Beladona_13

Heater cores on these aren't too difficult, the hard part was finding the right core! Oreillýs, Baxter, Carquest, and Autozone all have incorrect part # listed. I used Murray # 94792, one of the tubes was incorrect. I had the radiator shop sweat the old tube from my old core off and install it in place of the wrong tube on the new core. Cost me a total of $115.00 in parts / service. Aside from all of that, I agree with raising the front end. Has been the only way to get it done right on the last few Legacys and Imprezas I've done.

Found the trouble. FSM showed me that the wire that was giving me hell also supplied power to the lights in the original radio. It had been tucked behind the steel skeleton of the dash and I had inadvertently moved it when I was reinstalling the dash. The endo f the clipped wire welded itself tho the inner structure and was making life miserable. I deloomed, extracted, and rewrapped the offending wire, no more issues!

Been through every bolt... dash is out again, no pinched wires... I know, I know... but now I know which wire is causing the issue.

Factory timing spec is 8* BTDC. 15 degrees is way advanced for base timing. Still running the vacuumdizzy?

I just replaced the heater core on this '86 GL EA82 carbureted wagon. Start up, warm up, thermostat opening, all went well. I turned on the park lights to better see the temp gauge, POP! No dash lights, tail lamps, or license plate lamp. Replaced fuse, POP! replaced with 25 amp circuit breaker, smoke. I pulled the power before anything got serious;y damaged ( I Hope). I have already ordered the electrical section of my FSM to complete my set. But I was hoping someone might have a diagram for the lighting on this car as it will be a few days before the manual gets here. Anyone? Already tried Google, and Autozone.com...

Okay, this is my first time tearing into an EA81. I've got an '82 Brat that hasn't moved since '06. I finally have it running, but the valves all seem tight. My trouble is this; I can't for the life of me figure out which valves are which. I've been looking at pics and scouring manuals for the answer. This 20 minute job is eating up my evening. Input please! Cheers! Christin

This is what I use when assembling Subaru's... http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/subaru-fuji-bond-sealer.html The Grey stuff is made by Subaru for sealing the Cam Towers. it was a piece of this stuff that I found plugging the galley. I'm not sure if I got sloppy when I assembled it last time, or if it was a piece I missed when cleaning parts. Who knows, any way, it's fixed! Took a minute for the HLA's to pump up, but it's quiet as a mouse now! :banana:Next week I look into the front oil seal leak, I'd do it now, but the car needs to back in service yesterday.

Here is the pic I promised of the brass orifice in the galley that feeds oil to the HLA's. Here is a pic of the hunk of silicone sealant I found wedged in the orifice! Now for reassembly! I'll report back after I get it running again...

I've been running Coopers since 1995. Best buy for the buck IMHO! I believe the Lifeliner is the 80,000 mile tire?

If the newer one looks identical to the one that should be there physically, and the plugs fit the sockets, then all you need is a wiring diagram for the newer car. You may have to move some of the wires around in their pin locations, good luck!

When I replaced the head gaskets two weeks ago, while I had the engine on the bench I installed a fresh Micky mouse seal, Large O ring, and a shaft seal. It would seem I still have a leak in that same area though as I have oil dripping from my timing covers. I'm thinking I may just replace the pump and slap in a new front crank seal while I'm at it. I just got back from a 2 hour round trip to get a replacement Cam Tower for the drivers side. I See that the galley that feeds the HLA's has a very small brass port where it seats against the head. I'm thinking this may be plugeed in my current tower... I'll report back tomorrow.

So it looks like I'm going to drive out to the local Subaru nuts place and pick up a replacement cam tower. Tomorrow I'll rip the old cam tower off, pull the HLA's and blow out the oil galleys with compressed air. Then I'll install the new cam tower, new case o ring, and button everything up again and see if I get oil pressure. Wish me luck!

So, I've been lurking this forum for quite a while, and found lots of very useful information. I've never had occasion to post as I always find the answers I need right away using the search feature, but now I've got an odd issue that I could use some input on. I'm currently working on a friends 1991 Loyale Wagon with the EA82 tbi engine. I had both heads rebuilt a few weeks ago, and everything has been fine up until now. All of the HLA's started rattling, so he brought it by for me to look at. After some sleuthing I found a little sliver of what looks like aluminum in the passenger side oil pressure relief valve (the one in the cam tower). I went so far as to crank the engine, flushing any other bits out, and replaced the valve and spring with new ones from Subaru. I started the engine, Pass. side appears to have quieted, so I started the same process on the drivers side. I pulled the spring and valve out of the recess in the driver side cam tower, and had an assistant crank the engine for me, no oil came out of the hole where the relief valve goes! I had my assistant continue cranking, I get oil out of the camshaft lobe holes, but none to my HLA's or the pressure relief valve. According to my Subaru Manual for an '87 XT coupe, the oil comes from the crank case and the galley splits. One passage leads to the cam case, and one passage goes to the HLA's and then on to the relief valve. Here is my question, Where is my blockage/ failure? Do I have a plugged Galley? If so, where? Is it in the head? HELP!