derekemery

while waiting for the replacement temp control assembly to come in, another problem has come up. driving down the road yesterday the fuel gauge starting falling toward empty, coming back up, falling again, and up again, but rarely staying accurate (i just filled the car up the day before this started). somehow it seems to work in the morning on the way to work alright, but in the afternoon on the drive home it is completely erratic. i have the temp control assembly unplugged from the dash. this is the ONLY thing i have done to the car lately. I want to think its related somehow, and not the fuel sending unit going bad at the same time as these other problems. ideas?

not insulted, and i get what a continuity test does. i meant, how do you perform the continuity test on the switch itself? where on the switch itself should i be touching the probes to do the test. pardon my ignorance, i get some of the basic concepts, but i've never done it before so i'm trying to gather info before i go get a meter and test away.

continuity can be checked, just via multimeter?

ordered climate control assembly from junkyard in MASS. will update when it comes in and is installed. thanks for all the tips folks!

i'll give this a shot. also, which relay is for the climate control? i have looked at them all (under dash and under hood) and none are labeled as climate control, or fan, or anything. is it somewhere separate from the other relays??

yes, the fan speed selector (sliding type) was literally stuck on the #4 setting one morning after working as intended the evening before. i shoved the fan speed slider out of this stuck position but its still not working and doesn't slide like it is supposed to. i took the temperature control unit out of the dash to look and see if there was some coffee or something in there, and there really isn't. i'm searching now for a used one at a junk yard but it seems hard to find.

if this is the case, where can the assembly be had from? i cant seem to find one.

OK. so i dove into it this weekend. took the resistor out of my wifes 96 outback (in which the fan works) and plugged it into my car. still no fan. took the blower itself out of my car and plugged it into my wifes car and it worked fine. so its not the blower motor resistor, and its not the fan that doesn't work in my car....its the switch itself??? as far as i can understand, thats the last remaining item that could be the culprit. however, other than junkyards (which i haven't checked yet), i can't seem to find the assembly online or in parts stores. any advice on what it might be other than the fan switch on the dashboard? if the problem were the resistor, the fan would work on #4 setting - which it isn't. when the problem arose one morning the fan switch inside the car was STUCK on the #4 setting and there was no fan at all. the night before the fan was working 100% fine. ideas?

thanks for the tip, i'll check it out. i had been using the heater fan daily from november until mid february when it quit. worked like a charm. however, i'd prefer it be a simple solution like you mention.

The fan does not work on 4 or any other speed. zero fan action.

Thanks all. The blower motor resistor is behind the glove box in a 97 correct?? That's what I've read elsewhere.

Hello everyone. New to the MB, couldn't find an answer for my troubles. I have a 97 OBS 2.2 5speed with 197k. This winter i went to the car to go to work in the AM and there was no heat (there had been the night before). The fan does not work, and the fan switch is stuck on #4 setting (high:Flame:). After a while of driving i can feel some transient heat coming out of the vents, but not enough to heat the car. I have checked fuses, although I cant tell which fuse is actually for the heater motor/etc. thinking the fan switch mechanism may just be blown? is there a relay under the hood that i should be checking or replacing? tired of the frosty drives. thanks