLA noise, but the oil turned black right away, so will do a couple more oil changes while I'm still ahead of the game. My son came up for Thanksgiving and to help with codes, and-- All I could get with key on & engine off, following the book, was 6 flashes, repeated, from the ECM. He suggested starting the engine, and I got 31,33 and 51, but only after the engine was warmed up a bit, and not until I revved it above 3000. At that point the CEL came on, and the codes started flashing for me. After an hour I started the engine again and this time got 32 along with the other codes. Then tried to disconnect plug to throttle sensor to check on 31, thinking I'd see if there was a bad connection, but it would not pull off. Is there a trick to it? I didn't want to pull too hard and wreck something. Wanted to check that one first in case it was the connection, it seemed the easiest one to start with. Ray Mac